Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am new to the Forum and have a 2017 Sierra with 12K on it.  I understand the principle behind the catch can and it makes sense.  The problem I have is that there is a lack of evidence that it actually does what it says it will do.  I have no doubt it removes water and oil but does it actually reduce the carbon build up on your valves?  With the amount of money involved in selling an promoting these things I can believe that someone has not performed any type of controlled scientific study.  It would be simple for a company with a fleet of vehicles to take a group on new trucks and have some with and without catch cans.  After a certain amount of time or mileage you look at the valves and scientifically measure the amount of carbon on the valves.  I have not been able to find such a study.  does anyone know of the existence of one?

 

Alternatively, does anyone on the forum have a GDI truck with high mileage that does not have any carbon fouling problems?  How are you managing you maintenance?

 

I have no problems installing a catch can but I would like some actual proof that it does what it says it does. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On ‎3‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 5:08 PM, SS502 said:

Emptied my RXP dual catch can...this is at 650 miles. I’ve posted the 100, 400 and now 650 miles. This is a total, I have been keeping a running total. 

04C95CC5-7756-4D80-A422-6D07474E1D4C.jpeg

 

10 minutes ago, CSI-WALLEYE said:

I am new to the Forum and have a 2017 Sierra with 12K on it.  I understand the principle behind the catch can and it makes sense.  The problem I have is that there is a lack of evidence that it actually does what it says it will do.  I have no doubt it removes water and oil but does it actually reduce the carbon build up on your valves?  With the amount of money involved in selling an promoting these things I can believe that someone has not performed any type of controlled scientific study.  It would be simple for a company with a fleet of vehicles to take a group on new trucks and have some with and without catch cans.  After a certain amount of time or mileage you look at the valves and scientifically measure the amount of carbon on the valves.  I have not been able to find such a study.  does anyone know of the existence of one?

 

Alternatively, does anyone on the forum have a GDI truck with high mileage that does not have any carbon fouling problems?  How are you managing you maintenance?

 

I have no problems installing a catch can but I would like some actual proof that it does what it says it does. 

A simple Google search can show you all sorts of DI intake valves with build-up. Not going to try to persuade you either way but the fact that other manufactures have gone to DI along with the older PI (it's a dual system) and GM designing an internal system should tell you plenty. I doubt you will find a specific controlled scientific study on the K2 trucks but (not trying to be a smart@ss) I don't need to rub poison oak all over my face to know I'm gonna have some itching really soon. The above picture is from only 650 miles on my personal truck. Even if it somehow didn't get baked onto the valves, I don't want it being sucked down my intake and into the combustion chamber. It's a personal choice obviously and one that I made for me. I believe that @Snowcamo is going to be tearing down his intake (if not already) and I asked him to take pictures, he is at about 100K but I am not sure if he runs a can or not. I plan on bore scoping my intake at 20K just to see how well OR bad my catch can is or isn't working. I didn't provide you with a study you seek but I did give you a nice long answer to help pass the time LOL :D

  • Like 2
Posted

Or use simple logic.  If oil isn't hitting the valves, what would be building up on them?  Exactly.  

 

If you reduce the amount of oil hitting the valves, common sense would tell you that your reduced the build up on the valves.  

 

You have seen the proof of catch cans catching oil. That is oil heading towards your intake.  That should be enough reason to know this should be used.  

 

GM even puts a catch can (be it an unfortunate design that dumps into the sump) on some of its DI motors.  So GM thinks they are worthwhile as well.  

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted

See picture above from SS502 and the "simple" logic Nitrousbird pointed out.  That should be all the evidence you need.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I've been running a catch can on my truck since day 1. Empty it out once a week. I still had a puddle of oil in the bottom of my intake manifold when I pulled it off to bolt on the supercharger. There was still carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, not much, but some... Less than a 1/32" on some spots on the valve at most...

Posted
2 minutes ago, imiller1974 said:

I've been running a catch can on my truck since day 1. Empty it out once a week. I still had a puddle of oil in the bottom of my intake manifold when I pulled it off to bolt on the supercharger. There was still carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, not much, but some... Less than a 1/32" on some spots on the valve at most...

None of them are 100% not sure what brand you had but imagine (if you emptied weekly) what they would have looked like without it??

Posted
8 minutes ago, SS502 said:

 

A simple Google search can show you all sorts of DI intake valves with build-up. Not going to try to persuade you either way but the fact that other manufactures have gone to DI along with the older PI (it's a dual system) and GM designing an internal system should tell you plenty. I doubt you will find a specific controlled scientific study on the K2 trucks but (not trying to be a smart@ss) I don't need to rub poison oak all over my face to know I'm gonna have some itching really soon. The above picture is from only 650 miles on my personal truck. Even if it somehow didn't get baked onto the valves, I don't want it being sucked down my intake and into the combustion chamber. It's a personal choice obviously and one that I made for me. I believe that @Snowcamo is going to be tearing down his intake (if not already) and I asked him to take pictures, he is at about 100K but I am not sure if he runs a can or not. I plan on bore scoping my intake at 20K just to see how well OR bad my catch can is or isn't working. I didn't provide you with a study you seek but I did give you a nice long answer to help pass the time LOL :D

Yep im gonna pull mine. Ordering the intake gaskets friday. No catch can here, but if my intake valves are dirty ill put one in. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hey Guys,

I appreciate the responses.  I am actually leaning toward buying an E2.  However this is just as a safety measure because I have not seen evidence that cans cause any harm.  However, correlation does not prove causation.  I remain skeptical because there is no data to show reduction in deposits.  Don't you think it is curious that there is an entire industry built on this piece of equipment with not actual study to show it actually works?  Sure the oil in the can is a good indicator, but it shows that it catches oil and not that it prevents deposits.  It could be that the oil is burned in the normal operation of the engine and that there is no difference between using a can or not.  You really can't know the outcome until you perform a study designed to answer the question.  By the way, I would not be surprised if they actually do work.  I just remain skeptical until I see proof.  Does that not make sense?  

