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Posted
12 minutes ago, bndawgs said:

Not yet. I haven't had a chance to mess with my truck lately.  I went with a mictuning 32" led from Amazon.  I caught it on sale for $35.  

 

If I think of it, I'm going to try and call Rough Country this week to see about ordering their mounting kit.  That looks to be the best option besides a diy route. 

on your 32" bar what's the depth ??? I had a single bar 31 L X 2 H X 3 D , NO room to mount it .between grill / shutters, maybe your bar is smaller ?

Posted
1 minute ago, slj2008 said:

on your 32" bar what's the depth ??? I had a single bar 31 L X 2 H X 3 D , NO room to mount it .between grill / shutters, maybe your bar is smaller ?

I'd have to measure it when I get home. Unless the Amazon link gives the depth.   I don't have shutters, but when doing a dry fit I didn't notice any fitment issues. 

Posted
On 1/19/2020 at 7:01 PM, Phlash said:

My hat is off to Tinkering Fox and Phil Gamboa. The video is fantastic.  I have a 2018 Sierra SLT and ordered the switch and made the harness (sorry Phil).  At first it didn't work, nothing coming out of the X5:5 BCM connector and no indicator light on the instrument panel.  After checking continuity I found that I had to reorient my new X1:12 connector.  I had to turn it 180 degrees in the X1 (white) plug.  Evidently it wasn't making good contact with the BCM pin.  Once I did this, everything works like it should.  If you have issues, check for continuity at each connector.  You can check continuity on the ground (-) signals with you multimeter.  The yellow wire in Tinkering Fox's drawing X5:5 is a +12v signal.  Keep in mind that the BCM triggers (turns on) with a ground, not a positive voltage. I also installed an interposing momentary relay for the high beams to interupt the power to the off road light, so there is no delay in killing my lightbar when meeting oncoming traffic.  I would still like to know how Tinkering Fox knows what functions are in the factory BCM programming and the pin placements.  I can't find any of this information in the Upfitters guides.  Great job guys!

Would the interposing momentary relay work in conjunction with the automatic high beams? I’m interested in being able to have the light bar shut off when the headlights dim and then have to reactivate manually. 

Posted

That is why I did that.  I used a "Tap a Fuse" to tap into one of the high beam cicuits in the underhand fusebox to power the coil on the momentary relay with the power for the lightbar circuit routed through the contacts and then on to the lightbar.  It is pretty simple. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Wow!  What a huge and informative post!  Very nice!  I'm looking to buy a blue switch, preferably the new 84168423 version - I'm in Canada.  Is there anyone still looking to sell theirs? PM me if you have something.  Thanks again for the great info.

Posted (edited)

I got my oem orl switch installed. Didn't get the light bar installed because I ordered the wrong one. Just my luck. Anyway, I was messing with the switch to make sure it activated the in-dash indicator light. I noticed the orl wouldn't turn on unless I turned on the fog lights. I was wondering if this is normal? I haven't read anything about that happening in my research. On the plus side I just have to tap the fog light button to turn both lights off instead of holding the orl for 2 seconds. Update: looks like that is when the headlights are off.

Edited by webcruzzer
update
Posted (edited)

Just ordered my OEM switch as I couldn't find one avail online - $170CA !!! A far cry from the $25USD listed at the start of this in 2018!  Looking fwd to the final product though.

Edited by Stroodle
Posted
Just ordered my OEM switch as I couldn't find one avail online - $170CA !!! A far cry from the $25USD listed at the start of this in 2018!  Looking fwd to the final product though.

The $25 one was from an eBay seller that has a surplus of these. The retail price for the newer version is around $90-$125 USD.


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  • Like 1
Posted

I'm just late to the party!  Oh well, I want to make it look as clean and factory as possible, so I'll wait for my switch to come into the local GM dealership.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I finally did it. Took all day, what a pain to take the front front grille off and modify for the shutters. Pics to follow when it’s light outside. 

Posted

Photographic evidence for proof. It’s not a UV light but it’ll probably kill some retinas. This is exactly the setup that I wanted, huge thanks to pgamboa, tinkeringfox, and other who did this and figured it out before I took a crack at it. I also got to assess the full extent of the damage from the deer I hit two years ago (two months after I bought the truck). It seems other than a cracked grille I also broke the lower mounting brackets for the grille, looks like I would have to replace the whole radiator support/shroud to fix. Also looks like a big pain in the rear.  Anyone have experience with that? 4F9AE4D6-121C-418A-B4FA-41AB5D744142.jpeg.5c0b56040f3e6e0d809a4a5f05620aae.jpeg7D1466AA-3B93-4720-8881-818A31F3050A.jpeg.e4576d8f8a3d2ec269bb8b19356a5e67.jpeg56EF8579-F33D-4C4B-8737-E1AA5E7DBB20.jpeg.bfe74c2cd6d2788e379f36d414c6efaf.jpeg879CF935-9377-4791-9033-347D72A82B61.jpeg.ea1917ff70d984fba762f74eeb7866ce.jpeg

7CEB1641-B05E-4D1A-B1A5-9910B7F45783.jpeg

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