Remote lock and unlock problem...

Mike Hamm · March 20, 2017

The module that takes care of the TPMS and door locks is called the RCDLR and usually sits under the dash pad. These can fail especially if water gets in there.

Coby7, thanks for this. I did get water in the dash somewhere because I saw it on the floorboard below the dash after I realized it was dripping from the headliner.

Coby7 · March 20, 2017

Oops double posted for some reason.

Edited March 20, 2017 by Coby7

Mike Hamm · March 20, 2017

Oops double posted for some reason.

No worries. Some posts are worth repeating. LOL

Mike Hamm · March 24, 2017

Ultimately the RCDLR got replaced today. I think the service adviser had the wrong name for the module. Anyway, sharkfin leak fixed and RCDLR replaced. All is working well at the moment. C'mon rain, let's see if we still have a leak.

rhurtado3232 · July 12, 2017

My truck just started to do the same thing. both remotes barely work on the truck. batteries are fine. I have to be within 4 ft to the dash or just outside the windows with the fob right against the glass to get the truck to lock.

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JNK13 · November 3, 2018

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door locks would not move. Of course this meant that when you opened the door the alarm would go off. This happened 1300 miles out of warranty (of course). I drove it to a dealer for trouble shooting. GM tech told the mechanic to replace the body control module. The mechanic did that but it did not fix the problem. Since I am on vacation and needed my vehicle back the dealership could not continue working with GM Tech hotline to trouble shoot further. Now my alarm will not set and the door locks still do not operate. I will have to follow up on how this problem when I get home. Not sure how this problem will be resolved. GM agreed to pay the cost outside of the warranty period. It would have cost me $547.00 for parts and labor and in this case it didn’t correct the problem anyway. So far I have not been charged for anything. GM has 80 cases of this problem ongoing according to the dealership. Ask for your area or zone rep and talk with the factory before agreeing to pay for this type to of repair. Factories have cash that they leverage for repairs that are not the fault of abuse but of poor engineering. This is not an owner problem. More to follow when I know more.

Couple months since I created this post, but here is/was the issue. I took the truck to a different dealer he asked me to leave both key fobs for reprogramming and changed a blown 10a fuse. So it wasn’t the body control module in this case, just a blown fuse. A few months later and the same thing happened. Deciding I didn’t want to pay another $150.00 dollars to have a mechanic change a fuse, I did it myself. The only problem is I didn’t know which fuse it was. I discovered by pulling each fuse that it is located on the passenger right side fuse block upper left 10a fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15a as I did not have a 10a left in the spare slot.(probably used by the mechanic on the first repair). The owners manual has this listed as “Body Control Module 8” vice “door lock”. I don’t believe I needed to have the fobs reprogrammed in the first repair. I didn’t do that this time. I think the additional 5amps in the fuse will prevent this from happening again although I don’t know what the engineers would think of the increased amperage. I have a bad habit of hitting the fob buttons too many times in a row which might cause too much stress on the circuit. I will try not to do that. Hope this helps.

Edited February 3, 2019 by JNK13

Bob2C · June 17, 2019

Found this thread related to key fob problems. I’m having issues.

Travis1024 · December 14, 2019

On 11/2/2018 at 11:32 PM, JNK13 said:

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door locks would not move. Of course this meant that when you opened the door the alarm would go off. This happened 1300 miles out of warranty (of course). I drove it to a dealer for trouble shooting. GM tech told the mechanic to replace the body control module. The mechanic did that but it did not fix the problem. Since I am on vacation and needed my vehicle back the dealership could not continue working with GM Tech hotline to trouble shoot further. Now my alarm will not set and the door locks still do not operate. I will have to follow up on how this problem when I get home. Not sure how this problem will be resolved. GM agreed to pay the cost outside of the warranty period. It would have cost me $547.00 for parts and labor and in this case it didn’t correct the problem anyway. So far I have not been charged for anything. GM has 80 cases of this problem ongoing according to the dealership. Ask for your area or zone rep and talk with the factory before agreeing to pay for this type to of repair. Factories have cash that they leverage for repairs that are not the fault of abuse but of poor engineering. This is not an owner problem. More to follow when I know more.

