Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, 15 Yukon SLT (94000 miles) here

 

So I had a misfire code P300 and engine light blinking late December 18. Done a tune up (replaced all sparks and wires) and everything was fine until a few days ago. Didn't feel any lose of power, vibrations and etc.

 

Got another misfire code, this time P0305 (cylinder #5) a few weeks back. Mechanic looked into it and couldn't reproduce. Had an engine carbon clean up. Again no lose of power, vibration poor fuel economy and so on.

 

Couple of days ago got another misfire P0305. Called the mechanics and he suggested a compression test. Not sure if needed as no other signs are apparent. He also start speaking (worst case) about taking the cylinder out to be inspected and replacing AFM lifters.

 

I've looked into mode 6 on my OBD scanner as saw that cylinders 1,3,5,7 all have misfires, though below the threshold so no codes or lights. Cylinder #5 had count of 78 misfires and the rest (1,3,7) around the 1-5 (thats after a 2hr drive)

 

What I found weird is that the AFM cylinders (2,4,6,8) had no misfires. Aren't those the ones with the lifters?

 

I've replaced the coil of cylinder 1 with 5 and got the same results (higher counts of misfires on 5) so don't think that is the problem.

 

Anyone encounter the same issue? How was it solve? Any suggestions for self diagnostics before its heading back to the a shop?

 

Thanks

   

Posted

I don''t think Cylinders 2,4,6,8 are all AFM, that would mean your engine is only firing on one bank when in 4 cylinder mode. You'd have some weird vibrations. 

 

1,3,5 and 7 are all the left side cylinders. 2,4,6 and 8 are all right side.  Bearing this in mind, I would bet good money you have a single issue causing this, and cylinder 5 happens to be suffering the worst. 

 

I'd start inspecting wiring for the injectors on that side, as well as the common wiring for the ignition coils. You may have a excessive oil weep past the spark plug grommets in the valve cover on the left side, but you'd know you did if the plugs came out oily. 

 

Misfire, to me, seems to indicate an issue with air or fuel delivery, or problems with igniting the mixture. Bad lifters seems a stretch, but anything is possible with these newer vehicles. 

 

You could also get something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4

 

and have a look in the cylinders yourself. I got one of these, this brand in particular for Christmas, and I used it for a general inspection when I changed my spark plugs about a month ago. They work extremely well and provide some good imagery as well. Case in point, the attached image shows Cylinder 2 on my truck (at the front of the engine on the right side). You can see the crosshatch on the cylinder wall, the top of the piston with a little bit of carbon buildup, as well as the tip of one of the valves and a little bit of carbon build up on it too. Quite easy to use and a good intermediate inspection step between what you've already done and engine disassembly. 

 

Good luck, and keep us posted. We like helping and it's nice to see how things turn out so there's future reference. 

 

 

Cyl2.0.jpg

Posted
21 hours ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

I don''t think Cylinders 2,4,6,8 are all AFM, that would mean your engine is only firing on one bank when in 4 cylinder mode. You'd have some weird vibrations. 

 

1,3,5 and 7 are all the left side cylinders. 2,4,6 and 8 are all right side.  Bearing this in mind, I would bet good money you have a single issue causing this, and cylinder 5 happens to be suffering the worst. 

 

I'd start inspecting wiring for the injectors on that side, as well as the common wiring for the ignition coils. You may have a excessive oil weep past the spark plug grommets in the valve cover on the left side, but you'd know you did if the plugs came out oily. 

 

Misfire, to me, seems to indicate an issue with air or fuel delivery, or problems with igniting the mixture. Bad lifters seems a stretch, but anything is possible with these newer vehicles. 

 

You could also get something like this:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4

 

and have a look in the cylinders yourself. I got one of these, this brand in particular for Christmas, and I used it for a general inspection when I changed my spark plugs about a month ago. They work extremely well and provide some good imagery as well. Case in point, the attached image shows Cylinder 2 on my truck (at the front of the engine on the right side). You can see the crosshatch on the cylinder wall, the top of the piston with a little bit of carbon buildup, as well as the tip of one of the valves and a little bit of carbon build up on it too. Quite easy to use and a good intermediate inspection step between what you've already done and engine disassembly. 

 

Good luck, and keep us posted. We like helping and it's nice to see how things turn out so there's future reference. 

 

 

Cyl2.0.jpg

Thanks for the input. 

 

My bad on the AFM cylinders. It's number 1,4,6 and 7.

 

I have another mechanic inspecting the engine next week to get a second opinion. If he will recommend a compression test I'll go ahead with it. 

 

I'll keep this post updated 

 

 

  • 4 years later...
  • 11 months later...
Posted

I’ve lost all compression on bank 2. Misfire on cyl 2 then all on bank 2. Mechanic checked compression and 0 on all 4 cylinders. Bank 1 normal. Changed plugs before I drove it to him and when he pulled plugs they were black soot. Running fine until wife put it in park then it started shuddering. Any ideas? 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Did you ever come to a conclusion on this I saw that you said you lost compression on one bank on all four cylinders that sounds pretty strange. I'm getting an air fuel imbalance on bank one and a small amount of misfires on random cylinders, but not enough to set off the code. I've done injector spark plugs, coils are good I'm running out of ideas.

Posted
16 hours ago, Michael Head said:

Did you ever come to a conclusion on this I saw that you said you lost compression on one bank on all four cylinders that sounds pretty strange. I'm getting an air fuel imbalance on bank one and a small amount of misfires on random cylinders, but not enough to set off the code. I've done injector spark plugs, coils are good I'm running out of ideas.

Probably best to start a new thread.

 

Include complete vehicle information, history and current codes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
    • Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...