Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Bonding plastic and glass together is really never a good idea simply because of the different expansion and contraction rates of the two materials, but that's what we have with the sliders. Sooner or later either the plastic will crack or the glass will shatter. The urethane sealants in use now are really quite good at what they do, but the foundation they rely on is questionable.

 

Then for good measure move the third brake light which used to mount in the rear of the metal cab to a plastic spoiler bolted to a metal roof that has holes drilled through it to mount said spoiler. They probably should have designed a sump in the rear floor pan and included a bilge pump with a float switch to the T1's.

 

I am on my first reseal. My dealership removed the spoiler and resealed it too. I have my fingers crossed !

Edited by Enough
Posted
12 hours ago, Bigfoot98 said:

Just get rid of the slider, 400 bucks and the problem disappears

This will be my course of action if I get a leak.  I might give them one shot at it if I get a good sense they know what they’re doing or even have a glass company (specialist) handle it, but there’s no way I’m going through what some here have dealt with for the sake of saving a few hundred bucks.  And there’s no way I’m giving up my truck for this, especially in the current environment.

Posted
10 hours ago, GN2018 said:

This will be my course of action if I get a leak.  I might give them one shot at it if I get a good sense they know what they’re doing or even have a glass company (specialist) handle it, but there’s no way I’m going through what some here have dealt with for the sake of saving a few hundred bucks.  And there’s no way I’m giving up my truck for this, especially in the current environment.

A glass company will not do the tsb, just the window replacement

The dealer that did mine broke the headliner support bracket at the rear window on the driver side and ripped the inner layer of the headliner on the passenger side that the bracket glues to. they also broke the coat hooks covers, I never knew that until the glass was replaced with the non slider and the headliner sags at the window, so they wont pay up for the repair costs since theyre gonna claim the glass guy did it, even though he never dropped the headliner, just them so its not worth the argument.

 

So i ordered the parts and I will do it myself, I just need some 3M VHB tape for the tear and I should be set but if I'd have know they'd break my truck's components and not tell anyone or fix it I would never have let them touch it the first time.

 

Moral of the story, even if the dealer seems good there is at least one or two employees that dont give a f*** and will not do everything properly

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Well... mine is leaking from the same spot that was "fixed" the first time so it will be headed back for the second try soon. Whatever sealer they used seems to be making water track to the opposite side where it is now leaking there too.

 

Living in a place that gets 68 inches of rain a year plus the occasional tropical storm or worse having a watertight vehicle is fairly important. Given the price we pay for these trucks we deserve better.

 

Giving up and putting in a fixed glass only enables GM to continue passing off flawed designs instead of making things the right way. I'm too old to put up with crappy engineering.

 

Strike 2 on this truck.

Posted

Well...gave up and traded mine away.  7 months after my last repair, the dealer says "labor warranty is only 90 days.  Part failure warranty is 1 year.  You'll have to come in and let us see which one it is.  You're out of warranty at 38000, so you'll have to pay for the leak check and the repair if it isn't a part failure."

 

After my $11000 check from GM and the trade allowance, I essentially paid $2000 to drive it for 2.5 years.  Can't say I was sorry to see it go.  Too many first year issues.  Hope you guys get your leaks resolved.  Stay on top of them and if you have more than 4 repair attempts, I recommend hiring a lemon lawyer and sending a demand letter to GM.

 

I used a reputable firm out of Mobile, AL.  Not hard to find one on Google.  Took about 5 months, but I did get paid eventually. 

Posted
On 3/28/2021 at 5:00 PM, UGADawgs said:

I bailed a couple months ago due to my leaking "Sieverado", but have been still lurking on this thread. I have been eyeing a '21 F150..... but the Ford forum has a thread about rusted rear ends and exhaust systems.... Waiting for them to figure that out and leaning towards the powerboost hybrid with the 7.2kw battery/generator for a travel trailer and when power goes out with hurricanes. 

image.thumb.png.eec26d50622cfe1d46dfadc6b27c6ef2.png

 


And after a five month wait, it's been delivered....