Couple months since I created this post, but here is/was the issue. I took the truck to a different dealer he asked me to leave both key fobs for reprogramming and changed a blown 10a fuse. So it wasn’t the body control module in this case, just a blown fuse. A few months later and the same thing happened. Deciding I didn’t want to pay another $150.00 dollars to have a mechanic change a fuse, I did it myself. The only problem is I didn’t know which fuse it was. I discovered by pulling each fuse that it is located on the passenger right side fuse block upper left 10a fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15a as I did not have a 10a left in the spare slot.(probably used by the mechanic on the first repair). The owners manual has this listed as “Body Control Module 8” vice “door lock”. I don’t believe I needed to have the fobs reprogrammed in the first repair. I didn’t do that this time. I think the additional 5amps in the fuse will prevent this from happening again although I don’t know what the engineers would think of the increased amperage. I have a bad habit of hitting the fob buttons too many times in a row which might cause too much stress on the circuit. I will try not to do that. Hope this helps.

Do you mind providing a follow up here as to if you’ve had any issues since the fuse replacement?

This is a great write up, and I’ve been having the same issues.

when one fob works, the other does too. When one DOESN’T work, neither does the other. I also had TPMS sensor error as soon as this happened as well.

they work intermittently, and it seems as if they have a mind of their own (work one day, don’t the next).

follow up post on the success would be much appreciated.

JNK13 · December 14, 2019

23 minutes ago, Travis1024 said:

Do you mind providing a follow up here as to if you’ve had any issues since the fuse replacement?

This is a great write up, and I’ve been having the same issues.

when one fob works, the other does too. When one DOESN’T work, neither does the other. I also had TPMS sensor error as soon as this happened as well.

they work intermittently, and it seems as if they have a mind of their own (work one day, don’t the next).

follow up post on the success would be much appreciated.

Hi Travis1024,

After replacing the fuse to a 15amp I had no further issues with the circuit/fuse blowing. It’s my belief that the 10amp circuit probably couldn’t handle someone like me who has a bad habit of hitting the FOB buttons multiple times to unlock the doors. Good luck and thanks for the compliment!

Travis1024 · December 14, 2019

On 3/23/2017 at 8:34 PM, Mike Hamm said:

Ultimately the RCDLR got replaced today. I think the service adviser had the wrong name for the module. Anyway, sharkfin leak fixed and RCDLR replaced. All is working well at the moment. C'mon rain, let's see if we still have a leak.

Did the RCDLR replacement Ultimately fix this? Any issues since the fix?

Mike Hamm · December 15, 2019

3 hours ago, Travis1024 said:

Did the RCDLR replacement Ultimately fix this? Any issues since the fix?

Hi Travis. Yes, this fixed the problem and there have been no issues since. The sharkfin antenna did leak one more time but it came through in a slightly different spot so no electrical issues because of it and the dealer must have really sealed it well this last time because it hasn't leaked since.

Travis1024 · December 16, 2019

On 12/14/2019 at 3:50 PM, JNK13 said:

Hi Travis1024,

After replacing the fuse to a 15amp I had no further issues with the circuit/fuse blowing. It’s my belief that the 10amp circuit probably couldn’t handle someone like me who has a bad habit of hitting the FOB buttons multiple times to unlock the doors. Good luck and thanks for the compliment!

Thanks for the follow up. I too overuse my clicker out of habit haha.

Looks like Mike (below) had the same issues, but with a different fix replacing the RCDLR. I think I will try the fuse route first to see if that works.

Travis1024 · December 16, 2019

On 12/14/2019 at 7:36 PM, Mike Hamm said:

Hi Travis. Yes, this fixed the problem and there have been no issues since. The sharkfin antenna did leak one more time but it came through in a slightly different spot so no electrical issues because of it and the dealer must have really sealed it well this last time because it hasn't leaked since.

Thanks for following up, Mike!

If you don't mind me asking, did warranty cover the RCDLR replacement? (if you are still under warranty of course)

Mike Hamm · December 16, 2019

12 minutes ago, Travis1024 said:

Thanks for following up, Mike!

If you don't mind me asking, did warranty cover the RCDLR replacement? (if you are still under warranty of course)

Travis, yeah both sharkfin leak repairs and any work related to it including RCDLR was covered under warranty.