Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

GM will be repurchasing my 2018 and I will be going into a 2019. I had done a massive system upgrade on my 2014 and was hoping to transfer that into my 2018 before it was plagued with issues. Now, I am looking to go into a 2019 and will be changing out the sound system as well so I was wondering if anyone had already started this. I did a write-up on the 2014-2018 non-bose systems and I have no issue doing another DIY write-up and tear down of the truck but it is a lot of work when there is no information available and I have to resolve everything on my own. From what I can see, still offering two systems: standard 6 speaker and the BOSE system. With that said, I cannot imagine too big of a difference in the wiring schematics but I could be wrong. Understanding how panels and clips are held in are also another obstacle. Any help will be greatly appreciated and I will start tearing it down as soon as I have most of the information I need. 

Posted

I'm still debating on this as I'm not sure if I'm gonna switch to a 2500 next year or not. 

 

Excited to see how you make ouy

Posted

...watching for updates.  I have the base sound system in my 2019 and it's one of the few things I don't love about the truck, but I kinda new that when I skipped the Bose option.  I'm not looking to add much, but will likely replace all of the speakers and see if the factory head unit can power enough to sound ok.  Not much information out there yet.  

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, 01ssrms said:

...watching for updates.  I have the base sound system in my 2019 and it's one of the few things I don't love about the truck, but I kinda new that when I skipped the Bose option.  I'm not looking to add much, but will likely replace all of the speakers and see if the factory head unit can power enough to sound ok.  Not much information out there yet.  

Changing the speakers will be a very mild upgrade. You'll gain some clarity but you still have to deal with the door speakers playing such a large frequency range. Without a subwoofer to handle the lower frequencies, you may struggle to find suitable speakers that can operate efficiently with the low rms output of the headunit. If you want to throw in just an amp and subwoofer, you can yluse something like the AudioControl LC7i to switch to an active system and relieve the door speakers of the lower frequency range so they can play better. That is the cheapest route I would recommend. 

Edited by Ericruiz911
  • Like 2
Posted

I would highly suggest the Bose in your 2019. I have it in my 2019 and it is a million times more impressive than in my 2015. It is so much louder as well as the clarity... They nailed it compared to my last one.

 

Note; my 2015 SLT had a bench seat, and my 2019 does not. I think there are some audio differences between the 2... but this new system is LOUD. 

  • Like 3
Posted
On 12/23/2018 at 11:52 AM, mattsvtcobra said:

I would highly suggest the Bose in your 2019. I have it in my 2019 and it is a million times more impressive than in my 2015. It is so much louder as well as the clarity... They nailed it compared to my last one.

 

Note; my 2015 SLT had a bench seat, and my 2019 does not. I think there are some audio differences between the 2... but this new system is LOUD. 

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappointing that GM puts much better systems in a lot of their cars than in the trucks.

  • Like 4
Posted

I'm wondering if they added more to the main head unit, like all the extra info from the trailer system and such that there is more to it now than before.  I guess if you leave the head unit in then it shouldn't be an issue.  I'm a 100% novice, just looking at that point as to what GM is doing.  Seems they are integrating everything to talk to each other throughout the vehicle, that changing out the head unit might be a major challenge anymore.

Posted

For the average person, the bose system will be more than enough but for an audiophile, it needs to go and the only thing it does is complicate the integration of an aftermarket system due to the added amplifier and wiring schematics. If you will never touch your sound system, go for the bose and I am positive you will be happy. If you know you're going to modify the sound system, avoid the bose system and save yourself the hassle. 

Posted

I Personally do not like Bose products. I just installed a 5 chanel JL Audio amp along with a 12” JL Audio sub / box that fits underneath the seat perfectly 

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anybody taken apart the dash to get behind the nav screen?  How did you do it in the new 2019?  I can easily get the bezel trim off, but after taking off the four screws around the main big plastic piece that encompasses the nav screen and climate controls, I have a hard time figuring out how to pull that big piece out.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted
10 hours ago, JacobC1983 said:

Has anybody taken apart the dash to get behind the nav screen?  How did you do it in the new 2019?  I can easily get the bezel trim off, but after taking off the four screws around the main big plastic piece that encompasses the nav screen and climate controls, I have a hard time figuring out how to pull that big piece out.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It is probably just clipped in. You're just not pulling hard enough because you're scared of breaking it. Unfortunately, I still don't have my 2019 yet so I cannot help you but I would recommend you try again and this time, see if you get any outward play when trying to pull it out. That will tell you if you're missing a screw or if it's just clipped in and you're not pulling hard enough. I will be posting up a bunch of DIY removal videos once I take delivery. 

Posted
19 minutes ago, Ericruiz911 said:

It is probably just clipped in. You're just not pulling hard enough because you're scared of breaking it. Unfortunately, I still don't have my 2019 yet so I cannot help you but I would recommend you try again and this time, see if you get any outward play when trying to pull it out. That will tell you if you're missing a screw or if it's just clipped in and you're not pulling hard enough. I will be posting up a bunch of DIY removal videos once I take delivery. 

I tried twice, and couldn’t bring myself to pull any harder, actually the hardest part is finding a reasonable place to start pulling.  

 

If anybody has access to the exploded schematic that would be excellent! Just to make sure there isn’t a hidden bolt somewhere 

Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, JacobC1983 said:

I tried twice, and couldn’t bring myself to pull any harder, actually the hardest part is finding a reasonable place to start pulling.  

 

If anybody has access to the exploded schematic that would be excellent! Just to make sure there isn’t a hidden bolt somewhere 

Agreed. I hate working blind and finding out the hard way that an engineer decided to over-secure a plastic panel (Like the 10 metal clips that hold on the thin plastic bezel around the radio in the 2014-2018 models).

 

I am also interested in this as I will be placing a special order for the 2019 Silverado 1500 High Country (as soon as I find out if they are actually going to have a tow mirror option at all without stepping up to an HD). The first thing I'm doing is installing a PAC AmpPro (AP4-GM61) to bypass the Bose amp and replace all the speakers with Morel Tempo, powered by Morel Class AB amps, building a front-fire under seat box for 4 DC Audio M38 subwoofers running on an Incriminator Audio IA20.1 amp, and adding enough Road Kill sound dampener to cover all the metal behind the plastic.

 

Needless to say, an exploded schematic would be VERY helpful to me and anyone in the car audio business.

Edited by ApertureX
typo
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, ApertureX said:

Agreed. I hate working blind and finding out the hard way that an engineer decided to over-secure a plastic panel (Like the 10 metal clips that hold on the thin plastic bezel around the radio in the 2014-2018 models).

 

I am also interested in this as I will be placing a special order for the 2019 Silverado 1500 High Country (as soon as I find out if they are actually going to have a tow mirror option at all without stepping up to an HD). The first thing I'm doing is installing a PAC AmpPro (AP4-GM61) to bypass the Bose amp and replace all the speakers with Morel Tempo, powered by Morel Class AB amps, building a front-fire under seat box for 4 DC Audio M38 subwoofers running on an Incriminator Audio IA20.1 amp, and adding enough Road Kill sound dampener to cover all the metal behind the plastic.

 

Needless to say, an exploded schematic would be VERY helpful to me and anyone in the car audio business.

Got the schematic from my dealer -- not sure how much it will help me honestly -- I can't figure out where there might be a missing screw or bolt - here are the pictures in the following posts

 

Edited by JacobC1983

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...