Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks guys!

 

SlavO, actually working out of state, my trucks at home. Bought it 9 months ago, only have 2300 miles on it!

This is the best I have from behind...

0308150905_zpsx6almemx.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Anyone with the RC 2.5 hearing noise coming from the rear suspension?

It seems like I only notice it when backing up or going very slow. It isn't really a pop more of a squeak. I'm really not sure exactly how to describe the sound.

I have been noticing it for a wile now and don't think its a big deal. I even took it to the alignment shop and asked them to check it out. I'm just tired of hearing it.

Posted

Going to be putting on a 2.5 front level and 18" Moto Metal 970's (+18 offset) in a little over a month. Can't decide what tire size I want to go with. 275/70/18? 285/65/18? Any others anyone can think of? Thanks in advance

Posted

Thanks guys i'm running 275 60 20 right now but want to put on 305 55 20 bfg all terrain but just not sure if they will rub?

On stock 20's you'll be rubbing the upper control arms and sway bars at full lock with a 305(12.5") wide tire. I have stock 20's with 295/55r20(33x11.5) Toyo AT2 Xtreme tires that rubbed the UCA lock.

 

I'm now running 8mm wheel spacers so my wheel offset is like a +19mm now, stock 20's are +27mm. That's the thickest you can go to remain a safe amount of wheel stud. They just clear the UCA now but I can still get them to touch if I crank the wheel to max in reverse.

 

If you want ZERO rubbing on stock 20's a 285 is the widest you can go.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

295/55/20 ATII is 32.8x12.2x20 according to toyo's specs. 285/55/20 is officially 33x11.5x20 for some brands, of which i've only seen the trail grappler and ATZ P3 in. I love the stock rims but don't want 20s. I honestly suggest for those wanting to run 12+ thick tires to just go ahead and invest in a rim with 0-12mm offset so you can do so without worry.

 

http://toyotires.com/tire/pattern/open-country-at-ii-on-off-road-all-terrain-tires?cat=10

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

Anyone with the RC 2.5 hearing noise coming from the rear suspension?

It seems like I only notice it when backing up or going very slow. It isn't really a pop more of a squeak. I'm really not sure exactly how to describe the sound.

I have been noticing it for a wile now and don't think its a big deal. I even took it to the alignment shop and asked them to check it out. I'm just tired of hearing it.

All the RC kit does is replace your block and u bolts. There may be some dirt in between the block and leaf spring. I'd clean them and double check the u bolts are tight.

Posted

Anyone with the RC 2.5 hearing noise coming from the rear suspension?

It seems like I only notice it when backing up or going very slow. It isn't really a pop more of a squeak. I'm really not sure exactly how to describe the sound.

I have been noticing it for a wile now and don't think its a big deal. I even took it to the alignment shop and asked them to check it out. I'm just tired of hearing it.

Mine did the same thing. It was the OE Rancho shocks. Sounds like that's your culprit.
Posted

Thanks fellas. I will start by making sure its clean If that doesn't solve it I'll look at some new shocks.

Posted

Thanks fellas. I will start by making sure its clean If that doesn't solve it I'll look at some new shocks.

Unbolt the bottom of each shock and drive around a parking lot or something. See if the noise is gone.
Posted

Although I'm doubtful do you think the dealer would replace them if that's what it is? Or would they bock about being leveled? They only have 13k on them.

Posted (edited)

Although I'm doubtful do you think the dealer would replace them if that's what it is? Or would they bock about being leveled? They only have 13k on them.

I tried to get my dealership to replace my shocks but they couldn't replicate the annoying squeak, of course. I figured I'd rather have bilstein 5100's than a new set of OE ranchos anyways.

 

If they can get the shocks to squeak I don't see why they wouldn't replace them. And no, I highly doubt they'll say boo about your leveling kit.

Edited by 14x4
Posted

Anyone have some pics of a truck running RC 2.5 leveled on Toyo Open Country MT or Cooper Discoverer STT on

285/65/17 or

285/65/18 or

Very close to that size, any opinions y'all have let me know, thanks in advance!!

Posted

Installed my RC 2.5" Lift and Toyo Open Country AT2 Xtreme LT295/55/20s on factory wheels yesterday, and couldn't be more happier. Ride is really unchanged, other then the LT tires. Tires make a little road noise but nothing compared to how aggressive they look. Sits about 1 1/4" higher in rear, which is what I wanted, do to towing my boat. Can't stand the sagging look. Tires have a slight rub on the swaybar at full lock but nothing major. I think I can live with it but if not I may try a small wheel spacer and see if that helps. I'll post a few pics when I get her cleaned up this weekend.

Posted (edited)

2" RC front level, stock rear, measures F-38.2 and R-38.8" ground up to lip of fender trim molding and running Toyo Open Country ATii eXtreme 295/55/R20's 10-ply at 40-psi on OEM 20 x 9-27mm wheels. I also replaced the OEM 17" spare with a matching OE Denali wheel Toyo OC tire of the same size.

 

Does have the slight rub on sway bar at full lok when making slow radial turns, i.e. parking lots, tight spaces. Since I'm aware of it I tend to compensate when parking or reversing and its not anything significant that I worry about. For me its the perfect stance, appears level to the naked eye and drives perfect.

 

In terms of road noise/feedback I can tell (hear) a difference between what were the stock GY SRAs and the Toyo's but its not obtrusive particularly with the windows up which for me is most of the time.

post-128133-0-22597700-1427284603.jpg

post-128133-0-22597700-1427284603.jpg

post-128133-0-22597700-1427284603.jpg

post-128133-0-22597700-1427284603.jpg

Edited by rewillia
  • Like 3
Posted

One thing I like about my Cooper Discover AT3 is that they are just as quiet as stock, and are known to be a great off pavement tire.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...