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jeffziss Enthusiast

jeffziss

Posted
Posted

Update:

Got a call from the dealer today after requesting a buy back from general motors and it has been approved by the district manager. The only catch is I have to buy another Chevrolet which is not what I was interested in. So with that being said I am thinking about asking if they can put me in a 2016 Camaro. I am not interested in another silverado and don't really need a truck anyway. Just wanted one. Anybody else get something different with their buyback other than another truck?

I just finished trading in my 2016 with 600 miles on it after the buy-back. Be careful of the deal they give you, as not all buy-backs are the same. They would only let me get some of equal or greater value. I would have done the corvette but I already own a GT500 and was not impressed with the Vette (By the way, the Vettes have valve issues. There are forums covering that.). I took the 2016 praying it wouldn't vibrate and my prayers were not answered. First chance I had, I converted it to the Tundra.

 

Be ready for "why are you trading in a 2016?" the first Toyota dealer was well aware of the vibration issue and had no interest in the truck, even with only 600 miles on it.

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csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

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jmckeone Enthusiast

jmckeone

Posted
Posted

So I finally have an arbitration hearing set for Jan. 7th with GM and the BBB for my 2014 Silverado. The paperwork has GM denying a buyback request and asking that I continue to work with GM per the terms of my warranty coverage so I guess we are going to fight it out! For anyone that has been to an arbitration hearing are there any tips you can offer? I have all my evidence which includes witness statements and videos of the vibrations. Im hoping I get an offer ahead of time like many other but I want to be prepared just in case.

  • Like 1
abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

Abominable,

 

Did you have a chance to test the clamps this weekend with the front ones, distance from the original u-bolt etc? Thanks!

Nope, second set is still sitting on the workbench, it has been raining here for the past 4 days which is a good thing because we need the water her in CA. Unfortunately it puts most testing on hold because traffic on the freeway slows a bit and gets congested making it hard to get a nice stretch at 75 mph.

 

You have the 305 55 20 XL g2's in 4 ply correct? Any difference in vibration between them and the factory tires? I noticed my vibration is more pronounced with the 10 ply toyo's I was thinking of making the switch to the G2's in a 305 60 18, whats the road noise like with them? The at II extremes are pretty load for an at tire much louder than the BF Goodrich KO2 for sure, never been in a truck with the G2's.

hotrodz37 Senior Enthusiast

hotrodz37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nope, second set is still sitting on the workbench, it has been raining here for the past 4 days which is a good thing because we need the water her in CA. Unfortunately it puts most testing on hold because traffic on the freeway slows a bit and gets congested making it hard to get a nice stretch at 75 mph.

 

You have the 305 55 20 XL g2's in 4 ply correct? Any difference in vibration between them and the factory tires? I noticed my vibration is more pronounced with the 10 ply toyo's I was thinking of making the switch to the G2's in a 305 60 18, whats the road noise like with them? The at II extremes are pretty load for an at tire much louder than the BF Goodrich KO2 for sure, never been in a truck with the G2's.

 

I'm driving about 2 hrs to see my family for Christmas, so I am going to put those clamps on before I take the drive - hopefully it will yield positive results!

 

Correct on the size and I like the Nittos a lot! They ride great for their size and aggressiveness. I also had P 275-60-20 Toyo AT2's and I like the Nittos better. The Nittos are pretty loud as well which I don't mind too much. Around town they sound cool, and on the highway they are drowned out by the radio.

 

As far as the vibes go, the Nittos are about the same, or slightly less than the Toyo's I had, and I am thinking thats bc of the little bit extra sidewall and "fluffyness" if you will.

 

One thing to note with the Nittos - very strange occurrence and I am still scratching my head but on initial installation they all road forced under 13# which I was thrilled with for such a big tire. Had a bit of a shimmy so I went back and had them put on the Hunter RF balancer. One tire was at 33# another at 24#. So they ordered 2 new tires and those checked out at 9#. Had another rear checked, it shot up to 20# when initially it was at 11#. So now on my truck I have 2 9# tires, 1 4# tire, and 1 20# tire. Going to see if I can have the 20# rotated on the rim and force matched. That being said, all of them required less than 3oz of weight and one only took .75oz which I was thrilled with.

 

So long story short, I think you would be very happy with the Nittos, but just make sure the numbers check out once mounted.

Edited by hotrodz37
Wrench589 Enthusiast

Wrench589

Posted
Posted

I'm started to question this whole "Road Force" thing. Not the concept, as I completely understand it. But, it seems that it doesn't matter what brand or model of tire, they are continuely changing. One minute a tire is 13#, then all of a sudden it's 33#. If that s truly happening, what's the point of RF balancing in the first place. If the tires are not repeatable, and for whatever reason they are changing their Road Force Variation that much, then the entire notion becomes pointless, and the only solution is a vehicle that isn't so sensitive to RFV.

