HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[300 Blackout]

Perhaps I did not understand the process. I also have projectors. I had thought folks were disassembling factory headlights and replacing the projector units.

You are correct. I replaced my factory projectors in my 2014 Sierra with Morimoto projectors. Totally worth the effort of the install.

[catpartsman]

Perhaps I did not understand the process. I also have projectors. I had thought folks were disassembling factory headlights and replacing the projector units.

That may be the case with some but the morimoto kits from TRS just require some wiring and a bulb replacement. I removed the air box and the plastic cover above the grill under the hood and the only reason I removed the cover was to conceal my wires and relays.

That kit is SUPER simple and well worth the money. If my wife’s car wasn’t a lease, I’d be doing it in a heart beat. I even did my mother in laws edge with that kit. Truly night and day difference.


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[Rob Okray]

28 minutes ago, catpartsman said:

That may be the case with some but the morimoto kits from TRS just require some wiring and a bulb replacement. I removed the air box and the plastic cover above the grill under the hood and the only reason I removed the cover was to conceal my wires and relays.

That kit is SUPER simple and well worth the money. If my wife’s car wasn’t a lease, I’d be doing it in a heart beat. I even did my mother in laws edge with that kit. Truly night and day difference.


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That is more along the line of my current capabilities. I became disabled a few years back.

[cbrsilv15]

He just added an HID kit to the oem halogen projectors.  Some guys, like myself, prefer the performance of an HID projector, because the projector is manufactured to use an HID bulb for maximum output.  Silverado's are very easy to swap, while the Sierra's require you to open up the headlight to swap the projector.

[truckguy82]

I swapped out my sierra projectors for d2s mini 4.0. I thought it was pretty strange that the oem projector seemed very high quality. As in build quality. Better than the d2s.

 

The actual beam sucked on the oem, but the hardware was nice. Very odd, almost like they intentionally made it that way. The lack of a sharp cutoff on the oem is because the lense is intentionally not smooth.

[Adam Waters]

I got mine installed last week and I do have some issues, all on the passenger side. I took everything apart and I've improved the rotation a little bit, but it's still not a clean cutoff. As you can also see, the passenger cutoff flares upwards. I've taken the whole thing apart, reinstalled the bulbs, tightened everything down but still has the bowl shape. Last item is that the passenger side doesn't seem as bright. Any suggestions on how to address these issues?

[FastWS6TA]

I got mine installed last week and I do have some issues, all on the passenger side. I took everything apart and I've improved the rotation a little bit, but it's still not a clean cutoff. As you can also see, the passenger cutoff flares upwards. I've taken the whole thing apart, reinstalled the bulbs, tightened everything down but still has the bowl shape. Last item is that the passenger side doesn't seem as bright. Any suggestions on how to address these issues?

That passenger side really looks like a bulb alignment issue. Is this the D2S 5.0?

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[Adam Waters]

3 minutes ago, FastWS6TA said:

That passenger side really looks like a bulb alignment issue. Is this the D2S 5.0?

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Yes it is - I originally had the rubber washer on that side and not on the diver's side so when I had it apart this weekend, I pulled the rubber washer off and just tightened it all down. Think I still need to do something extra in there to push the bulb into place?

[FastWS6TA]

Yes it is - I originally had the rubber washer on that side and not on the diver's side so when I had it apart this weekend, I pulled the rubber washer off and just tightened it all down. Think I still need to do something extra in there to push the bulb into place?

When you move the bulb by hand does it make the light output look better. Like can you seem to get it in a spot that makes it look correct?

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[Adam Waters]

5 minutes ago, FastWS6TA said:

When you move the bulb by hand does it make the light output look better. Like can you seem to get it in a spot that makes it look correct?

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I'll have to give it a try. The power that goes into those make me nervous so I didn't get in there with my hands at all with the lights on. I'll see if I can get in to the back of the bulb this weekend and see if I can move it and report back.

 

Could the dimmer light be due to the bulb position in addition to the pattern?

[FastWS6TA]

I'll have to give it a try. The power that goes into those make me nervous so I didn't get in there with my hands at all with the lights on. I'll see if I can get in to the back of the bulb this weekend and see if I can move it and report back.
 
Could the dimmer light be due to the bulb position in addition to the pattern?

Yes sir. Typically a distortion in the beam pattern is due to bulb position. Really nothing to go wrong with the projector typically. Issues with this type of retrofit are typically:
Bulb put of position or rotated
Bad ballast (doesnt fire)

These issues are not "common", but when there is an issue it would tend to be one of the above. I feel yours is bulb position.

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[cbrsilv15]

Looks shitty.



A little less shitty.



Now we’re talking. [emoji41]




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[kwOH]

I got these. They are built by Black Flame Customs.

https://blackflamecustoms.com/product/2014-2015-chevy-silverado-complete-hid-projector-headlight-retrofit-package/

[Jfaulk]

Need a little help trouble shooting. I bought the TRS 35w/4500k kit a few weeks ago and I'm just getting around to installing it. Everything is wired up but I'm not getting anything from either headlight. I checked the polarity of all wires/connectors and everything is black:black or clear:red:red. Battery+ and Battery- are secure at their respective terminals. I believe I have a good ground at the strut above the airbox. I used sandpaper to get to bare metal on that little nutsert. Is that correct or should I file that down until it is flush with the radiator support? Any other ideas of what my problem might be? Thanks. 

[Adam Waters]

36 minutes ago, Jfaulk said:

Need a little help trouble shooting. I bought the TRS 35w/4500k kit a few weeks ago and I'm just getting around to installing it. Everything is wired up but I'm not getting anything from either headlight. I checked the polarity of all wires/connectors and everything is black:black or clear:red:red. Battery+ and Battery- are secure at their respective terminals. I believe I have a good ground at the strut above the airbox. I used sandpaper to get to bare metal on that little nutsert. Is that correct or should I file that down until it is flush with the radiator support? Any other ideas of what my problem might be? Thanks. 

Switch your polarity. I had the same issue too. The clear is negative and the black is positive. They have it indicated on the other end of the plug, a + /-  is shown on there to confirm. Flip them and you should be good. 

 

- Adam