Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Did you know that when the AFM cycles the torque converter clutch cycles to buffer the exchange? You can't actually feel the AFM. You are feeling the TC clutch. 

So once it warms up, you don't feel the clutch anymore? Would changing the fluid out to Mobil 1 make a difference in the 6 speed too?

Posted
2 hours ago, fishrman said:

So once it warms up, you don't feel the clutch anymore? Would changing the fluid out to Mobil 1 make a difference in the 6 speed too?

:dunno:

 

I doubt changing to Mobil 1 will do anything as Mobil is the supplier for AC-Delco aka same fluid in a different bottle.

 

The TCM is loaded with a learning program and will adapt to a degree based on your driving habits and conditions. It takes time and it takes consistency. A machine like consistency. :) 

 

I can't sense what you are feeling. I think mine works very well but if you drove it you might think it lacking in some way. I might drive yours and find acceptable. Who knows, right? 

 

I use Red Line D-6 fluid and run it cold like the pre 2014 6L80-E's. No thermostat and I run a colder water thermostat. Thing is, mine was not a bad actor from day one. I did notice it adapt to things like my use of cruise control by lowering the ramping rate to match my moderate pace. Not racing to get to speed. I noticed over time less slip over demand in the first three gears. The shifts tightened up some. I've learned as well. When I find a spot that is wonky I avoid it. 

 

Example, I come into a town that has a 40 mph speed limit. I toggle down from 55 to 40 and when it hits that speed the AFM kicks back in and the clutch slips to accommodate the change and speed logic says to drop a gear. Thing is the timing of this event happens just as the grade starts to rise and it would be caught unaware locking up the converter just as it needs to unlock resulting in an awkward 'lugging'. 

 

Okay I know this so now I kill the cruise and re-engage it at 38 mph and at the start of the rise triple tap it to 41 mph forcing it to unlock before the grade. It unlocks and pulls the grade smooth as silk. 125 K on this box and it's been a sweetheart. We understand each other. 

 

 

I have heard from several people that Lubgard Red added per instructions has help some users well enough it's starting to get a favorable reputation. I...personally, haven't tried it. Have no need to. NAPA carries it. Worth a try and it's undetectable to the bean counters. It's a friction modifier. 

 

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

:dunno:

 

I doubt changing to Mobil 1 will do anything as Mobil is the supplier for AC-Delco aka same fluid in a different bottle.

 

The TCM is loaded with a learning program and will adapt to a degree based on your driving habits and conditions. It takes time and it takes consistency. A machine like consistency. :) 

 

I can't sense what you are feeling. I think mine works very well but if you drove it you might think it lacking in some way. I might drive yours and find acceptable. Who knows, right? 

 

I use Red Line D-6 fluid and run it cold like the pre 2014 6L80-E's. No thermostat and I run a colder water thermostat. Thing is, mine was not a bad actor from day one. I did notice it adapt to things like my use of cruise control by lowering the ramping rate to match my moderate pace. Not racing to get to speed. I noticed over time less slip over demand in the first three gears. The shifts tightened up some. I've learned as well. When I find a spot that is wonky I avoid it. 

 

Example, I come into a town that has a 40 mph speed limit. I toggle down from 55 to 40 and when it hits that speed the AFM kicks back in and the clutch slips to accommodate the change and speed logic says to drop a gear. Thing is the timing of this event happens just as the grade starts to rise and it would be caught unaware locking up the converter just as it needs to unlock resulting in an awkward 'lugging'. 

 

Okay I know this so now I kill the cruise and re-engage it at 38 mph and at the start of the rise triple tap it to 41 mph forcing it to unlock before the grade. It unlocks and pulls the grade smooth as silk. 125 K on this box and it's been a sweetheart. We understand each other. 

 

 

I have heard from several people that Lubgard Red added per instructions has help some users well enough it's starting to get a favorable reputation. I...personally, haven't tried it. Have no need to. NAPA carries it. Worth a try and it's undetectable to the bean counters. It's a friction modifier. 

 

 

 

 

Can the Lubgard Red be added without taking any fluid out? Do you think this could help with my situation?

