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Posted (edited)

DCF689E8-4CB4-4D2F-A582-F233AB77A074.thumb.jpeg.c6fd0cfdb695e4dad7e4fcfb356827fa.jpegHello guys & lady mechanics, 

I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???

 

1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.

which is my next question,

2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? 

O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣

 

3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? 
 

My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum

differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…

 

Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. 
 

Happy holidays you’ll

Dave 

5E47E1C7-05BB-431E-B600-EE34D795C201.jpeg

Edited by Tech Machine-Tool-Repair
Misspelled words
Posted

A 10.5 would be a full floater where you can remove the axles without even touching the rear diff.

 

To remove the axles on a 9.5 you just have to remove the cover and the pin on the differential. Then push the axles in to let the c-clips fall out.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Tech Machine-Tool-Repair said:

DCF689E8-4CB4-4D2F-A582-F233AB77A074.thumb.jpeg.c6fd0cfdb695e4dad7e4fcfb356827fa.jpegHello guys & lady mechanics, 

I’m in the process of replacing my rear disc brakes, it has 4Wheel anti loc disc brakes. I have the rear rotors with the interior surface for the parking brake shoes. I have new rear backing plates and hardware. But I noticed a little bit of a runout in the axles, I’m assuming it’s normal bearing wear. It has 175,000 miles on it. Plus the brake lines rusted and caused a pedal to the floor issue for me, so I replaced every single brake line with all new stainless steel lines, and new brake hoses. It has new rotors and pads upfront. What I’m trying to find out, since it’s a 14 Bolt GM differential in the rear, what exactly do I have???

 

1) Is it a 9 1/2 inch ring gear, 14 bolt rear end, or is it a 10 1/2 inch ring gear 14 bolt rear end? Where can I find this out. I need to order bearings and seals, and a pinion seal which is leaking.

which is my next question,

2) how do I determine what size my pinion seal is before I order one? 

O’Reilly shows 8 options 🤣

 

3) Last question is, I’m assuming I’m going to have to pull the cover, remove the locking pin for the limited slip differential, and push the axle in, pull the retaining clip, and pull the entire axle out to get to the seals and bearings, correct? 
 

My plan is to put a new B&M aluminum

differential cover and fresh fluid once this is all done…

 

Lastly I wish I would’ve found this side or search prior to doing my brakes, I would’ve found out that GM was offering half off To replace all new brake lines for $500. It’s done now though. 
 

Happy holidays you’ll

Dave 

5E47E1C7-05BB-431E-B600-EE34D795C201.jpeg

Looks like you have a 10.5" full floater according to the blurry picture.  Like Cam says, no need to go inside the pull the shafts.  2500s in that generation didn't run the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater.

Posted
1 hour ago, swathdiver said:

Looks like you have a 10.5" full floater according to the blurry picture.  Like Cam says, no need to go inside the pull the shafts.  2500s in that generation didn't run the 14-bolt 9.5" semi-floater.

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

Yes that’s exactly what it looks like, it does not have the bolts that you can take the hub off at the end of the axle. 
 

This was a very early 2000 new body style Silverado, standard 2500 4x4, & not the HD model. He bought it new in April 2000, and they only had three door extended cabs around here then.

He only put 1900 miles on it, he said he really liked the truck, he had a stroke and died over memorial day weekend. 
 

so how do I know what size pinion shaft I have? So I can order the front pinion seal for it… Am I gonna get to take out a caliper and measure

  • Like 1
Posted
27 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Yes they did. Tons or 2000+ trucks ran the 9.5 semi float rear axle in the 2500's.

 

His trucks looks like a light duty 2500 as well and not a HD, so my bet is that it's a 9.5 rear axle.

 

His axle would look like this once the lug nut cover was off.

 

screenshot_20180407_212958_9ef7235a2a355

Thanks, I didn't know there were two different 2500s.  I knew about the heavy half tons, boy they had a lot of options back then.  I've got one on my work bench too, with 6 lug axles.

Posted

I'd just buy both seals and return the one you don't need.

 

I rarely buy parts like these online because it's a pain in the neck if you are missing something or order the wrong part.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah I was thinking of doing the same thing. Get them from O’Reilly auto parts. Lotta stuff I buy from them has a lifetime warranty.
 

Thanks for the help you guys! 

 

 

  • Like 1

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