Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Curious on any cold air intakes anyone has put on their pickup and seen better gas mileage and hp? Also if an aftermarket throttle body spacer?

2015 Chevy Silverado 5.3

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I installed the K&N cold air kit on my 2015 Denali. Noticed a little better mileage. You will hear the intake noise as well, slightly annoying in 4 cylinder mode and low rpms.

Posted

Before and after with k&n intake.  Truck was better performing, but not much difference in mpg if any.  Been on my truck for 2 years now.

IMG_20160515_091050538.jpg

IMG_20160515_103059962.jpg

Posted

Just took the K & N off mine (drop in) when UOA showed it wasn't filtering as it should. A filter needs to filter first. No it wasn't damaged and yes it was sealed. I've used them for about 40 years. Just never looked at the oil that hard before. 

Posted
42 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Tb spaceris a waste. 

yup, if something so small really helped, GM would have just made the intake that much longer. 

Posted

Your stock air box is sealed against under-hood hot air.  You can open up the fender opening of that box for more air intake for free.  The box-to-manifold tube can be replaced with an AirAid MIT and a dry replacement filter for smoother air flow and some "growl", if that's your thing.  Oiled filters may mess up your MAF.

 

 

 

 

100_0209.jpg

Posted
15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Just took the K & N off mine (drop in) when UOA showed it wasn't filtering as it should. A filter needs to filter first. No it wasn't damaged and yes it was sealed. I've used them for about 40 years. Just never looked at the oil that hard before. 

What numbers were looking bad? Silicon? I have a k&n in the wife's RAV4 and now my truck just for the ease of cleaning and re-using. I've also used them for many years without issue but never did an UOA. Any chance you could post it up for us? Thanks man

Posted

Grumpy,

Post up the numbers that had you concerned enough to remove your K&N drop in.

I have used them for years.

I know nothing about UOA's.

 

:)

Posted

From the UOA's that individuals have run K&N air filters on, I have seen where the silicon has gone up do to the air filter not filtering out like it should.  Terry Dyson at dysonanalysis had hard data on this issue.  He sees where the K&N works just fine but then there are the ones where the silicon is high on UOA's running K&N air filters.  One just can't tell until they run a used oil analysis.

 

You also get issues if you do not oil it correctly to get a fine oil film on your mass air flow sensor.  So if you do run a K&N it is a good idea to get some cleaner made to clean the MAS each time you clean your air filter.

Posted
1 hour ago, batman900 said:

What numbers were looking bad? Silicon? I have a k&n in the wife's RAV4 and now my truck just for the ease of cleaning and re-using. I've also used them for many years without issue but never did an UOA. Any chance you could post it up for us? Thanks man

 

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Grumpy,

Post up the numbers that had you concerned enough to remove your K&N drop in.

I have used them for years.

I know nothing about UOA's.

 

:)

Sorry guys I wasn't following this thread so I saw it when it popped back up in the "Popular Now" area. 

 

11 ppm silicon and 24 copper. Dyson noted that the silicon is about double 'acceptable normal' for a daily driver and that copper "could be in part' abrasive wear of rod big end AND/OR reactive chemistry. 5-7 ppm is the silicon target. Silicon is also part of many antifoam additives so getting to zero is near impossible. Hope that is helpful. 

 

PS. I also had a mild fuel rich condition which traced to 'dust' on the MAF sensor. The filter on visual inspection looked okay but there were what could be called small, micro tears here and there almost like the weave wasn't tamped  during manufacture. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Thanks.

Interesting.

I have used K&N's for a lot of years.

 

:)

X2. I was as surprised as anyone. I have them on everything they make them for. I'd still use them if I was still racing or I would find a way to double up on ACDelco element. We use to stack two back in the day. Lord I'm getting old :lol:

 

I would have loved that link more if the advertising didn't take away about a quarter of every graph. I ever mention I hate GREED! :fume::fume:

Posted
19 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Sorry guys I wasn't following this thread so I saw it when it popped back up in the "Popular Now" area. 

 

11 ppm silicon and 24 copper. Dyson noted that the silicon is about double 'acceptable normal' for a daily driver and that copper "could be in part' abrasive wear of rod big end AND/OR reactive chemistry. 5-7 ppm is the silicon target. Silicon is also part of many antifoam additives so getting to zero is near impossible. Hope that is helpful. 

 

PS. I also had a mild fuel rich condition which traced to 'dust' on the MAF sensor. The filter on visual inspection looked okay but there were what could be called small, micro tears here and there almost like the weave wasn't tamped  during manufacture. 

confused.

Where is the silicon coming from?

 

:)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...