Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 3/26/2020 at 8:18 AM, GMC 2018 said:

wow I had the same exact thing happen to me yesterday, Traded in my 19 AT4 5.3 for a 2020 AT4 with the 6.2 and with only 2 miles on it i go to start it and it was slow to turn over. when it did the check eng light came on. I looked at vehicle diagnostics and it had a few voltage codes. so i drove around for about 30 min turned it off waited 20 min and restarted started right up and the check eng light was gone. I was a service advisor for 4 years at a chevy store and from my experience anytime you have a dead or dieing battery you will get a slew of erroneous eng codes b/c there are so many computers on these thing and they are very sensitive to how much voltage they get and will fault if its not exactly right.... 

what is the dealer telling you ?

EXACTLY, well said. 

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, Colossus said:

EXACTLY, well said. 

I now believe you are correct. Not driving much right now and not having the problems mentioned before. I know my truck sat for several months before I bought it with the AGM battery that died. Now that it's been replaced the problem seems to have gone away. If only I knew how to remove the old P25A2 code produced. My Autel code reader wont remove it.

 

Posted (edited)

Unfortunately I can add my name to this list. Yesterday pulled my truck out of the garage to do a big spring cleaning. A couple hours later pulled it back in, it stumbled a little pulling it in which I thought was odd. About 9pm I went to move it out again so I could get to something I needed in the garage and it was dead. Only thing that would work was lock/unlock on the key fob. Hooked it up to battery tender/ charger all night, and it still wasn’t showing it charged this morning, but it did start. It had a bunch of codes, check engine, check brakes, etc... so I drove it to my dealer. It ran funny on the way, lag/ hesitation off the line, brake pedal clicked every time I presses it, shifted funny, which my truck hasn’t done any of these previously. To the dealers credit, without any appointment they took in my truck and gave me a loaner Tahoe. We’ll see what they come back with.

Also, it’s a 2020 Rst with 750 miles.

Edited by Fireman02
Added text
  • 1 month later...
Posted
4 hours ago, [email protected] said:

2020 RST 1200 Miles. Wife just went to go out and Key Fob was not working......grabbed the spare.....nothing. Popped the hood battery was at 5v........WTF! I looked at he alternator cable connection per the recall but everything looked great. 

To me it seems there is a parasitic draw in these trucks as this is happening abit at a dealership Im at.  Acura had the same problems would drain the battery turned out to be the Bluetooth modual in those. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2020 GMC Denali 96 days old and was introduced with a dead battery yesterday morning.  GM roadside assistance was no help. Had to call AAA to jump start the truck which the battery was completely dead 0% charge.  GM dealer did not have any advice other than bring it in.  OnStar sent two notices about the low battery charge.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Having the same issue right now with my 2020 RST 6.2L.  2125 miles on it.    Battery dead and won’t start.  It’s the second time it’s happened. I had an airbag kit with compressor installed and thought that may be the issue but doesn’t sound like from other posts that this is the issue.  
 

 

Posted (edited)

My 2020 Silverado is back at the dealers (for the second time) dead battery. Second time on the flatbed with only 1700 miles on the Odometer. Not a happy camper. I was a Ford guy who switched to Chevy...

Edited by HarleypsychRN
Posted (edited)
On 6/15/2020 at 4:32 PM, Jsharpe said:

Having the same issue right now with my 2020 RST 6.2L.  2125 miles on it.    Battery dead and won’t start.  It’s the second time it’s happened. I had an airbag kit with compressor installed and thought that may be the issue but doesn’t sound like from other posts that this is the issue.  
 

 

So the Tow truck guys arrives and says to me "Yea, I tow a lot of these 2019 and 2020 Silverados" (honestly, I'm not making this up).

Edited by HarleypsychRN
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Have the 2020 1500 AT4 3.0 now for 4 months and have loved it. Came out this morning and same issue. Not a blip of power. no dome lights, nothing. Had a 2015 2500 Dsl denali that started giving me fits way too early. GM needs to get their act together.

Posted

2020 AT4 3.0. 2200 miles. Dead battery and drove the truck a few days ago and it was just fine. Hope I can get it started and then I'm going to take it to the dealer and see what they say. Frustrating as hell to have a dead battery on a 3 month old truck. 

