Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is a epic fail on gm's part. Multi billion dollar company and they can't fix there seat. Come on gm you look lazy and greedy.

Posted

With all the millions of recalls GM is having right now we are last in line, much like the ignition problems they are having someone will have to have a serious accident before it gets addressed..

Posted

Thank you to hotrodz37. Just did this fix with a 3/4" hose clamp and some spare rubber laying around the shop. Works great and no more seat movement.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I too have this problem, 5500 miles. I have not spoken to my dealership yet, but will do this soon. Odd that I can trace this forum thread way back to last year and GM has not been able to fix this automatically for their 2014 vehicles built this year.

Posted

I have done the hose clamp and rubber fix to my Sierra and it has worked FLAWLESSLY the past week. I am so happy I can drive without tightening my cheeks around turns :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you have any part #'s off the work order? I'm interested to know what exactly they replaced? Much appreciated and please report back in a couple weeks to see if the repair holds.. Thank you from us all...

Posted

I'll let you know. They did it last week and it's been fine since. They had to order in the part took 2 or 3 days. They also totally redid the frame and no more rust or chipping. Total removal of the grease/wax then under coated black. They do about a truck every 3 days.

Posted

I did the rubber and clamp fix a week and a half ago and it's been great ever since. It's certainly made the driving experience so much more enjoyable!

Posted

I really haven't followed this thread since I got rid of my first truck with its moving seats. I'm glad someone found a "fix" for a problem GM can't seem to figure out.. I'll keep this in mind if I have any issues with mine. Thanks hotrodz for the clever fix. BTW I clamped my adaptive valve open w a hose clamp too lol.

Posted

I have moved it every way possible and mine is still holding strong. Go for it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Is your fix still holding up? Looks like I will be heading to the hardware store tomorrow !

Posted

There is supposed to be a redesigned part to fix this issue, still waiting on it to arrive but once it does and gets installed I post a picture.

Posted

There is supposed to be a redesigned part to fix this issue, still waiting on it to arrive but once it does and gets installed I post a picture.

 

I went ahead and did the hose clamp fix today and it completely eliminated it. Will have to see how it holds up. Hopefully it holds till the new part comes out.

Posted

I have only had my truck for two weeks and maybe it was my imagination, but I was hearing a click when I went around a curve. I didn't feel any movement, yet. So I decided to try to do the DIY fix on page 19 of this thread as a preventative measure to support the existing hardware.

 

The 1" hose clamps were no problem to find, but I wasn't sure where to find the clamps with the rubber insert. Anyway, long story short if you want to do this the clips in the photo below were what I used. I found these in the electrical section (near the electrical conduit) in Lowes. These clamps were 1 inch and I didn't need the total amount of rubber so I clipped off what wasn't needed on the hose clamp. Easy fix, just hope it keeps me from getting the full fledged problem. Ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure?

 

You can see the product and product #. The Lowes item #48633

 

Each pack came with one clamp and was $1.68.

 

Some of you may have already known where to find these, but I had to hunt. I thought I would share the info in case there was someone else like me out there searching for these.

 

You can see the unused clamps and the excess rubber I trimmed off in the picture below.

 

 

00223A15-3823-44EE-9099-D09E06F2E33F_zps

Posted

I have only had my truck for two weeks and maybe it was my imagination, but I was hearing a click when I went around a curve. I didn't feel any movement, yet. So I decided to try to do the DIY fix on page 19 of this thread as a preventative measure to support the existing hardware.

 

The 1" hose clamps were no problem to find, but I wasn't sure where to find the clamps with the rubber insert. Anyway, long story short if you want to do this the clips in the photo below were what I used. I found these in the electrical section (near the electrical conduit) in Lowes. These clamps were 1 inch and I didn't need the total amount of rubber so I clipped off what wasn't needed on the hose clamp. Easy fix, just hope it keeps me from getting the full fledged problem. Ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure?

 

You can see the product and product #. The Lowes item #48633

 

Each pack came with one clamp and was $1.68.

 

Some of you may have already known where to find these, but I had to hunt. I thought I would share the info in case there was someone else like me out there searching for these.

 

You can see the unused clamps and the excess rubber I trimmed off in the picture below.

 

 

00223A15-3823-44EE-9099-D09E06F2E33F_zps

I had a hard time finding those clips too. I ended up cutting a bicycle tube and putting the hose clamp over that. So far so good zero movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...