Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Just now, JimCost2014 said:

Yes sir, you win, I am not even sure how to post a question anyone can understand. Enjoy your 10000000000000 miles trouble free driving because an after market company sold you a product that they can not afford to even do tests on. 

WTF? I’ve been trying to answer your question and you go there?? Have a great day.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Posted
1 hour ago, SS502 said:

Go back a few posts and see my results....that’s not 90% of other stuff. If anything I’d say 80% oil, 15% fuel and 5 % water. I don’t live in a cold environment so I don’t get much water.

Don't get mad at me?  I don't care where you live Cold/Hot....Your can is 90% liquid water at the very most 10% oil?  Most likely 5-8%

 

I don't need to see your pyrex container anymore either..........we have seen quite enough of that already.  

Posted
2 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

Don't get mad at me?  I don't care where you live Cold/Hot....Your can is 90% liquid water at the very most 10% oil?  Most likely 5-8%

 

I don't need to see your pyrex container anymore either..........we have seen quite enough of that already.  

Naw, I’m gonna keep posting my little Pyrex container until I get to 1000 miles like I said I would. I’m not mad at you and I’ve seen the milky results that are as you said probably 90% water, mine I don’t believe is mainly water but you can certainly see some in it.

  • Like 2
Posted

I believe if you go to the top tier fuel page they actually show 2 valve's. One valve that had only top tier fuel and one without. You can see the difference in carbon build up. Would that be considered proof that you should be using top tier gas? Alot of people say what fuel you use does not matter because the fuel never touches the valves on a DI engine. So once again who knows....lol

  • Like 1
Posted
Yes sir, you win, I am not even sure how to post a question anyone can understand. Enjoy your 10000000000000 miles trouble free driving because an after market company sold you a product that they can not afford to even do tests on. 


Oh come on, if it’s sucking oily vapors instead of clean air then don’t you see how catching it and containing it would be better than allowing it to be sucked back through the air intake.

Did you read the article I posted?


Sent from above
  • Like 2
Posted
WTF? I’ve been trying to answer your question and you go there?? Have a great day.


Lmao!


Sent from above
  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, 15 Z71 said:

I believe if you go to the top tier fuel page they actually show 2 valve's. One valve that had only top tier fuel and one without. You can see the difference in carbon build up. Would that be considered proof that you should be using top tier gas? Alot of people say what fuel you use does not matter because the fuel never touches the valves on a DI engine. So once again who knows....lol

Nick, are you running a catch can?  If not, what is your mileage and are you having any problems?

Posted
6 minutes ago, CSI-WALLEYE said:

Nick, are you running a catch can?  If not, what is your mileage and are you having any problems?

Nope, 45,000 miles. No problems.Nobody I know with these trucks are. Couple of them are over 100,000. Heck one guy hardly ever changes his oil. Lol

Posted
9 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Oh man, I thought the title of this thread was....Catch Can Septic. My eyes are getting bad. :uhoh:

If you want to talk septic Mr. Bear, I can assist you with that topic. I am a licensed waste water "engineer", I design and built systems for country homes. The most important thing to remember, sh!t flows downhill!  

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

 


Oh come on, if it’s sucking oily vapors instead of clean air then don’t you see how catching it and containing it would be better than allowing it to be sucked back through the air intake.

Did you read the article I posted?


Sent from above

 

You have taken a pressurized system and added length of travel (the catch can hoses) for this fluid to travel, what do you really think the odds are it is catching all 100%, 90%, 80%? Not saying it is the best thing for the engine to have the fluid going into the intake, but I can imagine a lot worse things that can be done.

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted
You have taken a pressurized system and added length of travel (the catch can hoses) for this fluid to travel, what do you really think the odds are it is catching all 100%, 90%, 80%? Not saying it is the best thing for the engine to have the fluid going into the intake, but I can imagine a lot worse things that can be done.

 

The catch can doesn’t add hoses its placed between the stock hoses but does come with its own quick connect hoses just replacing the stock ones.

 

 

Sent from above

Posted
16 minutes ago, L86 All Terrain said:

If you want to talk septic Mr. Bear, I can assist you with that topic. I am a licensed waste water "engineer", I design and built systems for country homes. The most important thing to remember, sh!t flows downhill!  

Good to know, I'll stay up hill and up wind. BTW, which way is it flowing in this thread? :sick:

Posted
Over pressurization is not a new one.  There is a thread or it is in a thread on this very forum.  As determined by a mechanic, this caused the failure of the rear main seal. The over pressurization was due to a frozen can.
Removing it when taking the truck to the dealer for warranty work is just wrong.  If your mod cause a problem just own it and pay for the repairs.  Why should I have to?  People doing crap like that is a contributing factor to ever increasing prices.   
Ah oh but no. There are documented issues of lines freezing in stock setups also. But wait how is it the lines are freezing if there is nothing in them to freeze.
I will say it is more them my professional option. Gm and gm race teams know this as well. This goes back to the ls1.
Can you do without sure. You can do alot of things. And pressure issue is pure bs. Yes these truck have a issue but it is based on more then just crankcase pressure. It is bad rear main seal and design and the oil amount. But that's another hot topic here much like this.
Go ahead ask me how I know.....

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
43 minutes ago, 15 Z71 said:

Nope, 45,000 miles. No problems.Nobody I know with these trucks are. Couple of them are over 100,000. Heck one guy hardly ever changes his oil. Lol

Thanks Nick.  Are you doing anything special for maintenance?  I am through with my free oil changes and am switching to Amsoil and will clean the intake once a year.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
    • We had a pretty big cars and coffee in Indy this past weekend.  Pretty much anything and everything was there.  
    • Good looking Olds, and TRX!   I haven't been into car shows either. I'm probably not a convert but I did push myself this year to attend a few select events to challenge some assumptions and try to experience car-based social clubs in a different way. I joined up with the local Hagerty group for some cars/coffee events, group drives. A month ago I showed my '94 Camaro I rescued last fall at Radwood. Had a good time, but, there was some sitting around with the car and that's the part of shows I don't enjoy as much. I prefer to be a spectator, walk the show, grab a burger, go home.   Radwood was the only era-limited event, but where it had strict model year limitations, it made it up in variety. Having Jason Camissa there was also a hoot.   Where I see old 50's car shows, doo-wop and winga dinga music stuff fading out, same with "only" vintage muscle clubs, it seems to be the activity-based clubs/events which are gaining strong popularity. Places where all cars and interests come together.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...