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Transmission Service Questions

thatryan

By thatryan
in Engines & Drivetrain

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KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
I wouldn't run Amsoil in my lawnmower.

I have an 18 year old snapper lawnmower. Self propelled high wheel. I changed the oil and filter 3 times with Amsoil. Not smart I know. Still going no smoke. Now I’m curious about how long she’ll go.


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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, KARNUT said:


I have an 18 year old snapper lawnmower. Self propelled high wheel. I changed the oil and filter 3 times with Amsoil. Not smart I know. Still going no smoke. Now I’m curious about how long she’ll go.


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Me too? :) 

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, thatryan said:

What am I missing, is amsoil bad for mowers or something?

There are certain individuals that just seem to have a hatred for AMSOIL and will do and say anything to discredit the products and the company.  AMSOIL has been the victim of this for many years now.

 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Me too? [emoji4] 

It’s a mower I use for trimming and mowing in a fenced in area for the wife’s dogs. It even has the original plug and fuel filter. I recently gave it to my daughter. I usually end up mowing that lawn. 19 year old computer wiz grandson has trouble starting it. The mower deck is starting to get pin holes in the deck. It’s looking like the engine will outlast the mower.


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Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

I stopped into an oil change shop yesterday, asked if they do a pan drop & change filter. He said it depends if the exhaust is in the way as they can't move it or jack up anything.

He gave me the number if a local mechanic, I asked about how you change more fluid than just what will come our with the drain, his response...

Start it & idle in park & you'll get most of the rest of the rest of the fluid pumped out to the pan.

What does anyone think of that, seems a bit iffy to me. Any problems with air locks in torque converter etc?

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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I stopped into an oil change shop yesterday, asked if they do a pan drop & change filter. He said it depends if the exhaust is in the way as they can't move it or jack up anything.

He gave me the number if a local mechanic, I asked about how you change more fluid than just what will come our with the drain, his response...

Start it & idle in park & you'll get most of the rest of the rest of the fluid pumped out to the pan.

What does anyone think of that, seems a bit iffy to me. Any problems with air locks in torque converter etc?

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That’s what I’ve heard too. What fluid you going to use?


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davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

That is TERRIBLE advice (to run the transmission until all the fluid comes out).  It's only slightly less bad than doing that with your engine to get all the oil out during an oil change.  Besides various bearings & bushings, there are also clutch packs and seals that depend on the fluid to keep them lubricated to work right.  Sure, it probably won't kill your transmission immediately, but it will shorten it's life...

 

Any shop that would suggest doing something like this, is a shop you never want to use or take further advice from.

 

If you absolutely have to swap all the fluid (even though the transmission lasts a nice long time with normal fluid changes from just doing a pan drop), find a place that will do a "flush", where they add new fluid as old fluid comes out (typically by inserting their machine inline with one of the transmission oil cooler lines).

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I didn't like the sound of it either. I want to change the filter so maybe I will look for a new pan with drain plug so I can do another couple of drain & fills in short succession.

I had one full change (flush through as you described) at a different oil change place at about 50,000 kms, I'm now at 110,000 kms.


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flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted

if you cant handle doing a home brew trans flush, you might want to drill and tap the torque converter for 1/4" pipe plugs, this will drain 80% of the fluid

53 minutes ago, davester said:

That is TERRIBLE advice (to run the transmission until all the fluid comes out).  It's only slightly less bad than doing that with your engine to get all the oil out during an oil change.  Besides various bearings & bushings, there are also clutch packs and seals that depend on the fluid to keep them lubricated to work right.  Sure, it probably won't kill your transmission immediately, but it will shorten it's life...

 

Any shop that would suggest doing something like this, is a shop you never want to use or take further advice from.

 

If you absolutely have to swap all the fluid (even though the transmission lasts a nice long time with normal fluid changes from just doing a pan drop), find a place that will do a "flush", where they add new fluid as old fluid comes out (typically by inserting their machine inline with one of the transmission oil cooler lines).

 

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted

Is the updated Mobil 1 fluid brought out for the 8 speeds considered an upgrade over regular Dexron 6 for the six speeds?


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Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

No mention anywhere of that.  6-sp call for Dexron VI.  Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP is recommended for use in requiring DEXRON® HP ATF DEXRON®

Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted
No mention anywhere of that.  6-sp call for Dexron VI.  Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP is recommended for use in requiring DEXRON[emoji2400] HP ATF DEXRON[emoji2400]
Ok thanks. I have recently been getting some badly delayed shifts when getting on the gas & just wanting to put in there the best oil I can.

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Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

Thats probably "Torque Management" coming in.   If you want the best then use this.  Its in my Denali ..

 

Aisin-Warner AW-1; BMW 83 22 0 142 516, 83 22 2 152 426, 83 22 2 289 720 (ATF3+); Chrysler MOPAR* 68157995A, SP-IV; DSIH 6p805; Ford MERCON* LV, SP; GM DEXRON* HP, DEXRON* VI; Honda/Acura DW-1*, Type 3.0; Hyundai/Kia SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP-IV-RR, NWS-9638, SP4-M; JASO 1A-LV; JWS 3324; Mercedes Benz 236.12, 236.14, 236.15, 236.41; Mitsubishi SP-IV, ATF J3, ATF-PA; Nissan Matic-S, Matic-W; Saab 93 165 147; Shell M-1375.4, M-1375.5, M-1375.6, M-L 12108; Toyota WS; Volvo 31256774; VW/Audi G 055 005, G 055 162, G 060 162; ZF S671 090 255.

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