Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am guessing there is still no fix for this issue? I have had the same issue with my 2014 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab LT ever since I hit around 8k miles. I am now at 12k miles and have had my truck in the shop 5 times, at two different dealerships, still not fixed. At the first dealership, my tires were replaced because they were "out of round", my drive-shaft was replaced, checked my alignment and road force balanced my tires. After none of this worked, the dealership concluded that the vibration was within GM's "quality standards" and there was nothing else they could do for me. The second dealership said they had a new "vibration sensing device" that was sent to them by GM to detect issues such as this. After running their tests, they road force balanced my tires and called it a day. This is my 7th GM truck and I have never experienced such a rough and annoying ride quality, this truck drove like a Cadillac when it was first purchased.

 

Has anyone tried filing Lemon Law for this problem? This will be my next step and if that doesn't work, I will be selling my truck and switching loyalties.

Posted (edited)

I am guessing there is still no fix for this issue? I have had the same issue with my 2014 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab LT ever since I hit around 8k miles. I am now at 12k miles and have had my truck in the shop 5 times, at two different dealerships, still not fixed. At the first dealership, my tires were replaced because they were "out of round", my drive-shaft was replaced, checked my alignment and road force balanced my tires. After none of this worked, the dealership concluded that the vibration was within GM's "quality standards" and there was nothing else they could do for me. The second dealership said they had a new "vibration sensing device" that was sent to them by GM to detect issues such as this. After running their tests, they road force balanced my tires and called it a day. This is my 7th GM truck and I have never experienced such a rough and annoying ride quality, this truck drove like a Cadillac when it was first purchased.

 

Has anyone tried filing Lemon Law for this problem? This will be my next step and if that doesn't work, I will be selling my truck and switching loyalties.

If it rode smooth and now it doesn't it sounds more like a tire issue or the gears in the rear end wearing out of spec prematurely. Keep us posted and its probably easier to get the dealer to buy it back as a trade rather than lemon law. Carmax is a great place to sell I vehicle as well. They quoted me 15k for my 06 z71 with 80k miles on it. Edited by 20Bowtie14
Posted

Did the 85mile drive to weekend house, and agree w/ those who have stated hotter temperatures increases vibration. As a reminder, in case Jennifer from GM customer care ever checks back in our now 151 pge post, that my vibration mostly begins at 72-73mph and continues thru 80mph. Does not matter if transmission is in manual mode in 5'th gear, neutral coasting, or in drive and in 6'th gear. 2014 Crew Cab short bed, 6.2 SLT w/ 3.42 gears and Z71. I will add, the more time I spend behind the wheel, now with 5900miles on the truck, the more it feel like this maybe transmission or torque converter related. This transmission just feels so out of sync with the engine and gas pedal, always trying to shift to next higher gear, well before any of us would probably want for real world driving conditions. Transmission feels sloppy to be blunt, especially in around town driving at under 45mph and stop and start conditions. I have had multiple road force balances, new exhaust system which is larger diameter than stock but a GM system which has flapper valve removed, a new driveshaft, and dealer even tried shims in rear leafs to change the pinion angle in rear end, and I use a Range V4 mode disabler. None of which have made any improvement at all in reducing the high speed vibration. I now always drive the truck in manual transmission mode so the transmission is not as annoying. GM why don't you respond to your customers here?

Posted

When I took my truck in for the recall on the relocation of the coolant line they also updated the TCM and the ECM. I didn't realize that was a required recall. After they did that my vibration was 10 fold worse. It was tolerable before the reprogramming. My truck has been in for 2 weeks while waiting for and now installation of my new ring and pinion. Getting close to my threshold of toleration. Remember, this is my 2nd truck. About ready to just ask for my money back and go look at Ram or Ford. Getting damn ridiculous.

This is actually really good feedback, because if an adjustment to the Trans control module made the problem worse, then we can surmise that the problem lays within the trans. This would explain why some people have no vibs but we all do...there's no doubt a problem with some of the transmissions GM used, and we happen to have those in our particular trucks. I still have a case open with GM, and on Monday I'm going to ask that they focus on the transmission..particulary the CM, pump, and torque converter. They've been through everything else on mine with no change in symptoms so sooner or later the trans is going to have to be investigated. I hope they replace the whole darn thing so I can actually drive my new truck without that sick feeling I get when I need to get on the highway. I dont even like driving this truck right now, because I feel like there's a failure and breakdown coming my way. This isn't why you purchase a new truck.

Posted

This is actually really good feedback, because if an adjustment to the Trans control module made the problem worse, then we can surmise that the problem lays within the trans. This would explain why some people have no vibs but we all do...there's no doubt a problem with some of the transmissions GM used, and we happen to have those in our particular trucks. I still have a case open with GM, and on Monday I'm going to ask that they focus on the transmission..particulary the CM, pump, and torque converter. They've been through everything else on mine with no change in symptoms so sooner or later the trans is going to have to be investigated. I hope they replace the whole darn thing so I can actually drive my new truck without that sick feeling I get when I need to get on the highway. I dont even like driving this truck right now, because I feel like there's a failure and breakdown coming my way. This isn't why you purchase a new truck.

