Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Does the Door skin need to be removed in order to pull full harness out???

Pulled off the entire door panel. Had to snake the harness out. It’s a bit of a pain in the balls. Just take note of the orientation of the harness and how it was routed originally. I’m sorry for the delay! I’m sure you got it done already


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Reviving this thread a little bit.  My 2015 Sierra thought my driver door was always open, and none of the windows would roll down from the driver module (windows would roll down from the actual door).  I looked through the wiring harness and found the green/yellow was broken so I patched that and put everything back together.  Now all the windows will roll down from the driver door except for the driver window, and now my pickup thinks the driver door is always closed.  Is the issue probably with the window motor, or I read potentially the window switch?  Trying to avoid going to the dealership to pay 5x what I could repair at home.  Thanks for the help.

Posted

Mods should add this to the pinned topics.  There is lots of good info piling up here regarding what seems like an ongoing issue with the door wiring.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Sooo I know this thread is outdated by a few years but I was just having the same issue with my 2014 Silverado. Rear driver door ajar message, couldn't control the window from the driver controls and the dome light would stay on (as if the door was open...) anyway, after a little help from Google I found my issue and also the solution. It was a green wire that broke in the Accordion boot between the door and cab of the truck. On mine it was broke on the door end of the wiring and I had just sliced the boot open, used a wiring butt-connector to connect the ends back to one another and then used electrical tape to wrap it up and super glued the slice I made in the boot and bam. No more issues

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

 Just to revive this topic once more,  I found that s3veral wires inside of the boot leading to the drivers door were frayed. I taped them and also discovered that the main hot wire (the black one) was broken off at the terminal inside of the connector.  I managed a temporary fix by jamming another piece of wire in there to hold the connection until it warmed up enough to replace the whole harness. It worked for awhile until I got a spark out of that wire. Prior to this only the driver window was affected and all others worked from the driver controls. After the short, none of the windows work from any of the controls and the door ajar light stayed on. I just replaced the entire harness and the windows still don't operate. I know I fried something, but the question is what.  The childlock buttons still work and I have control over the side mirrors. The fuse is good so I either cooked the switch or the motor/control module.  I'm not sure which to start with. The vehicle is a 2014 Silverado 1500 LT.  Any help would be appreciated. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel or gas?  The 37s will obviously, drastically reduce mpg, but the gasser will take a bigger hit to mpg, and power.  Rough guess, but I'd estimate at least a  2mpg hit on the diesel, and up to 4on the gasser. Maybe more.    I wouldn't sweat a gear change on a duramax at all, and unlikely on the gasser either. You're obviously not concerned with acceleration or towing, and the 10spd will find itself in the right gear without much hunting, if any.    If towing, mpg and acceleration are a concern, you're doing the wrong mods.  Either leave it alone, or do the lift/tires and let the chips fall where they may. 
    • I understand. It is disturbing to think a manufacture asks so much and gives so little in engineering support. This is not a GM issues, this is a greed issue and one the ALL practice.    My intent was not to remove the wind from anyone's sail but rather to point out the areas deficient so that they can be discussed with improvements the goal. But to do that you have to know the truth and what that truth is.    The commercial interest are honed in on a few select issues in which they control all the variables and are not forthcoming in the least with their customers about the details. Failure is the only thing that drives these people to improvement. One way not to fail it to manage public "expectations". The set a bar they can clear and put their thumbs under the suspenders with chest puffed.... Only the internal data tells the story fully. As we don't have access to that for decades then we have to generate it ourselves. UOA's with data that matters.  
    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...