Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 9/1/2020 at 12:38 PM, JohnTz said:

Just checked mine. About 1 turn each bolt to tighten. Never had any problems but wanted to be proactive on this. Thanks for the heads up. 

Going to check mine in the morning!  Did you have to disconnect the neg battery terminal or can you just tighten it with a ratchet?

Posted
4 hours ago, Shiva said:

Going to check mine in the morning!  Did you have to disconnect the neg battery terminal or can you just tighten it with a ratchet?

I just tightened them. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Wow, guys - thanks for posting all of this. The battery in my 2020 Sierra is dead with no explanation but with lots of warning lights and guess what -  because of YOU, I was able to find this and relay the information to the dealer.

 

Why does it have to be me to come to the rescue? Granted, it is not yet fixed - but it sounds exactly like the issue at hand.

 

Yes, this needs to be recall.

Posted

Mine went back to the dealer Monday on a rollback for the second time with this issue. I also informed them of this problem but still have not got my truck back. I also told them I wanted a new battery since this was the second time and this time the battery was drained down to 2 volts.

Posted
21 hours ago, John Bro said:

Wow, guys - thanks for posting all of this. The battery in my 2020 Sierra is dead with no explanation but with lots of warning lights and guess what -  because of YOU, I was able to find this and relay the information to the dealer.

 

Why does it have to be me to come to the rescue? Granted, it is not yet fixed - but it sounds exactly like the issue at hand.

 

Yes, this needs to be recall.

Okay, I just got my vehicle back BUT - the UBEC bolts were already at 53lb. They could not find what drained the battery. And, given what I am reading here, it is just a matter of time before it happens again. This sucks so hard - got a new vehicle because I have no time for such problems right now at all. Like several of you.

 

But will report back with anything further. I plan to drive by there in a couple weeks and have them check the battery.

Posted (edited)

I have a 2020 AT4HD and its now in the shop for the 7th time since March.  This the 4th time the battery has died.  Actually already had an appointment for squealing brakes for the 3rd time (separate post).  I just called them about tightening the fuse box bolts and gave them the service bulletin number.  I had to give them the service bulletin number about the brakes too.  Why are we having to tell GMC mechanics how to do their job.  This is ridiculous.  I expect they will tell me...again....that the battery is fine and there is nothing they found to cause it.  I hope its the bolts....still hoping to get rid of the brake squeal too.  

 

UPDATE:  I picked up my truck yesterday and as I suspected the mechanic said he could not reproduce the squeal on the brakes.  I had showed a video of it to the service tech.  They also said battery tested fine and they could not find the problem.  I showed them the service bulletin reference posted above, but they couldn't find it in their system.  I got home and checked the bolts on the fuse box and mine were one full turn lose as well.  I hope that resolves the issue with the battery.  

Edited by RossEGCA
Posted

because issues that are not very common are not going to be known by all the service departments and there are so many service bulletins out there for all the vehicles that no one memorizes them.  This forum allows for the very few people experiencing the issues you are to come together and ****** and complain and look for help, thus the bulletins come up in conversation and we get to inform the dealer service departments.   The REAL good mechanics will look for TSBs while the others will just shrug their shoulders and say "can't duplicate issue."  or "Issue is normal" 

  • Haha 1
Posted

just tightened my bolts after having electrical issues ... they were all 1/2 turn shy of TSB recommended torque and green indicators were popped ... guessing this was engineering torque miscalculation ... wonder what manufacturer torque specs were ... will see if this addresses issue

Posted (edited)


Hello, all. I found this forum looking for the same issue that happened to me today. i have a 2020 sierra denali with the 6.2. I was slowing at a light and as soon as I came to a full stop the truck jerked and everything went blank. no power to anything. no hazards nothing. it was rush hour and everyone was blasting their horn blah blah blah.. anyway. (oh no onstar since no power) I got the dealer on the line and they came and dropped off a loaner and had the truck towed to their shop but it was late so they will look at it in the AM. I suspect the battery issue too or the ground terminal mentioned in another post but I have only had it 3 days. 200 miles and only 50 of them are mine.. anyway, the tow driver tried to jump it so he could get it out of gear and nothing at first then he used a different jump pack and the lights kicked on but still not enough power to start it, at least he got it out of gear so he could put it on the truck... 