 

Wow. Maybe this is the breakthrough we needed. Has anyone had a transmission replaced as a result of the vibration? I am going to call the dealer who also opened a case with GM on Monday and update him on my vibration, which is only seemingly getting worse, as well as this topic of transmission and torque converter. I just drove home the return 85 mile trip I took on Friday and reported on, and without the rest of the family in the truck all I did the entire rise home was focus on this incredibly annoying vibration. I drove the entire way in manual mode mostly in 5'th gear, even tried 4'th in the 72-80 mph zone and it made no difference. I can now feel more vibration in my steering wheel, my passenger seat makes a noise w/out my wife in it, and even my driver's side mirror now giggles w/ the vibration. See my previous post re suspecting the transmission. GM where are you?
Posted

I'm wondering if anyone is having these vibrations issues in the 2015 tahoes or yukons?

Wondering the same thing.....

 

Sent from my HTC One mini using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm seeing everyone with 5.3 and 6.2 with this problem. Any 4.3 guys have it?

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Posted

I don't recall, this is a long thread, but has anyone that has a tune installed on their truck have the vibration issue? If the trans and torque converter is a possible cause, then wouldnt it be reasonable that the tune would change these, ie.. Torque lockup and shift points?

Posted

Leviblue was thinking same thing. We did have a post regarding someone with the vibration who added slight lift and larger wheels and tires and it DID NOT help the vibration problem. A trans tune would be interesting but if it's a tolerance problem in the trans, wouldn't think changing shift points would matter. I am going to try calling my dealer with open repair on record with GM and report updated feedback and ask specifically about new transmission

Posted

Looking for advice. Bought my silverado June 27, 2014. After the first day noticed the shaking/vibration in steering wheel and accelerator pedal. Googled the issue and came upon this forum. I have been following it ever since. My truck now has 1400 miles and has been in the shop twice. 1st service consisted of them saying that two of the Goodyear SRA's were out of round and were replaced. This did not fix the problem. 2nd service consisted of them changing a 3rd tire and replacing all four shocks. This dampened the vibration in the steering wheel considerably, but I am still feeling the shaking in the pedal, center console and other interior parts. The service manager advised me that the second try fixed all issues and that if I was not happy then they were advised to involve the District Manager. I called yesterday to bring it in for another attempt at fixing the vehicle and was told that they would need to contact the district manager before any further work done to the vehicle. After not hearing anything in 24 hours i called back and was advised that they still do not have an answer for me because the district manager is now talking to GM about "what the next plan of action is". Very unhappy with the truck and it seems that they know there is a problem and I am about to get told there is nothing else they can do. 2014 Silverado, crew cab 4x4 LT w/ 5.3 and 3.42 gears.

Posted (edited)

Looking for advice. Bought my silverado June 27, 2014. After the first day noticed the shaking/vibration in steering wheel and accelerator pedal. Googled the issue and came upon this forum. I have been following it ever since. My truck now has 1400 miles and has been in the shop twice. 1st service consisted of them saying that two of the Goodyear SRA's were out of round and were replaced. This did not fix the problem. 2nd service consisted of them changing a 3rd tire and replacing all four shocks. This dampened the vibration in the steering wheel considerably, but I am still feeling the shaking in the pedal, center console and other interior parts. The service manager advised me that the second try fixed all issues and that if I was not happy then they were advised to involve the District Manager. I called yesterday to bring it in for another attempt at fixing the vehicle and was told that they would need to contact the district manager before any further work done to the vehicle. After not hearing anything in 24 hours i called back and was advised that they still do not have an answer for me because the district manager is now talking to GM about "what the next plan of action is". Very unhappy with the truck and it seems that they know there is a problem and I am about to get told there is nothing else they can do. 2014 Silverado, crew cab 4x4 LT w/ 5.3 and 3.42 gears.

 

I can't offer much advice as it seems your dealer has done a ton more for you than what mine has done for me. Mine told me to "wait for a tsb." I am currently looking at other brands and will not ever own another GM.

Edited by M1Tanker
Posted

We're so screwed. If GM is not willing to admit this is a problem and help, then we owe it to ourselves to advirtise to as many people as possible thru as many means via internet and thru different forums the truth about this pathetic lack of GM customer support to a address a very obvious mechanical defect. Apparently GM assumes if they ignore us the problem will go away. Total BS as we all bought what was supposed to be the best pickup truck on the market after the updates GM made. Lawyers, lemon law, internet postings. I have only posted once outside of this forum about this. Time to step it up. I hate driving my 2014 GMC Sierra that I spent over $50,000 on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems.   True story. One winter day no long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses more gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...