Jump to content

2014 Silverado blowing hot air out of passenger side and cold on driver side?

Brianx220

By Brianx220
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brianx220 Enthusiast

Brianx220

Posted
Posted

It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.

image.jpg

RubiconJoey Enthusiast

RubiconJoey

Posted
Posted

My 2011 did this when my battery went dead along with some other weird stuff that I thought was caused by a battery drain issue. Replaced the battery and all was well. I'm not sure that your issue is the same but, I would bet it's something electrical and not mechanical like running out of freon.

Brianx220 Enthusiast

Brianx220

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, RubiconJoey said:

My 2011 did this when my battery went dead along with some other weird stuff that I thought was caused by a battery drain issue. Replaced the battery and all was well. I'm not sure that your issue is the same but, I would bet it's something electrical and not mechanical like running out of freon.

You bring up a good point. My battery did die and we replaced it but since I drive witch my windows open I never noticed it until my GF asked me why the heater was on and I’m chillin in the cool air lol so I will try and pull the battery for 20 seconds I guess and reset the system. Maybe it works?

Brianx220 Enthusiast

Brianx220

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update: So I took it to the dealer again and that was a waste of time because apparently nothing is wrong with it. So I took matters in my own hands and started pulling the HVAC and the Dual Climate control fuses and took the battery off for approximately 2 minuets and put it back together and turned it over to see what happens. Not sure what fixed it weather pulling the fuses or pulling the positive terminal but now everything works properly. Just for anyone who has the same issue this is a quick fix the dealers will charge you for. Thank god for the internet lol.

Edited by Brianx220
  • Like 1
Ian Pritchard (Hydroguy8) Enthusiast

Ian Pritchard (Hydroguy8)

Posted
Posted

Temperature blend door actuators have been an issue for years-both my '05 + '06 Silverados. In reading up on the issues, it had been an issue for years. Some folks have had success with the battery, like here, others have had to change out the actuators, like me. I would have thought it was resolved...guess not!

Brianx220 Enthusiast

Brianx220

Posted
  • Author
Posted
41 minutes ago, Ian Pritchard (Hydroguy8) said:

Temperature blend door actuators have been an issue for years-both my '05 + '06 Silverados. In reading up on the issues, it had been an issue for years. Some folks have had success with the battery, like here, others have had to change out the actuators, like me. I would have thought it was resolved...guess not!

I thought the same, that maybe GM would wise up and fix it but apparently even some 2017s are having the same problem. Lucky for them is most are still under the 36K mile warranty. As for me, my 2014 has been a great truck for about 83500 miles and now this. The simple fact that we don’t use the A/C that often made me think more of the system needing a reset rather than anything mechanical like freon or actuators needing replacement. 

garagerog Enthusiast

garagerog

Posted
Posted

Holy Crap Brian, you live in Houston and don't use the A/C that often?  Guess I am really a wuss, after moving from the PNW to SC some 14 years ago I still haven't gotten used to the humidity and I use the vehicle a/c probably 10 mos. a year. We had mid-80's temps here this weekend so even the house a/c has been on a couple of nights and it's still February for gawds sake!

Scooter68 New Member

Scooter68

Posted
Posted

My 08 Silverado 1500 had the exact same issue with the actuators. My 14 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton I never had a problem and so far so good on my 17 Chevrolet 2500 has not had this problem as yet. It was really annoying and never resolved.

  • 1 year later...
Torquenstein New Member

Torquenstein

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/23/2018 at 7:52 PM, Brianx220 said:

Update: ...So I took matters in my own hands and started pulling the HVAC and the Dual Climate control fuses and took the battery off for approximately 2 minuets and put it back together and turned it over to see what happens...now everything works properly.

Signed up to confirm this.  Below are the symptoms and resolution to this exact issue.

 

2014 GMC Sierra Denali

 

Symptom: On full blast AC mode, driver's side luke warm or hot, passenger side cold.

