Jump to content

Remote lock and unlock problem...

Mike Hamm

By Mike Hamm
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mike Hamm Enthusiast

Mike Hamm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The module that takes care of the TPMS and door locks is called the RCDLR and usually sits under the dash pad. These can fail especially if water gets in there.

Coby7, thanks for this. I did get water in the dash somewhere because I saw it on the floorboard below the dash after I realized it was dripping from the headliner.

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Colossus
Colossus

Given that batteries are so cheap, I'd go that route first. If no joy and you can duplicate the issue easily, this sounds like something for the warranty. Perhaps the sensor in the vehicle just need

Mike Hamm
Mike Hamm

Well, it's good I took it in to the dealer. Turned out there was a service advisory for an upgrade to the Body Control Module (BCM) which is what controls the remote entry system, among other things.

JNK13
JNK13

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door lo

Coby7 Senior Enthusiast

Coby7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oops double posted for some reason.

Edited by Coby7
Mike Hamm Enthusiast

Mike Hamm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oops double posted for some reason.

No worries. Some posts are worth repeating. LOL

Mike Hamm Enthusiast

Mike Hamm

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ultimately the RCDLR got replaced today. I think the service adviser had the wrong name for the module. Anyway, sharkfin leak fixed and RCDLR replaced. All is working well at the moment. C'mon rain, let's see if we still have a leak.

  • 3 months later...
rhurtado3232 Enthusiast

rhurtado3232

Posted
Posted

My truck just started to do the same thing. both remotes barely work on the truck. batteries are fine. I have to be within 4 ft to the dash or just outside the windows with the fob right against the glass to get the truck to lock.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
JNK13 New Member

JNK13

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door locks would not move. Of course this meant that when you opened the door the alarm would go off. This happened 1300 miles out of warranty (of course). I drove it to a dealer for trouble shooting. GM tech told the mechanic to replace the body control module. The mechanic did that but it did not fix the problem. Since I am on vacation and needed my vehicle back the dealership could not continue working with GM Tech hotline to trouble shoot further. Now my alarm will not set and the door locks still do not operate. I will have to follow up on how this problem when I get home. Not sure how this problem will be resolved. GM agreed to pay the cost outside of the warranty period. It would have cost me $547.00 for parts and labor and in this case it didn’t correct the problem anyway. So far I have not been charged for anything. GM has 80 cases of this problem ongoing according to the dealership. Ask for your area or zone rep and talk with the factory before agreeing to pay for this type to of repair. Factories have cash that they leverage for repairs that are not the fault of abuse but of poor engineering. This is not an owner problem. More to follow when I know more.

 

Couple months since I created this post, but here is/was the issue. I took the truck to a different dealer he asked me to leave both key fobs for reprogramming and changed a blown 10a fuse. So it wasn’t the body control module in this case, just a blown fuse. A few months later and the same thing happened. Deciding I didn’t want to pay another $150.00 dollars to have a mechanic change a fuse, I did it myself. The only problem is I didn’t know which fuse it was. I discovered by pulling each fuse that it is located on the passenger right side fuse block upper left 10a fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15a as I did not have a 10a left in the spare slot.(probably used by the mechanic on the first repair). The owners manual has this listed as “Body Control Module 8” vice “door lock”. I don’t believe I needed to have the fobs reprogrammed in the first repair. I didn’t do that this time. I think the additional 5amps in the fuse will prevent this from happening again although I don’t know what the engineers would think of the increased amperage.  I have a bad habit of hitting the fob buttons too many times in a row which might cause too much stress on the circuit. I will try not to do that. Hope this helps.

Edited by JNK13
  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Bob2C Enthusiast

Bob2C

Posted
Posted

Found this thread related to key fob problems.  I’m having issues. 

 

  • 5 months later...
Travis1024 Enthusiast

Travis1024

Posted
Posted
On 11/2/2018 at 11:32 PM, JNK13 said:

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door locks would not move. Of course this meant that when you opened the door the alarm would go off. This happened 1300 miles out of warranty (of course). I drove it to a dealer for trouble shooting. GM tech told the mechanic to replace the body control module. The mechanic did that but it did not fix the problem. Since I am on vacation and needed my vehicle back the dealership could not continue working with GM Tech hotline to trouble shoot further. Now my alarm will not set and the door locks still do not operate. I will have to follow up on how this problem when I get home. Not sure how this problem will be resolved. GM agreed to pay the cost outside of the warranty period. It would have cost me $547.00 for parts and labor and in this case it didn’t correct the problem anyway. So far I have not been charged for anything. GM has 80 cases of this problem ongoing according to the dealership. Ask for your area or zone rep and talk with the factory before agreeing to pay for this type to of repair. Factories have cash that they leverage for repairs that are not the fault of abuse but of poor engineering. This is not an owner problem. More to follow when I know more.