 

Something just doesn't add up here.

  • Like 2
abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

I'm started to question this whole "Road Force" thing. Not the concept, as I completely understand it. But, it seems that it doesn't matter what brand or model of tire, they are continuely changing. One minute a tire is 13#, then all of a sudden it's 33#. If that s truly happening, what's the point of RF balancing in the first place. If the tires are not repeatable, and for whatever reason they are changing their Road Force Variation that much, then the entire notion becomes pointless, and the only solution is a vehicle that isn't so sensitive to RFV.

 

Something just doesn't add up here.

I agree, it seems like these numbers are constantly changing depending upon variables that cannot be controlled, ie. temperature, atmospheric pressure, tire wear and so on, it would explain why the vibrations seem to be different on the same stretch of road depending on weather conditions. my dad just bought a 15 silverado even though I advised him not to (die hard chevy has had at least 1 of every body style from a 53 5 window to the 15 he just bought). If it doesn't vibrate after 5000 miles or so I'm going to start swapping parts and the first thing is going to be the rear end.

hotrodz37 Senior Enthusiast

hotrodz37

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree, it seems like these numbers are constantly changing depending upon variables that cannot be controlled, ie. temperature, atmospheric pressure, tire wear and so on, it would explain why the vibrations seem to be different on the same stretch of road depending on weather conditions. my dad just bought a 15 silverado even though I advised him not to (die hard chevy has had at least 1 of every body style from a 53 5 window to the 15 he just bought). If it doesn't vibrate after 5000 miles or so I'm going to start swapping parts and the first thing is going to be the rear end.

 

I'm test driving an F-150 on Thurs morning when I get home for Christmas. Have an ex gf from high school who's dad owns the Ford dealership in town. (we ended on good terms which is why I can still talk to him) haha

 

Abominable - on another note, are the rear clamps still keeping vibes at bay? I know they returned with the body lift, but still good with the clamps even though you haven't be able to get out much?

Edited by hotrodz37
abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

I'm g an F-150 on Thurs morning when I get home for Christmas. Have an ex gf from high school who's dad owns the Ford dealership in town. (we ended on good terms which is why I can still talk to him) haha

 

Abominable - on another note, are the rear clamps still keeping vibes at bay? I know they returned with the body lift, but still good with the clamps even though you haven't be able to get out much?

Not really at freeway speeds. Still preventing the vibrations during hard acceleration but very little affect on the freeway vibe

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

Gm obviously has no intentions to fix the issue so someone crunched the numbers at corporate and obviously know they are going to lose customers but it must be less than the cost to fix it.

hotrodz37 Senior Enthusiast

hotrodz37

Posted
Posted (edited)

Seriously going to look into just eating the loss and looking at a tundra , whether I keep this shit box or not it will be the last gm product I ever purchase

 

I'm in the same boat. I think the gm twins are the best looking trucks out there but I would love to test drive a tundra. My only concern with the Tundra is that they are due for a model update and I would hate to buy one only to have it look outdated in a couple of years. But I guess that's what happened with GM when they decided to facelift the 2016s and make my 2 yr old truck look outdated haha

Edited by hotrodz37
  • Like 1
Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

okay guys, i tried to pick up what you were laying down regarding vibrations (made it back to page 470 LOL) how bad is this vibe? in the steering wheel? in the floor boards? i just bought a 2016 and it rides quite well, small vibe in v4 but, i figured it was a result of the v4 mode and the borla exhaust. Is this vibration really really noticeable? i obviously don't have it but, am concerned it is an issue. And not confused with the buffeting experienced when you roll down the rear windows lol

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

I'm in the same boat. I think the gm twins are the best looking trucks out there but I would love to test drive a tundra. My only concern the Tundra is that they are due for a model update and I would hate to buy one only to have it look outdated in a couple of years. But I guess that's what happened with GM when they decided to facelift the 2016s and make my 2 yr old truck look outdated haha

Yeah I feel you, 4 months after I bought mine they released the new design with new features, I guess that awlays the problem you face when buying most things just hurts more when it's a $50k truck that is already a POS 2000 miles into its life

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted

Anybody have chrome plastic clad wheels that this is happening to? Steel wheels? Anybody tried slamming their truck or extending the air dam down? Perhaps it is air velocity related? I don't have it but am interested in what people have tried. Things i've seen so far: Drive shafts, ring gears, differentials, wheels, tires, body mounts,motor mounts, tranny mounts. Things i have not seen: transfer cases, cv shafts, transfer case drive shaft, bearing hubs. not much left after these components is there? My condolences to those with this issue.

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