Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, Granite7 said:

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

@Granite7, is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete?

 

I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others?

 

 

Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

  • Like 1
  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

Granite7 Enthusiast

Granite7

Posted
Posted
[mention=205292]Granite7[/mention], is this picture with the truck loaded with the concrete?
 
I've got my front Bilstein 5100's at the top notch, and am thinking about a 1 inch taller block as well. What block did you use? Any predisposition between, say, Ready Lift and MotoFab or any of the others?
 
 
Some have complained that these are tapered, but with the front raised almost a couple of clicks, I guess that's to align the drive shaft better...any input with your setup? I hope not to have vibrations at 75mph, as I had a very nice riding truck when it was totally stock

Yes, that is loaded down. I was very happy to see it almost level!

I used the ReadyLift 2.25” blocks. They’re not perfect, but I felt their block design was stronger than other blocks on the market. I did have a problem where the bolt head from the spring pack didn’t want to seat into the dimple in ReadyLift’s block. Between the neighbor and me, we had the tools to mill out the pocket to fit.

I worried about the taper also, but I haven’t felt any vibrations or had any noticeable axle wrap. I like acceleration, but I’m old enough to drive like an adult. Speed limit here is 75, so 80-85 is not unheard of. Ride quality didn’t diminish as far as I can tell.
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Granite7 said:


Yes, that is loaded down. I was very happy to see it almost level!

I used the ReadyLift 2.25” blocks. They’re not perfect, but I felt their block design was stronger than other blocks on the market. I did have a problem where the bolt head from the spring pack didn’t want to seat into the dimple in ReadyLift’s block. Between the neighbor and me, we had the tools to mill out the pocket to fit.

I worried about the taper also, but I haven’t felt any vibrations or had any noticeable axle wrap. I like acceleration, but I’m old enough to drive like an adult. Speed limit here is 75, so 80-85 is not unheard of. Ride quality didn’t diminish as far as I can tell.

That looks really good for holding 1200. I'm with you, I dont need to go terribly fast anymore, I just know it was steady as a rock no matter what speed I brought it up to, and I'd like to keep it that way, as stable and steady as possible. So I'm optimistic 

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Ray Capobianco Enthusiast

Ray Capobianco

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Granite7 said:

I hauled 1200lbs of concrete tonight. All the bags were stacked to the rear of the rear axle, so this is almost the worst case scenario: 1450lbs out of my 1660lb max payload. I’m very happy with the minimal squat with my setup.
Front: Bilstein 6112 on the 4th notch 1.875”
Rear: Bilstein 5100 with 1” taller block (2.25”)

d4304e2f655b5baf71c0bef808bf3827.jpg

going to bookmark this setup for when my shocks eventually need replacing. 

this is perfect IMO 

  • Like 1
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
On 7/20/2020 at 11:55 PM, Sierra Jon said:

FWIW I ran helwig 987 heeler springs on my last K2 and it raised the rear up an inch and stiffened up the ride a little. Another option...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

 

@Sierra Jon , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted
 
[mention=138501]Sierra Jon[/mention] , is that enough to qualify as a heavy half ton or would you need the leafs fully swapped out with the 5 from a 2500?
No. That wasn't my intent either. I just wanted to improve the ride height (keeping the truck level) when towing my travel trailer.

There's other limiting factors like GVW and brake circumference that play into the HD payload.
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front?

 

Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper?

 

I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip.

 

Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2020 at 4:00 PM, Battle Born Offroad said:

No, but what can we help you with?

Please see my question in the post immediately above this one, if you happen to know.

 

Thanks

truckmann Enthusiast

truckmann

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2020 at 4:03 PM, ThundahBeagle said:

Well I'm wanting to know a professional shop's opinion (anyone's experience, really but for sure a 4x4 shop) on whether the removal of the 1.25" block and replacement with a tapered 2.25" block is actually a good idea on these trucks if I've just installed Bilstein 5100's at the top setting at the front?

 

Is the drive shaft angle within acceptible limits as is, or am I looking for trouble down the road if I dont install 2.25 inch blocks with a taper?

 

I've got a 5 or 6 thousand mile road trip - Boston to Big Sky and back- coming up in October and I dont want to cause an issue before and certainly not during that trip.

 

Sorry if some of this ground has been covered. I wanted to read this whole topic first. Git to page 40-something and went plaid. So I decided to cut to the chase

Pretty sure you will be fine either way. When I got my truck it already had a 2.5" RC lift in the front and stock block still in the rear. I replace the junk Ranchos with 5100s all the way around and added a MotoFab CH-2R 2" rear lift block because I didn't like that the rear was a little lower than the front. I've had no issues with how it drives with either rear block and it's been up to 130 mph with the rear lift blocks in. 

petie23 New Member

petie23

Posted
Posted

What upper control arms are you guys running? Suggestions, recommendations? I'm about to pull the trigger on some 6112's on the 4th setting and 5160's for the rear.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, petie23 said:

What upper control arms are you guys running? Suggestions, recommendations? I'm about to pull the trigger on some 6112's on the 4th setting and 5160's for the rear.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I have those shocks, 6112s on the highest setting, and I’m on stock control arms on my ‘15 Sierra NHT. They’ve been on for almost a year now.

  • Like 1
Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Do the 5100s have a "0" setting? I'm still trying to wrap my head around if they are for trucks WITH a level or can level themselves, or do both in combination.

 

I have a BDS 2" level that I am happy with. Truck sits perfect and drives fine. I have no interest at all in any extra added height, but I'm looking for some good shocks to tow with. The 4600s sound fine to me but they are for stock height apparently. That's fine for the rear, but again, I'm 2" higher up front. Does this imply that the 4600s would be too short and top out a ton with a 2" up front? Will the 5100s work in front for me without adding any more lift?

 

Since I'm here, how do the shocks lift anyway? Valve the fluid up and put all the pressure on an internal spacer/solenoid that provides the lift? I suppose I could delete the BDS and just do 5100 but I'd imagine the shocks would last longer if they weren't artificially trying to support the weight of the front end up. Maybe I have it all wrong?

 

Not looking to do any off-road. Just bought a max GVWR 7,000# travel trailer and looking for ideas to help keep it planted where it should be.

 

Thanks for any tips/info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...