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Shake or Vibration Issues

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tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

Having a leveling kit doesn't get them off the hook. Blaming tires is an excuse. "In spec" is also an excuse. Aftermarket stuff doesn't allow them to skirt the warranty. They use this wording to turn you away. It's not like you turned the sheet metal inside out.

Preaching to the choir brother.

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csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

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Rolling Thunder Enthusiast

Rolling Thunder

Posted
Posted (edited)

With all the varying attempts to correct this issue, and I DON'T have the vibration syndrome, I took my truck to my independent tire sh0p to have my wheels / tires (OEM 275/55/20 All Season Continental) balanced before a long trip. My truck has 1,600 miles on it. I use this shop for everything that is not a wheel or tire warranty issue for new tires, balance, TPMS, etc.

 

Previously I had driven on the Interstate up to 75MPH out of curiosity using the "water bottle test" and witnessed a little shaking, certainly not enough to become a Vibrator Member so this aroused my curiosity. Before the wheels were balanced I asked the guys at the tire shop "How are the factory OEM wheels and tire balances?"

 

They replied "Normally they are pretty good."

 

Mine were not:

 

  • Left front: had factory 1/2 oz and it needed 1 1/2 oz added.
  • Right front: had 1 oz and needed 2 1/2 oz total.
  • Right rear: had factory 1/2 oz and needed 1 oz total.
  • Left rear: had 1oz and needed another 1 oz for a 2 oz total.

 

Took the truck back onto the Interstate with the "Water bottle test" and voila! Hardly a ripple @ 65, 70, and 75 mph..

 

What's the moral to this story? Damned if I know but don't trust a factory wheel and tire balance and I wouldn't always trust the dealer to do a "dead-on" warranty balance either. I had to pay for this independent balance of course but it was worth it to me.. This was not a "Road Force Balance."

 

Edit: Almost forgot the tire / wheel assemblies were checked for "out-of-round" and they all were less than 1/32 inch with 32 lbs tire pressure (.0315).

Edited by Rolling Thunder
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

With all the varying attempts to correct this issue, and I DON'T have the vibration syndrome, I took my truck to my independent tire sh0p to have my wheels / tires (OEM 275/55/20 All Season Continental) balanced before a long trip. My truck has 1,600 miles on it. I use this shop for everything that is not a wheel or tire warranty issue for new tires, balance, TPMS, etc.

 

Previously I had driven on the Interstate up to 75MPH out of curiosity using the "water bottle test" and witnessed a little shaking, certainly not enough to become a Vibrator Member so this aroused my curiosity. Before the wheels were balanced I asked the guys at the tire shop "How are the factory OEM wheels and tire balances?"

 

They replied "Normally they are pretty good."

 

Mine were not:

 

  • Left front: had factory 1/2 oz and it needed 1 1/2 oz added.
  • Right front: had 1 oz and needed 2 1/2 oz total.
  • Right rear: had factory 1/2 oz and needed 1 oz total.
  • Left rear: had 1oz and needed another 1 oz for a 2 oz total.

 

Took the truck back onto the Interstate with the "Water bottle test" and voila! Hardly a ripple @ 65, 70, and 75 mph..

 

What's the moral to this story? Damned if I know but don't trust a factory wheel and tire balance and I wouldn't always trust the dealer to do a "dead-on" warranty balance either. I had to pay for this independent balance of course but it was worth it to me.. This was not a "Road Force Balance."

 

Edit: Almost forgot the tire / wheel assemblies were checked for "out-of-round" and they all were less than 1/32 inch with 32 lbs tire pressure (.0315).

 

You have 20" Rims and Continental tires? At least you didn't get the Good Year LS-2"s I have what looks like 6.0 inch strips of these newer style fancy looking weights on my Chrome Clad Beauties! Probably would put me in the vibrator camp after stripping all that nonsense off on the LS-2's

Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

I finally dropped the stock 20s. Got a ridiculous deal on a set of 18" wheels in December and went with 275/65R18 tires. The extra sidewall helps with smoothing out the ride.

 

Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk

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Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Got rid of my 20's finally after identifying a bad wheel and/or tire. Actually, what was probably two. Went over to 17" forged wheels with new tires and now she rides damn good, I actually enjoy driving my truck on the highway now. Any residual vibration is due to the rear drop shocks being valved for a bigger truck so I have a set of QA1 adjustables on the way that should help smooth out the bump vibration.

 

My 20's were balanced 3 times, but only static balanced every time. A dynamic balance or road force balance may have fixed this problem, but it was a good excuse to cut over 100lbs of unsprung weight from the truck.

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Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Yeah my 22's are 100 lbs ea. Crazy heavy!

 

RT

I can only imagine, my rears barely break 50lbs each and the front's are only 45lbs. Quite the weight savings on the unsprung side.

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

 

100ea ??? My 22's weigh less then the stock 20's only by 2lbs..

Edited by wuznme
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

So this is completely off topic, but my brother wrecked his car yesterday, ripped the axle right off the damn thing. I'm planning to specify some of the parts that the shop uses such as Timken hub assemblies and wheel bearings, going to use aftermarket headlights and I want to specify a new axle/ CV axle. His car is a FWD 2014 VW Jetta, does anyone have recommendations? I know we are trucks here, but I figured I'd ask. Really hoping it didn't f*ck up the tranny. Anything else I should make special note of?

 

thanks

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

Yeah my 22's are 100 lbs ea. Crazy heavy!

 

RT

 

Jeesh......100LBS each =400LBS? Come on man! 9% of your trucks weight is Rims? Come on man.................

Amuro Enthusiast

Amuro

Posted
Posted

Well my truck has about 9500 miles and got new bfgoodrich ko2 275/55r20 yesterday. One out of the four wheels needed too much wheel weight, 3.25 to be exact. Next Monday I'll be taking the truck for a fuel issue I'm having, they are installing a new fuel tank and gonna have them check that rim that ask for all that tape weight and again complain about the vibration issue I'm having at 75-80 mph.

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have CK156 Reps, I'm surprised they were lighter, the first set of wheels had specifically looked for some light wheels and these were even lighter.

 

 


Are yours after market wheels? These are GM CK160's. LOL

 

Edited by wuznme

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