Jump to content

Headlight Issue


RyanStrong

Recommended Posts

Posted

It's not an HID kit its a LED kit. I think the ballast looking thing is what they are referring to as the controller to power them.

 

As far as a comparison, I'm really not sure as I sold my 35w Mori kit before I ever installed it. They have a comparison side by side on their site with one of the morimoto kits. The link to the LED thread has a couple comparisons as well. They won't be better than a true hid retrofit, but shouldn't be far off from the hid kits using oem projectors. I'll post plenty of pics soon as mine arrive.

 

 

 

-Britt

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Installed the Philips 9011 HIR bulbs last night. Had to trim the ribs from socket took about 10 minutes easy. Bulbs are much brighter than the standard 9012 have a much whiter look. They have a higher wattage draw 65 than the stock 55 watts. Hope the extra current draw does not damage anything. Think over all good improvement worth the $50.00 spent. Have the stock 9012 in the console as spares.

Posted

Thanks Skeeter, I'm just looking for a backup plan in the even my MOTO kit starts to fail... like many are claiming. I just want something reliable...and better than stock.

Posted

The two interior lights flicker when the car is in Drive, the headlights are on, and I touch the brakes or put the left turn signal on. This disconcerting at night... it doesn't do it for a right turn signal, only the left.

 

And it stopped doing it the other day while it was raining!

 

I think it is some sort of grounding fault. My plan is to check out the rear left tail light assembly, reseat the bulbs and check the connections. (It could also be a ground fault in one of the doors, but they don't have old-fashioned contact switches any more; they appear to have switches connecting the door handle to the control module!)

 

If those non-intrusive checks on my part don't cure it, it is off to the dealer with it.

 

Anything similar on your end?

Regarding the interior light flicker (headlights on, when touching the brake or putting the left turn signal on) -- the GMC dealer tells me there is a TSB for this item (the invoice cites DOC ID:4009590) and the solution is to order a new overhead console. Not sure what the problem REALLY is, e.g., ground fault, bad circuit, etc. -- but I am encouraged by the fact GMC knows what causes it and seems to have a solution. The part comes in next week or so!

Posted

Had my 2014 Sierra now for two weeks made the first long night drive last weekend could not believe how bad the headlights are. i stopped one time and checked to see if only the fog lights were on. Been looking at the HID kits they all seem to have too many problems. Might be fine around a city but i would not trust them between Anchorage and Fairbanks at -30. i just ordered replacement bulbs Philips 9011 HIR see if that helps. A very nice truck other than the terrible headlights. Hard to fathom.

 

I finally installed the 9011 bulbs in my 2014 Sierra, which is a wonderful truck. The new bulbs are better -- I'd say 20% better. Worth it for me -- since I am not going to go with a high-end upgrade kit (maybe later). Thanks to all for the suggestions and the directions on modifying the bulb base.

Posted

 

I finally installed the 9011 bulbs in my 2014 Sierra, which is a wonderful truck. The new bulbs are better -- I'd say 20% better. Worth it for me -- since I am not going to go with a high-end upgrade kit (maybe later). Thanks to all for the suggestion and the directions on modifying the bulb base.

Which brand? I NEED to do this.

Posted
Posted

Thanks!

Posted

Final comment: the driver's side is easy, the access cap on the back just needs a little leverage applied to turn it. On the passenger side, access is blocked by the air filter box. Four screws and the top is off; then the filter comes out; then you move the top out of the way (I disconnected it from the air intake and the wires on it, to make the next part easy). The bottom of the box is held in place by two rubber pins that push-snap into place under the box, so simply pull straight up on the box to make it come free. Then you'll have access a simple rubber shield with two pins, and then the bulb access cap under that! Easy enough -- maybe 30 minutes.

Posted

I've used Sylvania SilverStar bulbs in other vehicles in the past, so I queried Sylvania about the 9012 product:

 

"We are hoping to have 9012ST available next summer." was the answer I got late 2014.

 

This might be a decent alternative -

Posted

Drove a rural road for the first time at night. The low beams have no lateral throw, are out driven @30 MPH, and washed out by oncoming traffic.

 

The high beams were good to go.

 

Anyone else having this trouble?

Posted

Everyone is having that problem. Be sure to call your dealer and complain and file a formal complaint! There is a post on here where GM is finally trying something and none of us think we should have to pay for it. There are several posts on here about it and people spending hundreds of dollars to try to fix it.

Posted

I went to the dealer and the service writer adjusted them up. Said they are calibrated at the factory. I said that's not working out so well... I will test them tomorrow night but suspect my high beams will suffer. Filed a NHTSA complaint and will call GMC Monday.

Posted

I think you can alleviate the problem by merely readjusting the headlights a bit higher, but not enough to annoy the oncoming traffic. This will get you better coverage ahead.

 

Why the heck can't GM leave what works alone? (Nevermind, I know the answer to that question). My 2006 Silverado stock headlights and fog lights are really good. I never had to adjust any of them or replace a single bulb to date.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...