 

Resolution

1. Turn ignition and power off

2. Remove negative battery cable

3. Remove fuses 35, 55, & 56 from BMX fuse panel "inspect them"

4. Wait 5 minutes...

5. Reinstall fuses 35, 55, &56

6. Reconnect negative battery cable

7. Turn ignition back on

8. Don't touch HVAC controls for 3 minutes.

9. Test Driver vs Passenger side temps

 

Most likely the HVAC door actuator was out of calibration and a loss and return of battery power forces a recalibration of the unit.  Hopefully this helps someone needing clear and concise instructions.

Edited by Torquenstein
  • 1 month later...
BlackBeard1790 Enthusiast

BlackBeard1790

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2019 at 2:01 AM, Torquenstein said:

Signed up to confirm this.  Below are the symptoms and resolution to this exact issue.

 

2014 GMC Sierra Denali

 

Symptom: On full blast AC mode, driver's side luke warm or hot, passenger side cold.

 

Resolution

1. Turn ignition and power off

2. Remove negative battery cable

3. Remove fuses 35, 55, & 56 from BMX fuse panel "inspect them"

4. Wait 5 minutes...

5. Reinstall fuses 35, 55, &56

6. Reconnect negative battery cable

7. Turn ignition back on

8. Don't touch HVAC controls for 3 minutes.

9. Test Driver vs Passenger side temps

 

Most likely the HVAC door actuator was out of calibration and a loss and return of battery power forces a recalibration of the unit.  Hopefully this helps someone needing clear and concise instructions.

This is good stuff. I’m having an issue with my 2019 Silverado. The driver side is stuck on cold. Passenger side controls work flawlessly and will change as quickly as I change the temp. Driver side has zero fluctuation. I’m going to try these steps when I get home. Just in case my fuse numbers are different, we’re there any names/tags associated with those particular fuses? Like HVAC or something along those lines?

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2019 at 2:01 AM, Torquenstein said:

Signed up to confirm this.  Below are the symptoms and resolution to this exact issue.

 

2014 GMC Sierra Denali

 

Symptom: On full blast AC mode, driver's side luke warm or hot, passenger side cold.

 

Resolution

1. Turn ignition and power off

2. Remove negative battery cable

3. Remove fuses 35, 55, & 56 from BMX fuse panel "inspect them"

4. Wait 5 minutes...

5. Reinstall fuses 35, 55, &56

6. Reconnect negative battery cable

7. Turn ignition back on

8. Don't touch HVAC controls for 3 minutes.

9. Test Driver vs Passenger side temps

 

Most likely the HVAC door actuator was out of calibration and a loss and return of battery power forces a recalibration of the unit.  Hopefully this helps someone needing clear and concise instructions.

Just looking for clarification between steps 8 and 9. So after turning ignition back on, when not touching HVAC controls for 3 minutes and then testing temps, am I right in assuming that means the HVAC system should be off, then turn it on and test temps? Or should the HVAC be on for the 3 minutes without touching or adjusting the controls and then test the temps. Also when testing, should it be set to auto, or another setting?

BlackBeard1790 Enthusiast

BlackBeard1790

Posted
Posted
On 2/23/2018 at 7:52 PM, Brianx220 said:

Update: So I took it to the dealer again and that was a waste of time because apparently nothing is wrong with it. So I took matters in my own hands and started pulling the HVAC and the Dual Climate control fuses and took the battery off for approximately 2 minuets and put it back together and turned it over to see what happens. Not sure what fixed it weather pulling the fuses or pulling the positive terminal but now everything works properly. Just for anyone who has the same issue this is a quick fix the dealers will charge you for. Thank god for the internet lol.

Was it the positive or negative cable? I see another post that says to pull the negative cable and you said that you pulled the positive. Thanks for any advice.

BlackBeard1790 Enthusiast

BlackBeard1790

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2019 at 2:01 AM, Torquenstein said:

Signed up to confirm this.  Below are the symptoms and resolution to this exact issue.

 

2014 GMC Sierra Denali

 

Symptom: On full blast AC mode, driver's side luke warm or hot, passenger side cold.

