Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
18 minutes ago, PackerChev said:

Has your new one been leak free?!

3 weeks on FUYAO E4 and leak free so far. However, I went 9 months and 13k miles on the FUYAO E2 before it started leaking. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, bobboberton1 said:

Is everyone getting replacement glass? Has anyone had an explanation of the repair? My dealer is stating they will reuse the same glass. 

The TSB states to caulk the window first. If it re-leaks, replace the window. 

 

Not to give you a hard time, but we have a lot of new people coming to this thread and asking the same questions that are answered in it.

 

TLDR, I get it, but if you have this problem, it would behoove you to read the 1800 posts.

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

My dealership told me that GM engineering informed them that the rear window were a one time use.  If the caulking job didn't work they could not reuse the old window. This was after trying to caulk the window 3 times.

Edited by JohnCasey
Posted
2 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

The TSB states to caulk the window first. If it re-leaks, replace the window. 

 

Not to give you a hard time, but we have a lot of new people coming to this thread and asking the same questions that are answered in it.

 

TLDR, I get it, but if you have this problem, it would behoove you to read the 1800 posts.

UGADawgs; I agree and understand completely what you are saying. I’ve read all the posts over the past several days as I had done all my homework and was planning to purchase a new truck this month. I was shocked to find this post and if GM is following this please be aware you should do something to resolve it.  But I’m still not aware of a consistent repair method resulting in a permanent fix for this issue. Yes, as many of you fine folks say that a “quality dealership”  that knows what they are doing can/will fix it but what is that fix? Sealant or new window + frame? I’m kind of in a bind as our local dealer has a horrible reputation, extremely limited supply of vehicles so I was planning to visit Everett GMC (based on positive comments I’ve read here) which is 7 hours away. So I can’t afford to run to Everett GMC with ongoing leaking issues. So unless I’m missing something the dealer repairs are hit and miss and even with a brand new 2020 there’s still no guarantee it won’t leak. That’s a $60,000+ gamble I can’t afford to take. Please tell me I’m wrong or missing something? Thanks in advance. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, D A said:

UGADawgs; I agree and understand completely what you are saying. I’ve read all the posts over the past several days as I had done all my homework and was planning to purchase a new truck this month. I was shocked to find this post and if GM is following this please be aware you should do something to resolve it.  But I’m still not aware of a consistent repair method resulting in a permanent fix for this issue. Yes, as many of you fine folks say that a “quality dealership”  that knows what they are doing can/will fix it but what is that fix? Sealant or new window + frame? I’m kind of in a bind as our local dealer has a horrible reputation, extremely limited supply of vehicles so I was planning to visit Everett GMC (based on positive comments I’ve read here) which is 7 hours away. So I can’t afford to run to Everett GMC with ongoing leaking issues. So unless I’m missing something the dealer repairs are hit and miss and even with a brand new 2020 there’s still no guarantee it won’t leak. That’s a $60,000+ gamble I can’t afford to take. Please tell me I’m wrong or missing something? Thanks in advance. 

You got it 100%. If I were you, I'd hold off making a purchase until GM comes clean on what went wrong and what change they made with FUYAO E4 and/or what they are doing to fix this widespread issue. This isn't some bad power steering pump or infotainment system, issue. This is a leaking window causing collateral damage and multiple return trips to dealers with half baked fixes. 

  • Like 1
Posted

GM coming clean ain’t ever gonna happen. Design changes usually happen pretty quietly, and I wouldn’t expect anything different here apart from maybe an updated TSB. 
 

I had thought about doing some “destination truck buying“ like Everrett or Laura...but doing so would have made every problem with this truck a million times worse. Thankfully I bought local. And thus have somewhat of a leg to stand on in their service department after spending 6 figures at their dealer recently.


People underestimate the value of that when they only shop the cheapest price. I wonder how many bad experiences in this thread are attributed to service by a non-purchasing dealer. I know it’s not what GM wants, but one has to imagine if the dealer doesn’t view you as a potential future customer, they might be inclined to screw you around, not give a loaner, and / or do shoddier work. 

Posted

My local dealer added some urethane to my rear window last Thursday and it’s rained for the last 3 days and I haven’t seen a leak yet. They did a really good job bc it doesn’t look like they touched anything inside or outside the truck. It was kept inside to cure before they gave it back to me. They also said they’ve seen quite a few of these so hopefully they’ve got the fix down by now and I won’t have any issues going forward. I’m just gonna assume it’s fixed and keep checking it when it rains. Fingers crossed I won’t have any more issues. Just for y’all’s information my window is E9 and it was built in Mexico in 4/19.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
On 2/29/2020 at 11:19 AM, Brandon Adams said:

So I finally got my truck back from where they damaged a bunch of stuff when they replaced my headliner. They're still fighting me over the gouges on the passenger a pillar. In the process of fixing things, somehow they broke a piece on my rear passenger door... what the heck?

20200229_111841.jpg

I feel your pain. When I got mine back after two months they didn't mount the roof console all the way, the sun visor was hanging off, C pillar trim scratched, and the seat belts on backwards.

Posted

Well add me to the leaking rear sliding window. Took it in to the dealer on Monday. He confirmed cracked frame on driver side corner of the frame. Ordered a replacement on Monday and it is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Service Advisor said bring truck in on Monday to have it installed.

 

I will post an update on how it goes and the window part number installed.

Posted
On 3/4/2020 at 3:34 PM, Centrebaseball said:

One month leak free with my replacement FayUO E4

Mine is an E4 and it's currently leaking, my appointment was set 2 weeks out which is Monday 3/9/2020. The dealership said it would take 3 days but didn't disclose what their fix would be other than they are sending it to a glass shop. Fingers crossed that I am not going down a path of constantly driving loaners and a leaky truck.

Posted
So I got in my truck this morning... and it's leaking again. The headliner is wet on the passenger side again. 
Was yours replaced or just caulked?

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...