Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Guys
 
I’ve read every single post in this thread, but I’m simply confused on what I need to do for my truck. I have a bone stock 2018 Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate 4wd (22” wheels). I’m simply trying to raise the front of my truck up to level with the rear. I plan to keep the same stock wheels and tires. Can someone tell me what I need to get?
 
Thanks for the help. I’m not knowledgeable about vehicles and I need some help deciphering all the info I’ve been reading.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
a42764225ab0a937139cef24caaceacf.jpg
You end up pulling the trigger on a level yet? I'm in the same boat now.
Posted

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

Posted
9 hours ago, Slick66 said:

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 4WD that I had a locally manufactured 2.5 inch kit installed by a reputable shop which included 2” blocks in the rear. I love the new stance of the truck but now it has a vibration felt in the floorboard of the truck. Nothing through the steering. Any suggestions?

 

What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.

Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Are the rear blocks tapered? If they are straight that could be a possible source of the vibration since you are changing the pinion angle. I am on the fence with doing an add a leaf or a +1" tapered block from readylift myself.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
 
What did the shop say about it?  That's the first place I would go.
Sorry didn't mean to quote yours.***

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 10:53 AM, bhales said:

2 inch RC Level front nothing changed in the rear and 285/60R20 Ridge Grappler

before and after 

 

before.jpg

after1.jpg

Nice truck (twin).  You say you did the 2" up front only but in your signature you mention the 2.5.  Did you do the full RC 2.5 kit or did you do just the less expensive option and lift the front only? 

Posted

I did go back to the shop and discuss it with the owner. He just blamed it on the change in pinion angle and stated that the new angle should seat itself after about 500 miles. He also stated that he had installed this kit in many other trucks with no issue. 

Posted

I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 

Posted
I am not sure if the rear blocks are tapered or not. They were used rear blocks from another truck that he had performed a lift on. I think that I am going to remove them and reinstall the stock blocks just to see if the vibration goes away. 


You can get tapered blocks from just about anyone. Look to see if if the rear blocks have a slight angle, looking from rear to front your rear blocks should have a slight angle downwards towards the front of your truck. Not having the right blocks will definitely give you vibrations and it’s an easy cheap fix.


Sent from above
Posted

Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 

Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 
Pinion angles don't "seat themselves". That's just them trying to say they did nothing wrong. The block kit i plan to buy that I would recommend is in the pic. I used ready lift blocks and u bolts on my old Silverado with zero issue.
I would strongly recommend replacing the u bolts if you go with another kit as they have a tendency to stretch when they are torqued. One benefit to the ready lift u bolts is they utilize fine thread pitch, where the oem is coarse. The fine thread pitch has more mechanical advantage when torqued and will not come loose. The oem u bolts are prone to loosening (happened to me when i bought my truck, and numerous others on posts i have read). Good luck. 22de9080d6d8173928309dd27a89d8f1.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
Thank you. I will definitely check that out. Any idea how much of taper the blocks should be? I read on another post something about 2 degrees. 


It’s going to be more of a universal slope but most of all you should know it’s all going to be worked out. As soon as you can, take a side pic of your rear blocks. Where are you located?


Sent from above
Posted
I am located in Northern Florida. 


Look for 4wheelparts, they’ll be available to help you. Call them and ask to speak with the manager, tell him you were told to contact them and get assistance with an issue. Don’t tell them where you had it done, just tell the manager your issues. IM me if you need assistance.


Sent from above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like things to be more nailed down. For instance. People ask why my father left a multi million dollar business in NJ in the seventies and started over in Texas. The answer is simple, payola, threats and quality of life. He didn’t like the game. And he didn’t want his kids to be wrapped up in that mess. That’s nailed down no guessing. 
    • So any kind of deviation is not permitted. Even if it manages to touch on Oils Chain intervals only if, it addresses your latest threat. Boring.😴 
    • The tailgate of pickups is not designed to be water tight. There are seal kits for them but I doubt they work effectively. But, I've not tried them. I always have hard folding tonneau covers and the BakFlip brand has been my favorite. And, for the most part, the bed stays dry. I would invest in some bins that can be closed to better protect sensitive stuff. 
    • A properly installed tonneau will keep out 95% of the water.  As others have said, the only way to be completely dry is to either get a topper or an SUV.   I've run virtually all the trifolds and hard rolling that are out there.  My thoughts:   1.)  The leak points of any cover will be the front corners, and around the tailgate.   They will also leak if the rails are not installed properly.  If you take a electric/cordless ratchet and snug down the clamps, you run the risk of overtightening which causes the rails to sag.  When the rails sag it creates a gap between the rail and the bed cap and this lets water in.   2.)  Different manufacturers use different methods to try and seal the front.  The "driest" setup is probably the Leer HF650M, which uses double seals all the way around and doesn't require a foam seal across the front edge of the bed.  The Realtruck trifold covers (Bak, Undercover, Gator, etc...) all use a foam seal across the front, and drain tubes.   3.)  Realtruck has standardized the way that the cover attaches to the rail.  With the exception of the Extang Endure ALX, all other Realtruck covers use a plastic clamp which slides into a channel, hooks onto the edge of the rail, and tightens down. The "Realtruck Advantage" covers sold by GM dealers as an OEM accessory still use the "bolt through the panel" installation method.  Problem with these is over time, water gets past the rubber seal, into the panel, and once they become waterlogged they begin to delaminate (and weigh a ton.)   4.)  Unless you are using GM Rewards points, buy your cover separately.  Realtruck offers a 5 year warranty on BAK, Undercover and Extang covers.  Gators get either a 2 or 3 year warranty.  If you have an issue, they are much easier to deal with.  If you have an issue with an OEM GM cover, you have to go through the service department and GM Warranty processes to get it taken care of.   Recommendations based on my experience:   Hard folding:   1.)  Undercover Ultra/Armor Flex (identical except Ultra has carpet on the underside and a smooth finish.  Armor has no carpet but has a Line-X coating on the outside.) 2.)  Leer HF650M.  Has 4 panels instead of 3.  Double seals to keep the water out.  Downside is only a 3 year warranty and warranty only honored if you purchase from a Leer dealer.  If you have your dealer install it or buy off Amazon they won't warranty it. 3.)  Bak MX4.  They sell a ton of them.  A good cover for the money when you can find one on sale.  About to be redesigned to include a spring to ease opening and closing. (Supposed to be released 7/26.  Bak MX4 EZ-Lift)   Hard rolling:   Bak Revolver X4S or X4TS (has t-slot rails.)  Personal favorite and the one I use on my truck.  Easy to roll up one handed.  Doesn't block the rear window.  Only costs you about 6" of the bed when open as opposed to a retractable canister which eats up about a foot of bedspace.  Downside is it's either all the way open or all the way closed.   Good luck with you search.    
    • Does any of this change if the seller dropped the price to $22.5k?  Mechanic is supposed to verify the transmission concern but they have not got back to me yet.  Even if a transmission needed to be purchased, I'm looking at <$30k which puts me right back to where I started.   In the meantime, I test drove 2 trucks locally back-to-back, one Denali and one SLE, the SLE was noisy, jerky, and did not inspire confidence, while the Denali was over $30k but just sold the other day.  If $32k buys you a Denali with 100k miles and this truck can be had for $32k with a brand new transmission, with GM parts warranty, does that skew things?   FWIW, all the trucks I drove locally had a much worse service history - emissions work, valve body work, one even had the whole transmission replaced with lower mileage than the one in TX.  I'm guessing those were "short trip" vehicles, as they only racked up around 100k miles in 6 years - a lot less than 164k miles in just under 6 years.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...