 

Resolution

1. Turn ignition and power off

2. Remove negative battery cable

3. Remove fuses 35, 55, & 56 from BMX fuse panel "inspect them"

4. Wait 5 minutes...

5. Reinstall fuses 35, 55, &56

6. Reconnect negative battery cable

7. Turn ignition back on

8. Don't touch HVAC controls for 3 minutes.

9. Test Driver vs Passenger side temps

 

Most likely the HVAC door actuator was out of calibration and a loss and return of battery power forces a recalibration of the unit.  Hopefully this helps someone needing clear and concise instructions.

So, My Silverado is a 2019 with 150 miles on it. I opened the fuse box under the hood and the one by the driver side door panel and neither had a listing that said HVAC. I tried googling and found nothing useful. So, I pulled anything that was 10amp and looked like it could be related to the HVAC. Anyways, I had the negative cable pulled from the battery. Waited 15 minutes and hooked it back up. Went in the truck, started it, waited a few minutes and nothing has changed....the driver side only blows cold. It won’t change up or down. Passenger side works just fine. Dealer wants me to bring it in of course. Don’t you just love owning a truck for 4 days and having to bring it back to the dealer for repair?!?!

  • 10 months later...
AllTerrain74 New Member

AllTerrain74

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2019 at 3:01 AM, Torquenstein said:

Signed up to confirm this.  Below are the symptoms and resolution to this exact issue.

 

2014 GMC Sierra Denali

 

Symptom: On full blast AC mode, driver's side luke warm or hot, passenger side cold.

 

Resolution

1. Turn ignition and power off

2. Remove negative battery cable

3. Remove fuses 35, 55, & 56 from BMX fuse panel "inspect them"

4. Wait 5 minutes...

5. Reinstall fuses 35, 55, &56

6. Reconnect negative battery cable

7. Turn ignition back on

8. Don't touch HVAC controls for 3 minutes.

9. Test Driver vs Passenger side temps

 

Most likely the HVAC door actuator was out of calibration and a loss and return of battery power forces a recalibration of the unit.  Hopefully this helps someone needing clear and concise instructions.

I am having this same issue on my 2014 All Terrain. I will try this procedure when I get home to see if it fixes the issue. At first I thought that I needed a re-charge, but confirmed the other day that the two passenger vents are blowing cold while the driver side remains hot.

 

It seems like this really became an issue after I changed the battery last fall, but really did not notice until the weather started heating up.

 

One question: Should the HVAC be turned completely off before doing this procedure, or just leave it where it was?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That is a fair point, and I think an OBD-first proof is probably the right next step. I agree that the value is not the hardware box by itself. The marketable part would be the software: always-on capture, baseline learning, event reduction, system-specific reports, and alerts. Also agreed that if an OBD device is always plugged in and has local storage, it should not miss the event in the same way that a scanner plugged in after the fact would. The only thing I would not want to assume yet is that an ELM327-class device gives all the late-GM data needed at the rate needed. Standard OBD live data, DTCs, freeze frame, Mode 6, VIN, and calibration information are definitely the right starting point. GDS2 also proves that a lot of useful ECM data can be viewed through the DLC without needing a DTC first. The question I need to test is whether the data needed for a useful GM V8 event report is actually available through the DLC, and at a useful sample rate: - misfire counts / roughness by cylinder - AFM/DFM state - oil pressure and oil temperature - fuel trims - voltage / reset context - U-codes and communication events - calibration / software information - whether these are standard PIDs, enhanced DIDs, Mode 6 data, GDS2-only data, or not available So I think the right benchmark is: 1. Build the OBD-only version first. 2. Keep it plugged in and logging locally. 3. Compare it against GDS2 / freeze frame / HP Tuners or another higher-end logger. 4. Measure which parameters are available and at what update rate. 5. Only justify ECM-side hardware if it captures useful evidence the OBD version cannot. So you may be right: the consumer product might simply be an always-plugged-in OBD event recorder with much better reporting. A question for you: when you say ELM327 devices can already deliver all the data needed, do you mean generic OBD Mode 01 data only, or GM enhanced data as well? For a useful GM V8 report, would generic OBD data be enough, or would you expect the tool to include enhanced items like misfire by cylinder, AFM/DFM state, oil pressure/oil temp, U-codes, and calibration information?
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I agree. 
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...