 

Couple months since I created this post, but here is/was the issue. I took the truck to a different dealer he asked me to leave both key fobs for reprogramming and changed a blown 10a fuse. So it wasn’t the body control module in this case, just a blown fuse. A few months later and the same thing happened. Deciding I didn’t want to pay another $150.00 dollars to have a mechanic change a fuse, I did it myself. The only problem is I didn’t know which fuse it was. I discovered by pulling each fuse that it is located on the passenger right side fuse block upper left 10a fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15a as I did not have a 10a left in the spare slot.(probably used by the mechanic on the first repair). The owners manual has this listed as “Body Control Module 8” vice “door lock”. I don’t believe I needed to have the fobs reprogrammed in the first repair. I didn’t do that this time. I think the additional 5amps in the fuse will prevent this from happening again although I don’t know what the engineers would think of the increased amperage.  I have a bad habit of hitting the fob buttons too many times in a row which might cause too much stress on the circuit. I will try not to do that. Hope this helps.

Do you mind providing a follow up here as to if you’ve had any issues since the fuse replacement? 
 

This is a great write up, and I’ve been having the same issues. 
 

when one fob works, the other does too. When one DOESN’T work, neither does the other. I also had TPMS sensor error as soon as this happened as well. 
 

they work intermittently, and it seems as if they have a mind of their own (work one day, don’t the next). 

follow up post on the success would be much appreciated. 

 

JNK13 New Member

JNK13

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, Travis1024 said:

Do you mind providing a follow up here as to if you’ve had any issues since the fuse replacement? 
 

This is a great write up, and I’ve been having the same issues. 
 

when one fob works, the other does too. When one DOESN’T work, neither does the other. I also had TPMS sensor error as soon as this happened as well. 
 

they work intermittently, and it seems as if they have a mind of their own (work one day, don’t the next). 

follow up post on the success would be much appreciated. 

 

Hi Travis1024,

After replacing the fuse to a 15amp I had no further issues with the circuit/fuse blowing. It’s my belief that the 10amp circuit probably couldn’t handle someone like me who has a bad habit of hitting the FOB buttons multiple times to unlock the doors. Good luck and thanks for the compliment! 

Travis1024 Enthusiast

Travis1024

Posted
Posted
On 3/23/2017 at 8:34 PM, Mike Hamm said:

Ultimately the RCDLR got replaced today. I think the service adviser had the wrong name for the module. Anyway, sharkfin leak fixed and RCDLR replaced. All is working well at the moment. C'mon rain, let's see if we still have a leak.

Did the RCDLR replacement Ultimately fix this? Any issues since the fix? 

Mike Hamm Enthusiast

Mike Hamm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Travis1024 said:

Did the RCDLR replacement Ultimately fix this? Any issues since the fix? 

Hi Travis. Yes, this fixed the problem and there have been no issues since.  The sharkfin antenna did leak one more time but it came through in a slightly different spot so no electrical issues because of it and the dealer must have really sealed it well this last time because it hasn't leaked since.

Travis1024 Enthusiast

Travis1024

Posted
Posted
On 12/14/2019 at 3:50 PM, JNK13 said:

Hi Travis1024,

After replacing the fuse to a 15amp I had no further issues with the circuit/fuse blowing. It’s my belief that the 10amp circuit probably couldn’t handle someone like me who has a bad habit of hitting the FOB buttons multiple times to unlock the doors. Good luck and thanks for the compliment! 

Thanks for the follow up. I too overuse my clicker out of habit haha.

 

Looks like Mike (below) had the same issues, but with a different fix replacing the RCDLR. I think I will try the fuse route first to see if that works.

Travis1024 Enthusiast

Travis1024

Posted
Posted
On 12/14/2019 at 7:36 PM, Mike Hamm said:

Hi Travis. Yes, this fixed the problem and there have been no issues since.  The sharkfin antenna did leak one more time but it came through in a slightly different spot so no electrical issues because of it and the dealer must have really sealed it well this last time because it hasn't leaked since.

Thanks for following up, Mike!

 

If you don't mind me asking, did warranty cover the RCDLR replacement? (if you are still under warranty of course)

 

Mike Hamm Enthusiast

Mike Hamm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, Travis1024 said:

Thanks for following up, Mike!

 

If you don't mind me asking, did warranty cover the RCDLR replacement? (if you are still under warranty of course)

 

Travis, yeah both sharkfin leak repairs and any work related to it including RCDLR was covered under warranty. 

Travis1024 Enthusiast

Travis1024

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Mike Hamm said:

Travis, yeah both sharkfin leak repairs and any work related to it including RCDLR was covered under warranty. 

Great news. Thanks again!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Carlos Eduardo Silva
      adding 360 surround view, UVI (Trailer Camera) package to UVS (Surround/invisible Trailer) Upgrade 2020 Silverado RST

      By Carlos Eduardo Silva · Posted

      Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...