Jump to content

Radio Reception Issues


ace ventura

Recommended Posts

Posted

GM would be more involved in our truck issues if they were carrying the notes. We would have a little more leverage and maybe get these issues resolved.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Got xm radio. Lot better signal. Should be free since my radio fm reception is bad along with the HD signal.

Posted

Got xm radio. Lot better signal. Should be free since my radio fm reception is bad along with the HD signal.

Thats how I feel, I can't even use my FM cuz its so bad.

 

Reception issues resolved git me a 16

I'll be doing the same once my buyback through "Trade Assist" finishes.... then that thing will be going to either a Ford or Toyota dealer to be traded. between this radio issue, AFM issues, and Vibration issues. I'm done with GM for a while.

Posted

As a follow up, I feel a little stupid. My 2016 Mylink FM radio was performing worse in reception of stations than it was measuring on test equipment. The radio is 6 dB worse than normal GM radios, which means they only need a quarter of the signal power than mine for the same performance, actually this is not a lot and shouldn't be very noticeable. Well in actual use it appeared much worse. I don't drive the truck often and when I drove it over the last two weeks, it performed more like it should have being 6 dB deficient. The problem was I was testing during June and was getting atmospheric conditions that were bringing in more distant stations that made it sound like weak reception. (This happens the most in June, late May and early July, but can happen any time. There are two types, "sporadic E" and "tropospheric ducting"). From this, I would say that my 2016 Mylink FM radio is slightly worse than normal, but most folks probably would not notice it. I have to assume from what I have read here that the 2014 and 2015 FM radios must be much worse.

 

Now, I wonder if the 2016 radio module is the same as the 14 and 15? Can they be interchanged? If anybody has access to parts books maybe they can look them up to see if they have the same part numbers?

Posted

No, none of the modules are interchangeable when brought straight from the dealer. When I was dealing directly with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line and the engineer in the infotainment area that was one thing they said several times, nothing from the 2014 to 2015 to 2016 is interchangeable in regards to the infotainment system.

Posted

No, none of the modules are interchangeable when brought straight from the dealer. When I was dealing directly with the Chief Engineer over the entire truck line and the engineer in the infotainment area that was one thing they said several times, nothing from the 2014 to 2015 to 2016 is interchangeable in regards to the infotainment system.

That is so stupid haha, they should make parts like that interchangeable

Posted

I've looked around and the modules look the same so it is likely that the circuitry and software is changed so much that it wouldn't work with the display. You know, I believe the name on the module in my truck is LG, and the name on some of them on Ebay is Fujitsu. Maybe if the radio module still said Delco or Delphi we wouldn't have this problem. Hyundai and Honda radios seem to work OK, is it because of the specs that GM gives them or could it be radiation from the display? I wonder if they got rid of the Delco engineers and hired new GM ones to work on the "infotainment" system....if I wanted an Asian radio I would have bought a Toyota.

 

I had a 2006 Chevy truck, WT, 4WD. After two years I started losing speeds on my heat and AC blower. It seems that some likely young and semi brilliant engineers put the blower resistors inside the cab of the truck but on the BOTTOM of the air plenum where all the water goes. Then they made the support posts out of steel and built a little lake out of epoxy potting compound to retain the water and make sure the posts rotted out. All they had to do was look at just about every car with a heater in it from 1950 through about 1990 to see that you install things like that on top of a plenum so it will avoid water or drain. Automatic transmissions have been around since 1938 but it seems they can't get that right either. I used to work in an engineering group at a large corporation and for some reason they didn't want the older more experienced guys working on the new designs and we had a lot of good laughs watching the young guys re-invent the wheel. I think they used the excuse, "we need new ideas," instead of the truth that they wanted some lower paid people....probably what happened to Delco.

Posted

So I noticed the FM Static quite a bit the first month of owning my 16. I am within a few miles of the broadcast tower and tuned to the most powerful station in the city. I had hoped the April software update listed on this forum would solve the problem (my 16 is an early april build with Carplay and bose). The dealer did the software update today. i drove 30 mins home, all with 10 miles of the broadcast tower. The reception was so bad I couldn't stand to listen to it. it would cut in and out, and the sound has a constant light static in the background. It sounds just as bad in HD on or off. My subaru gets this station crystal clear 60 miles from the city. I'm a few miles from the freakin tower and can't get it clear. Needless to say i feel sick to my stomach having just shelled out my hard earned money on a $53k pickup, with a $500 up-charge for Bose speakers to hear the extra fine definition of the static noise.

 

So my question, is it even worth the hassle to have the dealer go through the motions of trying to replace the actual radio head unit? From other's comments, it probably won't solve the problem. Xm sounds okay, and so does music from my phone, so i don't think its the speakers.

Posted

Did not help on one of my 2014's. Had one module replaced. Not going to fool with the other one. Talking with GM but no offers for help.

Posted

I drove from New York to Colorado and back in my father's 14 Silverado and never heard any static like my 16. Although his is the work Truck radio.

Posted

I would complain about any problem including radio, not sure what it will get you, but always good to be "on the books" for a problem just in case they ever decide to do anything about it. Who knows, it could be a problem with only yours? I noticed that the signal to noise on my 2016 Mylink FM never appears to get any better than 19 dB. That is horrible performance for an FM radio. You might be hearing the digital sidebands as well in the analog audio. You can't be sure what you're hearing, let the dealer figure it out. They may not be able to make it worse.

Posted

Oddly if I put the equalizer to the "talk" setting, the static is not really that noticeable. But the music sounds terrible then. Soon as I turn up bass and treble the static is terrible

Posted

BTW. I looked up my favorite country station. I am 6.8 miles from a class b 50,000 Watt broadcast tower that is 400 feet tall. When I tune to the other 50,000 Watt station that is 2.5 miles away it comes in pretty clear. So as long as I don't go more than 5 miles away...

Posted

Generally, my radio reception is OK, except for ONE AM channel. It sounds like i have a speaker going out with hiss/fuzz and scratching. If I change AM channels, it goes away. It;s unique to that one station.

 

strange... Sometimes i like talk radio.


Oddly if I put the equalizer to the "talk" setting, the static is not really that noticeable. But the music sounds terrible then. Soon as I turn up bass and treble the static is terrible

Bingo, my situation exactly...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...