Jump to content

Door ajar

205harleyman
 Share

Recommended Posts

205harleyman New Member

205harleyman

Posted
Posted

Got oil change yesterday, after that it tells me drivers door open, interior lights work, windows do not let down from drivers control, but will on other doors from their switch, and horn doesn’t blow when locking doors with remote.

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

74Sprint17SierraATX
74Sprint17SierraATX

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cu

ram1067
ram1067

damn proverbial  "ever since" you change the oil........  

kmyndiuk
kmyndiuk

Update on mine. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the door and did a continuity test. The green/yellow wire seemed to be an issue. Circuit 6134 Which is the linear interconnect network (commun

Posted Images

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

If im not mistaken the drivers window switch is like a small module and has a logic internal to it that also controls the door ajar message to the cluster. This thing may just need the window switch. Only saying because I ran into this before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Justin101714 Enthusiast

Justin101714

Posted
Posted

Okay, I verified with a schematic, the drivers door ajar message is controlled through the window motor, the motor has an internal logic that control this message from the BCM to the IPC. Get the motor changed, it should fix it.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

c0d1d7960558bc078c2975b963ba7a19.jpg

  • 3 months later...
singleup New Member

singleup

Posted
Posted

Just had this happen to my 2014 silverado (102,000 miles) but on the rear drivers side door (crew cab).  had to flip my dome light switch to off as it stayed on ciontunously.  dismiss the warning on the dash every time i start the truck, the horn does not sound when remote locking nor do the headlights flash.  Upon dealer diagnostics they found the wiring harness to be damaged inside the sheath with four broken wires after taking the door panel off.  (door ajar warning, lights and horn not working on remote lock, and also that the power window would not roll down)

$148 for the diagnostics and going to be another $250ish for the repair when they can get the wiring harness.  GM is currently out of stock.  Hmmmm?  sounds like i may not be the only one.

The door switch itself is fine.

Hope this helps others with the grief I experienced.

  • 4 weeks later...
Smittyrules99 New Member

Smittyrules99

Posted
Posted

Hi

On 2018-06-28 at 6:39 PM, singleup said:

Just had this happen to my 2014 silverado (102,000 miles) but on the rear drivers side door (crew cab).  had to flip my dome light switch to off as it stayed on ciontunously.  dismiss the warning on the dash every time i start the truck, the horn does not sound when remote locking nor do the headlights flash.  Upon dealer diagnostics they found the wiring harness to be damaged inside the sheath with four broken wires after taking the door panel off.  (door ajar warning, lights and horn not working on remote lock, and also that the power window would not roll down)

$148 for the diagnostics and going to be another $250ish for the repair when they can get the wiring harness.  GM is currently out of stock.  Hmmmm?  sounds like i may not be the only one.

The door switch itself is fine.

Hope this helps others with the grief I experienced.

Hi singleup, I have a 2014 1500 High Country with 168,000 kms on it, giving me the exact same problem. Are you referring to the wiring harness located in the accordion style boot between the door and the frame of the cab? 

Or is this only accessible by taking the door panel off? 

Really would rather not go to the dealership on this any info would be a great help.

 

Thanks

singleup New Member

singleup

Posted
Posted

That’s where the wires were either broken or the sheathing was exposed.  After looking at the old harness, I think that the wires could have been soldered or taped up if still in tact.  Not sure how they get or got pinched through that boot but that was definitely the problem area.  It’s a big harness so if you can get at it through that area, you might have a shot at it.  Researched for a long time with no answer and hope this helps.  Good luck.

Smittyrules99 New Member

Smittyrules99

Posted
Posted (edited)

Okay thanks, won’t be able to get this apart for about 3 weeks, stuck in camp and don’t have the proper tools with me. 

Once I get working on this will keep the thread updated of a solution.

 

Thanks

Edited by Smittyrules99
jagabom (Esquire) Enthusiast

jagabom (Esquire)

Posted
Posted

I had an older car about 30 years ago.  Was having problems with windows and other things.  Turned out the wires in the drivers door were all in a state of disrepair.  Some were broken, some had a few strands broken, some just had the insulation cracked.  Redid all wires and problems were gone. 

Jim

CYWG

  • 3 weeks later...
kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did this get resolved? My 2015 is having the same issue. Checked the harness and power seems to be getting to both the switch and the window motor.

 

Also I swapped the switches out for the ones from a buddies truck. No change.

 

Help please.

Edited by kmyndiuk
  • 2 weeks later...
Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
On 2018-03-10 at 8:26 AM, 205harleyman said:

Got oil change yesterday, after that it tells me drivers door open, interior lights work, windows do not let down from drivers control, but will on other doors from their switch, and horn doesn’t blow when locking doors with remote.

 

Hi, I am having the same issue in 2015 1500, did this issue with your door get fixed? What was the cause? Thank you

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
On 2018-08-13 at 3:52 PM, kmyndiuk said:

Did this get resolved? My 2015 is having the same issue. Checked the harness and power seems to be getting to both the switch and the window motor.

 

Also I swapped the switches out for the ones from a buddies truck. No change.

 

Help please.

 

Did you end up fixing or finding out the cause for this problem? Thank you 

kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Chevy9 said:

 

Did you end up fixing or finding out the cause for this problem? Thank you 

Have a new power window motor on its way. Hopefully get it replaced on Saturday, will update then.

Edited by kmyndiuk
spelling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Somethingclever_2014GM
      A/C failure cause???

      By Somethingclever_2014GM · Posted

      Glad it worked for you. I tried that 1st, about 2 years ago. Didn't help. I also tried doing a hard reset (disconnecting battery for minimum of 30 minutes). Worked a couple times, but after one summer of doing it over and over, that no longer worked.  I was fairly confident it was either the compressor or a failed actuator, but I just couldn't identify which one. Had to research which actuators do what and which last numbers are associated with each.
    • Jsdirt
      Gas Prices

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Took me FIFTEEN MINUTES to find this. Isn't that a problem? On the mainstream media I can INSTANTLY find 100 articles bashing President Trump ... but when it comes to TRUTH in American corporate news & search engines, it's carefully filtered to support ONE SIDE. A Republic cannot survive like this! Incredible! Even all the AI searchers out there failed as well! ChatGPT said it needed more details on the video that I provided a DIRECT LINK to! I thought AI was the be-all, end-all?? I had to dig it up myself. This should be FRONT PAGE NEWS!!! 🤬   Here's the statement directly from our President:     Glenn Beck's reporting on the operation:   https://glennbeck.com/watch/videos/trump-just-revealed-a-massive-military-secret-that-lowered-gas-prices   In case that link doesn't work, here's the YouTube link:     And another 15 minutes to find this clip out of Glenn Beck's video - the first few seconds is all the corporate media will allow the public to see, since the low IQ people will think Trump said " I love inflation ", and that was the end of it. Taken WAY out of context! Here's that part, plus the 2nd part about the oil smuggling operation:  
    • KARNUT
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By KARNUT · Posted

      More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...