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/11-1-2021-build-club.5724/page-111#post-126301

  • Like 1
Posted

I know lots of people posting in here but figured I’d add to it. My 2020 Black Widow 1500 went in for a leaking window and they applied the sealer to it (globs of black sealer on a white truck under the spoiler is great) and now it’s going back in again for a second time. Just went outside with a flashlight to inspect the plastic rear sliding window frame (per recommendation of this thread) and found half a dozen micro cracks with water dripping out of them (snow melting on my roof). Going to push for a window replacement when it goes in opposed to just removing and resealing the window. How many guys have changed over to a solid (non sliding)(yes I know I like parentheses) rear window? I’m afraid even the new plastic window frame will crack eventually. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/1/2021 at 7:22 AM, Bigfoot98 said:

New window is in, dry over the past week, goodbye to the stupid slider!

A17192DF-72E9-4FF7-A458-2C1708D060B6.jpeg

Is the new solid glass still holding up to no leaks? Any advice on getting this done? 

Posted
22 minutes ago, bfontenot9 said:

Does anyone know if the 2500 models are having this leaking issue?

My father in laws 2021 Denali 2500 had his leaking. Dealership “fixed” it with the sealant

Posted
2 hours ago, bfontenot9 said:

Does anyone know if the 2500 models are having this leaking issue?

Only ones with slider. I went to look at a 2020 2500 denali with a slider (it was used) and it had signs of it leaking but as far a I know there are very little issues with the solid glass leaking 

Posted

I created an account to post on here.  Discovered over Christmas my 2021 Chevy Silverado also has this rear window leak. Called quite a few dealerships in my area and for some reason none of them know about this issue with the rear window leaking.  Has anyone from Iowa had this issue fixed at a dealership on here.  I would like to take mine to a dealership that has fixed this issue before.  ThanksD718DB41-9135-48FD-A246-964D18A8AB1A.heicB39168A6-2A51-4C73-94CA-C6C62220BF8F.heic

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Jerhenn said:

I created an account to post on here.  Discovered over Christmas my 2021 Chevy Silverado also has this rear window leak. Called quite a few dealerships in my area and for some reason none of them know about this issue with the rear window leaking.  Has anyone from Iowa had this issue fixed at a dealership on here.  I would like to take mine to a dealership that has fixed this issue before.  ThanksD718DB41-9135-48FD-A246-964D18A8AB1A.heicB39168A6-2A51-4C73-94CA-C6C62220BF8F.heic

 

What you want is a Window repair shop who has fixed this issue.   The dealer doesn't do the work,  They farm it out to an auto glass repair shop.  If you read through the thread you will quickly see what we have experienced.   First step never works.  2nd, 3rd and 4th should fix it but keep an eye on it as it has led to 5th and 6th steps for some.

 

Edited by jeepincbum11
Fixed spelling
Posted
8 hours ago, Jerhenn said:

I created an account to post on here.  Discovered over Christmas my 2021 Chevy Silverado also has this rear window leak. Called quite a few dealerships in my area and for some reason none of them know about this issue with the rear window leaking.  Has anyone from Iowa had this issue fixed at a dealership on here.  I would like to take mine to a dealership that has fixed this issue before.  ThanksD718DB41-9135-48FD-A246-964D18A8AB1A.heicB39168A6-2A51-4C73-94CA-C6C62220BF8F.heic

My dealership said the same thing at first then one guy spilled the beans and told me they’ve done a few but never had any come back, now that mines going back again for a second time they’re telling me they’ve done a few window replacements, meaning trucks have come back for a second time. I would say imo most decent sized dealerships have done they’re fair share

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Jerhenn said:

I created an account to post on here.  Discovered over Christmas my 2021 Chevy Silverado also has this rear window leak. Called quite a few dealerships in my area and for some reason none of them know about this issue with the rear window leaking.  Has anyone from Iowa had this issue fixed at a dealership on here.  I would like to take mine to a dealership that has fixed this issue before.  ThanksD718DB41-9135-48FD-A246-964D18A8AB1A.heicB39168A6-2A51-4C73-94CA-C6C62220BF8F.heic

For me I knew of a repair glass guy. That was really good at his job and did great work. I called him up and asked him about the problem. He told me that he has done hundreds of these repair. So he told me to go to GMC in Pasadena thats who contract him and he will take care of it. Over a year now with no problem

Edited by Cuongdyna

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...