 

I was hoping that there was a study out there that I had missed.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, CSI-WALLEYE said:

Hey Guys,

I appreciate the responses.  I am actually leaning toward buying an E2.  However this is just as a safety measure because I have not seen evidence that cans cause any harm.  However, correlation does not prove causation.  I remain skeptical because there is no data to show reduction in deposits.  Don't you think it is curious that there is an entire industry built on this piece of equipment with not actual study to show it actually works?  Sure the oil in the can is a good indicator, but it shows that it catches oil and not that it prevents deposits.  It could be that the oil is burned in the normal operation of the engine and that there is no difference between using a can or not.  You really can't know the outcome until you perform a study designed to answer the question.  By the way, I would not be surprised if they actually do work.  I just remain skeptical until I see proof.  Does that not make sense?  

 

I was hoping that there was a study out there that I had missed.

Last post, I promise but just how is it going to get burned if it doesn't get introduced into the combustion chamber via your intake valves? The old Port Injection used to wash the valves off DI does not.

Edited by SS502
Posted
I've been running a catch can on my truck since day 1. Empty it out once a week. I still had a puddle of oil in the bottom of my intake manifold when I pulled it off to bolt on the supercharger. There was still carbon build up on the back of the intake valves, not much, but some... Less than a 1/32" on some spots on the valve at most...
Something isn't right with this.
I am pro catch can. There is no question at all it helps. My friends and family in auto industry agree as donevery performance shop ever.
That said install I find a issue. Also in my option the css is mandatory. Then the issue is what is the vacuum source? I have one line with a check valve and believe me it can suck the paint off. But if that source is intake then whatever that percent is it goes back into intake.
I should take a video. I drain mine and it is a cup of water mixed with oil and depending on temp I can do that every day.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Something isn't right with this.
I am pro catch can. There is no question at all it helps. My friends and family in auto industry agree as donevery performance shop ever.
That said install I find a issue. Also in my option the css is mandatory. Then the issue is what is the vacuum source? I have one line with a check valve and believe me it can suck the paint off. But if that source is intake then whatever that percent is it goes back into intake.
I should take a video. I drain mine and it is a cup of water mixed with oil and depending on temp I can do that every day.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Man, I gotta break a promise...wasn't gonna post anymore in this thread BUT...I too am a CSS believer although my CSS is it's own second can but functions the same with the tiny additional catch, doesn't catch a lot but it's not really used as much. I saw yours, you have the valve covers bridged as do I. They both work great IMHO.

Posted
Man, I gotta break a promise...wasn't gonna post anymore in this thread BUT...I too am a CSS believer although my CSS is it's own second can but functions the same with the tiny additional catch, doesn't catch a lot but it's not really used as much. I saw yours, you have the valve covers bridged as do I. They both work great IMHO.
Like a breather? I now have both valve cover ports and the css going to a breather tank.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
6 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Like a breather? I now have both valve cover ports and the css going to a breather tank.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

No, I bridged the valve covers, T fitting off that to the small can then to the intake air box with a check valve. Most CSS go from the oil fill cap valve cover to the air box. I assume your breather tank eventually gets some in it?

Posted
No, I bridged the valve covers, T fitting off that to the small can then to the intake air box with a check valve. Most CSS go from the oil fill cap valve cover to the air box. I assume your breather tank eventually gets some in it?
See that is that one line back to intake issue. But so far it says clean. But its many feet of 5/8" line no t and a large breather tank. So it takes a lot for oil to make it there.
All my valve cover ports including the css go to breather. Only the valley port goes to can. And to the intake manifold.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, CSI-WALLEYE said:

Hey Guys,

I appreciate the responses.  I am actually leaning toward buying an E2.  However this is just as a safety measure because I have not seen evidence that cans cause any harm.  However, correlation does not prove causation.  I remain skeptical because there is no data to show reduction in deposits.  Don't you think it is curious that there is an entire industry built on this piece of equipment with not actual study to show it actually works?  Sure the oil in the can is a good indicator, but it shows that it catches oil and not that it prevents deposits.  It could be that the oil is burned in the normal operation of the engine and that there is no difference between using a can or not.  You really can't know the outcome until you perform a study designed to answer the question.  By the way, I would not be surprised if they actually do work.  I just remain skeptical until I see proof.  Does that not make sense?  

 

I was hoping that there was a study out there that I had missed.

:sigh:

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
    • We had a pretty big cars and coffee in Indy this past weekend.  Pretty much anything and everything was there.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...