Posted
6 hours ago, fishrman said:

Can the Lubgard Red be added without taking any fluid out? Do you think this could help with my situation?

Remove via the dipstick a like amount. And 'maybe" . What it wont do is hurt anything. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Remove via the dipstick a like amount. And 'maybe" . What it wont do is hurt anything. 

How do I remove via dipstick?

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/13/2020 at 1:26 PM, fishrman said:

Sooo, this is something that cost about 200.00 bucks to disable the 4 cylinder option? Not sure it is worth that to me when Chev. built it the way they built it. Seems like it should be their problem and not mine! 

Which part is their problem? You purchased a truck knowing it had the option. That's like buying a Pepsi and saying it should have Coke in it...

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, carnau said:

Which part is their problem? You purchased a truck knowing it had the option. That's like buying a Pepsi and saying it should have Coke in it...

Not from my point of view. I purchased the truck believing that it would run nice and smooth whether it be in 4 cylinder mode or 8.

  • Sad 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

OK- - - no I didn't know my 2016 GMC 1500 had this V-8 to V-4 mode.  So if I run in the M range in 5th gear the drone and the V-4 mode goes away?  Is that what I have read?  I actually didn't' know what the M was for cause it also has the TOE mode.  But I am having fun with it!!   It's actually in the shop for the everyday electrical / modem issues that affect all of the 2014--2018 1/2 ton trucks.  yuck!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

This is an old post, but I wanted to add my 2¢ to the subject.  I recently purchased and installed the Range Technology AFM disabler.  My truck stays in V8 mode all of the time now.  No more jerking when you speed up.  I installed it due to fear of lifter issues in my 5.3 V8 engine.  I love it so far and is just plug in and forget.  That is unless you won't be driving the truck for awhile, then you need to unplug it to eliminate any battery drain.

Posted

I simply use the "M" mode and don';t worry.  Seems to work just great.  Not sure if it goes into the V4 mode when in 6th on the "M" mode.  

4th for stop and go and 5th if I got to run a distance.  

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Is Range the best option for the afm delete? Does the color matter? Will I even see it to worry about what color it is? 

Posted
7 hours ago, Zac98 said:

Is Range the best option for the afm delete? Does the color matter? Will I even see it to worry about what color it is? 

Not really a delete, but a disabler. Plug it in, no V4. Pull it out, V4 works again. Color is a personal preference. I have one that has green lights but not for any real reason but really don't pay attention to it. 

 

Just one thing to mention if you live in an area that does emissions testing. Unplug it at least a couple days before and drive the truck a few times or it will fail the emissions testing.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

They tell me the shudder I am experiencing is due to the 8cyl., wanting to go to 4 cyl. when I first start up my vehicle after it sits for a period of time. I notice this at around 30 to 35 mph. After a short period of time, it will not shudder

Responding to these comments about the shuttering

My trans failed (Torque converter ate it's self. After have the trans rebuilt. But before that I have had issues where the intervals of trans oil service were getting closer together

I had noticed the temp of the trans oil hovered around 190 + and when I was pulling my motor home the temp would go over 210. After the rebuild I was still having the same issue with the temps. The thermostat was full of the torque converter. The replace it and the temps came down to the 140 to 150 and pulling the trailer would jump to 180 with the trailers.  Now because of the temp issues I had the rebuilder lock out the slipping program built into the software. it shifts more like a manual transmission Now. This also lowered the trans temp because the slippage was increasing the temps. 

About 5 k after the trans was rebuilt the shuttering developed. It went away at 74 mph 

They told me that the left motor mount was broken causing the shuttering. 

Just had the mount replaced and the shuttering is still present.

Only my Shuttering is happening now in V4 and V8 mode

I've noticed that I have a low RPM miss this will cause the shuttering  #1 #2 & #8 cylinders 

one of these cylinders are the V4 mode

Follow up if replacing the injectors fixes the problem 

  • Like 1
Posted

I dunno, I tuned out the V4 mode as soon as I bought mine when it had 77,000 miles.
No issues here but I'm interested with what you find out!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...