Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Awesome!! Thank the both of you. I know its hard with everyday life, but to do this stuff to help others is over the top.

  • Like 2
Posted
Is this 14 and 15 specific? I’m working on a project for a light bar on my 2018. Will the ORL switch work with your harness Phil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the installation documentation of the ORL lights, it suggests that BCMs on 14-15 may not be programmed to output the latched signal and on 16+ it is. There is another member here with a 2018 who reported it didn’t work.

For those that bought the switch, my harness, and tried with no luck... be patient as we might have an alternate solution using this relay.

I’ll even work out a deal to discount this “kit” (once ready) for those that bought my harness and had no luck with it. This is new territory for all of us and have no way to test without the help of all of you to report your findings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

So don’t get rid of your switch :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, pgamboa said:


In the installation documentation of the ORL lights, it suggests that BCMs on 14-15 may not be programmed to output the latched signal and on 16+ it is. There is another member here with a 2018 who reported it didn’t work.

For those that bought the switch, my harness, and tried with no luck... be patient as we might have an alternate solution using this relay.

I’ll even work out a deal to discount this “kit” (once ready) for those that bought my harness and had no luck with it. This is new territory for all of us and have no way to test without the help of all of you to report your findings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So Phil and TinkeringFox:

 

Will you be supplying a complete kit (switch, harness, relay)?  Or will you also offer a harness and relay for those of us that already have a switch but didn't buy your harness yet?

 

This is great -- thanks for the work!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, sk said:

So Phil and TinkeringFox:

 

Will you be supplying a complete kit (switch, harness, relay)?  Or will you also offer a harness and relay for those of us that already have a switch but didn't buy your harness yet?

 

This is great -- thanks for the work!

The switch should be sourced on your own, based on the color scheme you want.  We want this kit to be as Plug and Play as possible and/or be simple to hook up.

 

I will most likely be building the kits while Tinkering Fox will have the how to video for hooking it up.

 

Thanks,

 

Edited by pgamboa
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

The switch should be sourced on your own, based on the color scheme you want.  We want this kit to be as Plug and Play as possible and/or be simple to hook up.

 

I will most likely be building the kits while Tinkering Fox will have the how to video for hooking it up.

 

Thanks,

 

DIBS!!!!!

Posted
Awesome!! Thank the both of you. I know its hard with everyday life, but to do this stuff to help others is over the top.

Agreed!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted

I installed the switch and harness from pgamboa in my 17 1500. At 1st the switch's amber light wouldn't light up and the dash light wouldn't illuminate either. Double checked all my wiring and the grey wire that connects to the white bcm plug wasn't fully seated. Heard the "click" when I reinstalled the wire. Now everything works as it should. Haven't wired up a light bar yet, but the switch and the light on the dash both light up. So guys that are having intermittent issues with your switch double check your wiring. Just a heads up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
I installed the switch and harness from pgamboa in my 17 1500. At 1st the switch's amber light wouldn't light up and the dash light wouldn't illuminate either. Double checked all my wiring and the grey wire that connects to the white bcm plug wasn't fully seated. Heard the "click" when I reinstalled the wire. Now everything works as it should. Haven't wired up a light bar yet, but the switch and the light on the dash both light up. So guys that are having intermittent issues with your switch double check your wiring. Just a heads up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



Good tip! Also check the face of the plug to verify is seated all the way forward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

Seapacer, I got my relay installed. Doesnt work unless i push the button on the relay. But the ORL  on the headlight switch does come on.  Nothing happens if i just press the headlight switch.

Posted (edited)

Ok, so yesterday i got and wired in the relay that Seapacer2 posted about except Igot the 2 channel relay. It didnt work as of last night. Today i came out and traced down the problem to the gray wire down to where the BCM is.  I used that gray wire to hook into the relay. Somewhere in that wire, there is a break. I ran a new gray wire up to the switch. BAM!!! Works perfectly. To turn it on, its a simple press of the ORL button. To turn it off, again, just a simple push of the ORL button. There is no long press needed. The icon on the dash does NOT light up, but the ORL button on the headlight switch DOES light up.

 

THANK YOU TO SEAPACER2 FOR HELPING ME OUT!!!

Edited by RACERX7775
  • Like 1
Posted

Also, depending on how you give the relay power depends on when it will come on. For test purposes, i hooked it up to one of the 10a spare fuses in the l/s inside the door. Its constant power. So the ORL works anytime. No lights have to be on. 

Posted

So here is just a final confirmation for those with 14+ trucks that this little relay assembly works perfectly.

20181025_173421.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If I did have the switch with ORL and i switched #6 & #10, would the fog lights come on when i push the ORL button and the aux light when i push the fog light button?  I am trying to be able to turn off a LED light bar quicker than holding the ORL button for an extended time.  Not as worried about turning fog lights off quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You have to have the last word. 
    • I am sure that was quite the pass experience and not a great place to experience during the winter when the conditions are not good. I've seen video of that pass and also more detailed information and pictures about the wrecks at that one hair pin turn where tractor trailers have flown right off the cliff and I am sure from all the warning signs that you know the exact curve that was !. After all there is a reason why a song was made about Wolf Creek Pass !. By the way and I didn't realize this either when I bought my truck as its nothing I even thought of that would be programmed into the cruise control and this occurs in either the basic or the more advanced cruise that controls your distance behind a vehicle and that is the brakes going down a hill are being applied as soon as the vehicle goes a certain speed over the set cruise speed. While it certainly does force downshifts in the transmission as you found out with cruise on while going down hill, its also dragging the brakes as needed to keep the speed controlled to what the cruise was set to. For me, I find that unsettling simply because I have no concept then as to how MUCH brake input is being used a and just how hot are those brakes getting and the wear factor as well. I can see that system getting a person into trouble on long mountain grades while pulling a trailer as it would not only be standing on the brakes of the pickup without any driver input, it would also be automatically applying the trailer brakes and it could cause a run away unit by overheating the brakes. Its one thing on a shorter hill and if the driver allows it to do its thing but on a long mountain grade is where things could get so out of hand. As someone a while back on this forum said, they had someone following them at night I believe on a down grade and had the cruise set and the person behind them could see the brake lights being energized all the way down the hill. I figured when I saw your comment that you didn't know and would have no way of knowing that your truck was applying the brakes and that you would and rightfully so assume you only used the brakes when you pressed on the pedal to slow down more than the cruise set speed for the slower sharp curves. So its good knowledge to know this about the newer GM trucks, certainly when doing any descending on long mountain grades. In the future try kicking off the cruise and use the the manual mode on a pass to see what that is like as I know myself when I first experienced it I thought no way can this engine be holding me back this well and tried the same hill in manual mode and sure enough the engine was revving way up and still could not hold the trucks speed down like it could in cruise mode.    Fuel mileage, that is where a really low sleek type of car can do better at higher speeds, certainly it starts sucking fuel too but a tall pickup is pushing massive amounts of air and also allowing a lot more air under it and the tow mirrors as in elephant ears pushing through the wind  as well. Driving like grandpa is about as good as one can do when driving one of these if trying to get the best fuel economy they can. I bet these trucks would get the best mileage they can if driven on a freeway in Florida if not busy traffic at a sedate speed and that sea level elevation without hills, vastly different then Colorado !. 
    • It’s over for almost 24 hours. Are you playing Eddie Haskell? 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...