2002 2500HD Silverado Rear End

[MMRW666]

I have a 2002 2500HD Silverado. It is 2 Wheel Drive, 6.0L, with the Gov-Loc Differential. Recently my axle shaft snapped, when it did it also cracked the housing. I have a replacement ordered that doesn't have the backing plate or brakes. I am currently in a different town than the truck is so I was wondering what tools I will be needing to take the rear end off of the truck, take the brakes off of that one, put it on the new one and put the new one under my truck. What size bolts and if you can also what tension everything will need to be. It is the gt5 g80.

[davester]

Did you just get the housing, or does the new axle also have the all the diff bits installs already?

[MMRW666]

It has everything except the right brakes and backing plate. Seeing as I had to drive on it a little ways with the broken axle shaft I thought it would be best to replace the whole thing.

[davester]

1/2" metric socket set

metric wrench set

metric crows-foot "sockets" (open end wrench that connects to a ratchet, probably 3/8", then an adapter to the 1/2" torque wrench or a 3/8" torque wrench) for torquing the brake lines/hoses

various pliers/screwdrivers for working with the parking brakes and cables

1/2" torque wrench that goes to about 200 ft-lbs

either a torch or a pipe extension for getting the caliper bracket bolts off, as they should have red-loctite used on them (best to do this with the axle bolted to the vehicle, as it'll suck to try to get them loose with the axle flopping around on the ground)

red loctite for installing said caliper bracket bolts

special socket for loosening/tightening the hub nut (it's about 3" in diameter, with some pins sticking out the end)

stuff for bleeding the brakes...and make sure to plug the brake hose from the frame to the rear axle after you disconnect it, so all the fluid doesn't drain out, and minimal air gets in the line, so you don't have to bleed the abs controller, just the rear brakes.  Maybe also check that you can open&close the bleeder screws on the calipers before you start, as they tend to rust and you can either get parts or fix the bleeders in preparation for the job.

sign up for a short (or a longer one if you plan on working on the truck yourself) subscription to the full-service manual for your truck at helminc.com or alldatadiy.com or other web sites, so you know all the various torque values to use, and how to setup the rear hub

 

Note, this is just off the top of my head, there may be bits I've missed...

[MMRW666]

Thank you for helping me the best you can, if anyone else knows anymore information it would be greatly appreciated. Starting the project this weekend.

[davester]

...and you'll also need brake fluid, for bleeding the brakes and diff gear oil (may want to check your owners manual, but I use 75w90 synthetic gear oil for mine)

 

-hub seal and axle gasket (2 each)

 

Might also want to replace the parking brake shoes & hardware since your in there and they probably haven't been done in awhile.

And maybe the disc brake pads if they are worn...

[davester]

so, how did the swap work out?

[MMRW666]

Just fine. No problems at all except it was really cold outside and it took us about 6 hours one day and another 2 the next. Still have to change the driver side backing plate. But that is short on my to-do list.

 

Oh and fyi the bolts that "needed" a torch/breaker bar worked fine with  Milwaukee 2762-20 M18 Fuel. Zipped everything right off no problemo

Edited March 5, 2019 by MMRW666