 

Its a lease, I traded my 2017 sierra denali lease in for this. the 2017 never had one issue. I hope I dont have trouble with this thing, I am scared to drive it any distance out of fear it will do it when Im far from home or on the highway.. I had no lights or power brakes, steering no brake lights, no hazards it was completely dead, if that happend at night on a busy road It could have caused an accident.. scary stuff. 

Edited by Joemahma
Posted
10 hours ago, Joemahma said:


Hello, all. I found this forum looking for the same issue that happened to me today. i have a 2020 sierra denali with the 6.2. I was slowing at a light and as soon as I came to a full stop the truck jerked and everything went blank. no power to anything. no hazards nothing. it was rush hour and everyone was blasting their horn blah blah blah.. anyway. (oh no onstar since no power) I got the dealer on the line and they came and dropped off a loaner and had the truck towed to their shop but it was late so they will look at it in the AM. I suspect the battery issue too or the ground terminal mentioned in another post but I have only had it 3 days. 200 miles and only 50 of them are mine.. anyway, the tow driver tried to jump it so he could get it out of gear and nothing at first then he used a different jump pack and the lights kicked on but still not enough power to start it, at least he got it out of gear so he could put it on the truck... 

 

Its a lease, I traded my 2017 sierra denali lease in for this. the 2017 never had one issue. I hope I dont have trouble with this thing, I am scared to drive it any distance out of fear it will do it when Im far from home or on the highway.. I had no lights or power brakes, steering no brake lights, no hazards it was completely dead, if that happend at night on a busy road It could have caused an accident.. scary stuff. 

It's extremely alarming that GM has not had a fix for this issue.  These trucks have been having this issue since they the first one was sold.  I don't have anymore fate in mine.  Every time I drive I keep waiting for something to go wrong to the point where I don't enjoy driving it.

 

I had a 2018 F-150 Platinum Ecoboost with no issues.  Just liked the Denali styling better.  Will drive this until the warranty period is up and probably go back to Ford or see what the new Tundra looks like.

Posted
13 hours ago, Shiva said:

It's extremely alarming that GM has not had a fix for this issue.  These trucks have been having this issue since they the first one was sold.  I don't have anymore fate in mine.  Every time I drive I keep waiting for something to go wrong to the point where I don't enjoy driving it.

 

I had a 2018 F-150 Platinum Ecoboost with no issues.  Just liked the Denali styling better.  Will drive this until the warranty period is up and probably go back to Ford or see what the new Tundra looks like.

Ya I bought a brand new tundra even though its flawless Id love to get this new one. 

Posted

Found this thread after 2020 Silverado 5.3L Trail Boss 7500 miles was totally dead.  Built 01/2020. Took forever to jump it. All the codes tripped. Theft, anti lock brakes, traction control, etc... Drove it home and the engine light stayed on. Started next morning and afternoon with no problem but the check engine light was still on. Parked in my driveway and popped the cover to the fuse box under the hood and found the 4 bolts mentioned in this thread were approximately 3/4 of a turn loose. Tightened them up. The very first start up, the next afternoon, no problem and the check engine light was out! Still took it to the stealer that day and they couldn't duplicate the problem. Cleared the codes, checked battery and connections. All was good. Didn't mention the fuse box bolts just in case they'd void my warranty. Stealer didn't mention they checked the fuse box bolts so they must not be aware of the problem. Thanks to all of you who post and help! Others like me truly appreciate the time you spend sharing your knowledge. Kevin. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

2020 Trailboss, 6.2L with 7200 miles, owned it 4 months and battery was completely dead overnight. Was able to jumpstart and drive to dealer where they replaced it with a new AC Delco battery. Hopefully, that won't happen again for at least several years....

Posted

2020 Sierra AT4 5000 miles. Today was the second time my truck was completely dead. First time was over night,  battery wasn’t able to be jumped or changed had to get towed to the dealership. They replaced battery and said it was a bad cell. This time the truck was sitting for 3 days, once again completely dead and can’t jump or charge battery enough to even shift from P to N.  Looks like it’s getting towed again tomorrow morning. 

Posted

F me... just joined this club.

 

2020 3.0 totally dead.  3 hours on a charger, not even a light.  Tow guy had the industrial jumper.  Got it in N and hauled it off.

 

can’t wait to hear the BS from service advisor..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...