Posted

Hey guys, reposting from another thread:

 

7/6/20: I may have everyone beat on my timeline to frustration. Just purchased new 2020 GMC AT4 from Van GMC Buick in Scottsdale 3 DAYS AGO! The assembly date is June 20, 2020! It ran great the first two days... day 3, won't start. Total of 170 miles on the truck. Same issues that everyone has noted. Came outside, tried to open her up with the key fob and the battery was completely dead. Had to open manually. Push start did not function, no power whatsoever... basically a $65k brick in my driveway.

 

Connected battery to wife's Explorer and got the dash to light up but it wouldn't start. Tons of error messages. Kept trying to start it and it finally lights up... but was running very rough with knocking. This morning, started it up and it ran great. Dropped it off at dealer and they tell me there are no codes, it's running fine, the alternator and the battery look good. So I send them the videos below and a link to this thread... No word yet but will keep you all posted. So incredibly frustrating. Love the truck but now have to worry about this... what happens if it doesn't start when my family and I are in the middle of the woods camping/hunting? Ridiculous. 2020 could not get any worse. 

7/8/20: UPDATE: Dealer thinks they found the problem: Loose UBEC Bolts. There was a recent bulletin posted on 6/26/20 about this that may be the cause for this issue as a whole. Ask for document ID 5628169 or the following title for the GM bulletin: #PIT5756: Various Electrical Concerns (Inspect UBEC Bolts for Being Loose) - (June 26, 2020). SEE ATTACHED

 

Condition: Some customers may comment on any number of electrical related symptoms. The following are some of the known reported ones:

  • no crank
  • no start
  • starter grinds or re-engages after engine starts
  • SES MIL
  • IPC guages sweep/fluctute and/or various IPC warning lights or messages
  • High or low system voltage
  • May have any of the following DTC's: B1325, B2750, B305D, B297B, C0049, P0562, P0700, U0100, U0101, U0102, U3006
  • some of these concerns may be noticed with powertrain movement, like when accelerating or braking. 

 

Cause: These concerns could be caused by the X50A underhood fuse box bolts being loose. The X50A has built in indicators which pop up as the X50A bolts are tightened down, to inidcate the X50A is fully installed. In some cases, even if these green indicators are popped up, the bolts may still be loose. 

 

Correction: Inspect the X50A Underhood Fuse Block bolts and verify they are properly torqued to 53 lb in (6Nm)

 

Dealer stated that my box was indeed loose (that's what she said). Has not been able to replicate issues. Really hoping this is the fix for my truck and all of yours. Will update forum either way. Best of luck. 

 

UPDATE: 7/14/20. I have had no issues with the truck so far. I start and drive it every day. I really hope this was the simple fix; hopefully you guys give it a try and it works. You can do this fix yourself. I've attached the bulletin for everyone here. Good luck. 

BUELLTIN (1).pdf

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/13/2020 at 1:44 PM, Brandon Boles said:

Have the 2020 1500 AT4 3.0 now for 4 months and have loved it. Came out this morning and same issue. Not a blip of power. no dome lights, nothing. Had a 2015 2500 Dsl denali that started giving me fits way too early. GM needs to get their act together.

My friend, the battery issue is not limited to GM, it's all across the automotive board.  Too many computers onboard, too many gadgets to control.

 

Posted
12 hours ago, Colossus said:

My friend, the battery issue is not limited to GM, it's all across the automotive board.  Too many computers onboard, too many gadgets to control.

 

With all due respect (and I was just talking to a neighbor about this the other day), they are putting too much electronic crap on these vehicles. I've had trucks (63'Int, 87 Dodge Dakota, 07' F-150) that I actually had to open and close the tail gate myself (Gasp). With the importance of the 1500 segment to the sustainability of these companies, they are all racing to have the most and greatest features and it's coming back to bite them in the a**. 

When I spend over $50K on a new truck, I expect it to start.

Posted

Doesn't matter how much you spend.  Even high end crap like Benz and BMWs and Lexus are having the same engine.  How much you spend doesn't mean crap anymore.

 

Posted
On 7/13/2020 at 1:44 PM, Brandon Boles said:

Have the 2020 1500 AT4 3.0 now for 4 months and have loved it. Came out this morning and same issue. Not a blip of power. no dome lights, nothing. Had a 2015 2500 Dsl denali that started giving me fits way too early. GM needs to get their act together.

If your 2015 Sierra was junk, why did you buy another one? With customers like you, what incentive does GM have to actually improve their products? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...