Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Mine is US built as well, I'm curious now if mine is going to leak. .   I wonder if one supplier was covering both the US and Mexico trucks?  I thought I heard somewhere it was caused by not enough sealant when they were installed but I could be wrong.  I've seen rear windows removed before and it was always just a rubber gasket. 

Posted

The dealer told me that they had to put a new rear window assembly in because the old one had tiny cracks.  Others have said that was the case with them as well.  I know that the dealership first tried to reseal my window and that didn't work.

  • Like 1
Posted

My truck is US built.

 

First attempt at fixing it my dealer removed and re-set the window. I also called GM customer service and got a case number. Still leaked.

 

Second attempt, my dealer removed the spoiler piece that overhangs the window and re-sealed it. Was told GM would not sign off on a replacement window. Also called GM customer service and had someone assigned to my case. Still leaked.

 

I sent an e-mail to GM's North American VP explaining my situation. The following day I had a phone call from GM Executive customer service rep. Long story short, my window was finally replaced. The dealer said that they found a hairline crack in my old window.

 

I just got it back on Saturday. I hope it's finally water tight. Hasn't rained yet though.

 

Still love the truck but it's been a very frustrating two months that is hopefully behind me.

Posted

From February 1st:

 

Quote

 

#18-NA-383: Water Found in Rear Interior of Cab, Water Leak at Rear Sliding Window - (Feb 1, 2019)

 

WINDOW RR-FULL WIDTH, SLIDING, POWER (A48)

 

Customer may comment on finding water in the rear interior of the cab.

 

The cause of the condition may be cracking in the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide. The plastic upper rail glass guide may develop small fractures/cracking which allows water to pass through on the glass side of the urethane that attaches to the vehicle body.

 

Note: The cracks can be in the left and/or right side of the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide which is covered by the roof rear spoiler. Examples of a left (1), then right side (2) visual crack (with the spoiler removed) are shown in the graphics above.

 

R & R the roof rear spoiler and apply seam sealer to the rear sliding window top encapsulate, following the steps in the Service Procedure below.

 

Important: When verifying this condition, ensure that the water leak path is due to cracks in the rear sliding window plastic upper rail glass guide, and NOT a leak in the primary urethane seal, between the window and the body.

A leak in the primary urethane seal should be addressed by removing and resealing the window, using the standard service procedure from SI.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

That's nice now people have something to print ajd take to the dealer with them. I'm only dealing with the knock sensors and typical lower door and wheel well rust in my 04 Tahoe so far. This all started after 100k miles so I'm still getting along good. No water leaks though. [emoji23][emoji23]

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I may have missed it when reading through all posts, but have any solid rear windows been found to leak? my 2014 had the power sliding rear and would have a few drops make their way in center of the sliding section during high pressure washes, but less than 10% of the time. not bad enough to think twice about. I now have a 19 trail boss with the solid rear window and curious if anyone with the same window has found any leaks. Ive had the truck for 2 weeks now and its been far too cold here in ND for any liquid form of h2o ha.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Mine started to leak right after it shattered for some odd reason. Wife and I were heading to dinner, when the rear passenger side glass shattered. No clue why.7b0d9040c9475766649a44448bbe0776.jpgbd43220a257dee7eed69c5fabc26e491.jpgb0181110b67af5f1c14b7b6a40f35408.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Posted

Damn, that sucks. It does happen a lot more than you’d think though. I didn’t know anything about this phenomenon until it happened to my dad’s Cadillac.

 

 Sometimes a latent defect or chip in the glass from installation will just “go off”. In this case though, I would bet that a poorly fitting frame probably over-stressed the glass in some way. Given the amount of back window issues these trucks have had, hopefully GM will take care of it for you.

Posted
Mine started to leak right after it shattered for some odd reason. Wife and I were heading to dinner, when the rear passenger side glass shattered. No clue why.7b0d9040c9475766649a44448bbe0776.jpgbd43220a257dee7eed69c5fabc26e491.jpgb0181110b67af5f1c14b7b6a40f35408.jpg

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


Did you read through the thread on exploding rear windows? Sounds the same. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/209824-2017-sierra-denali-rear-window-exploded/
Posted
On 1/28/2019 at 1:26 PM, GMC-AT said:

You can always go buy a Ford or Dodge since they are perfect and have zero issues... oh wait every 2019 RAM is being recalled now. https://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/chrysler/2019/01/25/ram-1500-power-steering-recall/38955769/

 

Haha yeah the new Ram 1500's have had great quality control so far:

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/water-leaking-in-cab.4877/

 

"I had a leak in my rear window. took 5 weeks to get a new window replaced. Factory window was missing approx. 8 inches of sealant."

 

"What's the build date of your truck? I've seen the same issue in reading a few threads, nearly identical 'missing x inches of sealant around the rear window'."

 

https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/how-prevalent-are-these-problems.1804/#post-25811


"My leak issues are in the rear and front and involve volumes of of water that totally saturate large areas of carpet. It kinda like buying a flood damaged vehicle. I am embarrassed to show anyone my $60k truck. Its a great truck otherwise but there is no excuse for these issues.....maybe rushed to market TOO soon.

I sent FCA my first "Lemon Law" certified letter today requesting satisfaction within 30 days or by-back. "

Posted

I have the 2019 Silverado Trail Boss edition. It is currently in the shop for this repair, it leaked to the point that i ran down the back of the seat, entered the seat back compartment, over filled and ran out in the seat. Almost to water bottles full. I asked the dealer to replace the carpet and rear seat, but they refused on the seat and said the carpet could be replaced, but they would have to pull all the seats and consoles out and he didn't recommend that because panels could get scratched in the process. The way I look at it if there certified people scratch a panel, then they will have to replace it. He said they did the bulletin and applied the sealer because there were no visual cracks, but I think this should be a recall. I told him that I wanted everything documented so that if a mold issue pops up they will have to replace the interior completely. I just can't believe for the amount of money (myself)people are paying for these vehicles that we can't get better quality stuff, or the backing to take care of the issues when they arise. I have been a chevy/GMC supporter for a long time, but it just seems like I end up with issues buying new vehicles that should be flawless.

IMG_2159.JPG

IMG_2162.JPG

  • Confused 1
Posted

I wonder if these are coming from a certain location as far as where they are built, or a certain build date?   

Posted

I sprayed mine a bit in the car wash today, didn't seem to leak. Build date of 01/21/19 plant G Silao Mexico :sigh:  I'm going to keep an eye on it first time it rains.. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  
    • It's all a crock of 💩
    • I had a Gen5DIY DRL relocate harness from a 2022 1500 that I saved. I had Gen5DIY modify the harness for my 2024 Silverado 2500. Plug n Play, worked perfectly.    Here's a video I made for the 2022 1500 truck. The install is more or less the same on a 2500.    The harness relocates the DRL tot he top amber turn signal on my 2500.     
    • Can ask that about a lot of places.   Holiday sells 91 for $1 over 87 octane. BP 93 is 80 cents. Amoco 93 is 80 cents Kwik Trips is $1.20 for 92 or whatever they have and $1 for the 91.   I know that this is not exactly same as what you are saying with the premium to premium debate of those two stations but why is there such a difference. Top Tier this and that, it's all BS. All the fuel comes from the same damn refinery, so give me a break.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...