Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Got around to pulling all the parts out to make sure I have everything. The engine should be out tomorrow and hopefully new parts will start going in. 
 
quick parts list 

-L86 manifold with additional port injections. (will be installed with 50lbs injectors but won’t be hooked up just yet)

- 2000cc meth injection 

- Borg S476 with billet wheel

- Cam Motion turbo cam

- BTR .660 dual valve spring

- Johnson 2110R lifters

- CHE trunnions

- Turbo Smart WG / BOV

- ARP head and main studs

- L86 OEM crank

- GPI “drop in” pistons and rods

- OEM head gaskets 

- custom Garrett core intercooler

- Derale trans cooler (will be under the bed). Removing the 40k Trucool from up front. 
And a bunch of other little stuff. 

ECE1CC3F-86B2-4F0D-AF5F-0003449A5459.jpeg

Edited by CajunFries
  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

1500 PAGES?!!!!!  HOLY CRAP!!!!

 

Drove my truck for the first time in 10 days, $8/gal sucks, been driving my son's car or my wife's CR-V Hybrid, and driving my truck once every week or two.  As I was driving down the main drag in town, I heard something flopping in the breeze under my (open) sunroof.  I usually drive for about 10 minutes or miles with the sunroof in vent and shade almost closed, to draw the heat out.

 

1320097648_SunroofRTside.thumb.jpg.4356cb6eecb0312032a858694a05da7c.jpg

 

Found it to be a VERY simple fix.  Just re-engage the clip/slot from the front to the back.

352685560_SunroofRTsidefixed.thumb.jpg.3c08fc168e6981e4b9a488e7ff296f45.jpg

Edited by Ravenkeeper
  • Like 2
Posted
6 hours ago, Ravenkeeper said:

1500 PAGES?!!!!!  HOLY CRAP!!!!

 

Drove my truck for the first time in 10 days, $8/gal sucks, been driving my son's car or my wife's CR-V Hybrid, and driving my truck once every week or two.  As I was driving down the main drag in town, I heard something flopping in the breeze under my (open) sunroof.  I usually drive for about 10 minutes or miles with the sunroof in vent and shade almost closed, to draw the heat out.

 

1320097648_SunroofRTside.thumb.jpg.4356cb6eecb0312032a858694a05da7c.jpg

 

Found it to be a VERY simple fix.  Just re-engage the clip/slot from the front to the back.

352685560_SunroofRTsidefixed.thumb.jpg.3c08fc168e6981e4b9a488e7ff296f45.jpg

$8/gal?!?!? Where are you at?!???

Posted

I removed the plastic fender pieces and pulled the wheel well insert. Gave everything a good cleaning, then re-installed.

 

Super easy to do, don't need to remove the wheel. Just a T15 bit and a phillips screwdriver.

dirty1.jpg

pieces.jpg

dirty3.jpg

clean1.jpg

clean2.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

finally received the builtright bedside rack, I'm 2 days into a rather mean cold that has me wore out, I will try and piece it together in the next couple days

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/3/2022 at 9:32 PM, CajunFries said:

$8/gal?!?!? Where are you at?!???

Ok, I exaggerated a little bit.  Average price around Antelope Valley (Lancaster/Palmdale) is $6.75

Posted
9 hours ago, Ravenkeeper said:

Ok, I exaggerated a little bit.  Average price around Antelope Valley (Lancaster/Palmdale) is $6.75

Ahhh gotcha. I havnt been out there in a while. Used to ride at willow spring all the time. 

  • Like 1
Posted

10ft of heat sleeve for the AC lines and couple of wires and Heat shield for the battery trying to protect it from the heat from the turbo. 35D83E49-FC03-403F-81B9-2F4ED8B52782.thumb.jpeg.9b3e265033247dd0d6266fe5eac62bb3.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 6/7/2022 at 4:30 PM, YYC-SIERRA said:

I removed the plastic fender pieces and pulled the wheel well insert. Gave everything a good cleaning, then re-installed.

 

Super easy to do, don't need to remove the wheel. Just a T15 bit and a phillips screwdriver.

dirty1.jpg

pieces.jpg

dirty3.jpg

clean1.jpg

clean2.jpg

I am definately going to do this for my 18.

  • Like 1
Posted

Finally got a chance to test out my new electric pressure washer and foam cannon. Was too into the wash I forgot to take a picture of it all foamed up. Clayed/waxed after the hard winter neglect, full interior detail as well. Much needed!

 

Next week going to drop the trans pan and change filter/oil. 48k since the last time it's been changed and shifts are starting to firm up more than I'd like. Hoping to get as much life out of this 6 speed before I start getting the itch for a new AT4...

 

598601016_IMG_0021(1).thumb.jpg.45bdddc64ca36330457cbfabbf4e78c1.jpg

IMG_0025.thumb.jpg.bcafcd41371fdc1bed9936b446c3f057.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

What have I done for my K2 today. Well great question. I ended up finding a torn CV boot. Now researching my options. 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

Insulated the doors with ccf and ccf/al. Sounds better for sure. Now to chase down a door panel rattle. 

20220618_164552.jpg

20220618_161516.jpg

Edited by Snowcamo
  • Like 5
Posted

finally got around to getting the builtright bedside rack system together.

comes with absolutely ZERO instructions, not a big deal but assembling some of the quickgrip stuff it would be nice to have a general idea of how it is supposed to be, there website has some install guides but none for chevy 

I have a bedliner installed so it has complicated things a little bit, the bottom attachment is not ideal it is a U shaped bracket but should be a u-bolt or a j bolt or at least have a L leg so you can turn it and snug it up that way, the way it is it now it just binds up so I bought some longer bolts and sleeves at the hardware and will finish it up in the morning.  I may end getting a u-bolt and drilling a couple holes in the rack I could not find one that would fit the existing holes

PXL_20220617_225438981.jpg

  • Like 6
Posted
On 6/18/2022 at 4:16 PM, maillet282 said:

What have I done for my K2 today. Well great question. I ended up finding a torn CV boot. Now researching my options. 

Had my passenger side rip late last year. Easiest and quickest option IMO... replace it. Took me about an hour, worst part is getting the dang thing out! Ended up having to remove the bottom 2 strut bolts, and sway bar end link which gives you some additional room with the lower control arm dropped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...