Rear window leak

abraham Lincoln · May 14, 2020

@JAP90, For me, its the rail in which the rear window slides in thats cracked in about 4 spots that i can see. If yours isnt leaking i hope you're in the clear, i dont wish this on nobody, its annoying, and almost ruins the new car feeling. But ive heard of peoples windows leaking months after buying, or maybe they just never noticed it leaking in the first place? Mine i noticed about a week after taking delivery, on a very rainy day. Luckily nothing got soaked in mine. I saw some drops running down the temp tag lol, it was the worst feeling, not what you wanna see in your dream truck. Just keep an eye on it bud.

Leevon · May 14, 2020

Another one down. 23K miles and I thought maybe I dodged the bullet until now, sigh. August 2018 build date.

Dunn · May 14, 2020

just got a 2020 LT 2500 and its good so far....under 1k miles though so well see

abraham Lincoln · May 14, 2020

Dunn, good to hear man. Lets hope it stays that way for ya.

Comscan · May 15, 2020

I have now finally joined this club, have had the truck 8 months not sure how long it's been leaking going into my dealer next Thursday to get it fixed.

ShamrockShooter · May 15, 2020

I have now finally joined this club, have had the truck 8 months not sure how long it's been leaking going into my dealer next Thursday to get it fixed.

"Fixed"..ha. thanks needed a good Friday quarantine laugh. You are quite the comedian

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ShamrockShooter · May 15, 2020

Add me to the list! Rear window seal has a kink in it. Still love my truck. Going to the service desk first thing in the morning. Interior is still fine no smell, nothing is wet, but with a running hose you can make it leak easily. 2020 trail boss lt bought in april 2020 dont know the build date yet.

My 2020 trail boss had a kink in the top left corner just like yours. Identical. Ironically it was leaking in the right side.

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Leevon · May 15, 2020

Stay tuned ya'll...I just ordered a solid rear glass to convert my slider. This might seem crazy to some but my options are 1) let the dealer "fix" the leak and we all know how that is turning out or 2) trade the truck or 3) fix it myself permanently. I like the truck, don't want to trade it and I never wanted the slider anyway and I definitely don't want silicone goobered all over a $55k truck so solid window it is. The GM glass is coming out of Canada apparently there isn't much inventory. I am going to do some dis-assembly and prep this weekend I'll let ya'll know how it goes!

Edited May 15, 2020 by Leevon

Jav_eee · May 15, 2020

Stay tuned ya'll...I just ordered a solid rear glass to convert my slider. This might seem crazy to some but my options are 1) let the dealer "fix" the leak and we all know how that is turning out or 2) trade the truck or 3) fix it myself permanently. I like the truck, don't want to trade it and I never wanted the slider anyway and I definitely don't want silicone goobered all over a $55k truck so solid window it is. The GM glass is coming out of Canada apparently there isn't much inventory. I am going to do some dis-assembly and prep this weekend I'll let ya'll know how it goes!

If mine ever leaks I’m asking them to do the same thing. Solid rear window swap. Small price to pay to avoid problems down the road...

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Comscan · May 16, 2020

13 hours ago, ShamrockShooter said:

"Fixed"..ha. thanks needed a good Friday quarantine laugh. You are quite the comedian

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Oh yea of little faith! LOL

Leevon · May 16, 2020

DIY Spoiler removal / access to the top of the window with some more detail than found in the TSB:

1. Remove B-pillar seat belt bezel

2. Remove upper rear corner of the door seal from the pinch weld to get access to first the B-pillar trim clips

3. Release the B-pillar trim clip closest to the door with a screwdriver to get them started or just pull the whole thing if you're brave (there are 3 metal trim clips on the bottom and 1 at the top)

4. Remove the small bolt/retainer holding wiring from the back of the B-pillar trim

5. Remove both rear coat hooks (un-clip the face from the inner most side with a small tool) and remove bolt

6. Pull the headliner down (you WILL have to molest it some to get it down past the window track) then reach toward the rear middle and give it some separation, there are two retainers in the back, now you have the rear mostly down. Yes it will crease a little, it's not permanent if you're careful.

7. Using a long screwdriver and/or pry or trim tool with a light reach into the back of the dome light and separate the two metal trim clips. Now you have adequate access to the headliner.

8. There are 4 10mm bolts, 8 10mm nuts and 2 retainers. The nuts and bolts are easy. Long curved needle nose will do the trick on the retainers.

From there you can see just how piss poor the design of this spoiler and window is. All of the water on top of and around the spoiler channels to the top of the window where there is a deep "gutter". There is a lightweight foam sealer at the top of the spoiler doing little to nothing to route water around the dozen holes. You will also notice that there is little to no sealing on the many holes for fasteners and retainers in the roof. I found 1, yes ONE! seal on the bolts. The flange of the nuts in the spoiler have small o-rings on them. This is all mind-boggling really.

Both side of my window frame are cracked about 6" from the edge, as most others have found. The urethane window seal to the body is fine. If you want to seal the frame yourself, you should clean out the giant "gutter" on top of the window with soapy water and a brush and forget about using crap silicone. Get some self-leveling urethane or better yet body seam sealer that will adhere and remain elastic. There is no way that Kent silicone will do any good long term.

If you're like me and you want to get rid of this crap slider, stay tuned I will post that DIY after the new GM solid window arrives.

Thomcat · May 16, 2020

Thanks, for the photos. Those holes look like the source of many headliner leaks. That's why I'll live with an occasional expansion "pop" instead of getting the dealer to monkey around with those seals that are not leaking.

Had those same thin crappy "O" seals around the bolts anchoring the spoiler on my Camaro. The way to go was to place a heavy blob of silicone rubber on the nut/washer and then tighten it....excess rubber just squeezed out and wiped off, but the holes are completely sealed from the inside-out.....and no more trunk leaks!

hotrodz37 · May 16, 2020

Had my window replaced last Thursday, the one coming out was a Vitro E9 and had cracks all around the frame.

New one is a Fayuo E4. We had some light rain over the last week and it remained dry which was great but wasn’t fully confident yet. Last night we had a helluva storm here in Austin, TX - 50+ wind, hail, tons of rain etc. Woke up this morning and went to check and it’s dry as a bone.

Not to say that it won’t leak in the future but I’d venture to say mine is fixed for now [emoji1694]

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BamX31 · May 16, 2020

2019 sierra 1500 SLT. Thought I got lucky but noticed it leaking down both sides of the rear window. Dealer said that the four bolts holding the rear spoiler were the wrong bolts from the assembly line and not pulling it tight enough to seal. They have the bolts ordered for the repair so we will see. After seeing what they are going to have to go through to replace them I am dreading it. I HATE IT when they have to work on anything.