Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
He removed the Trail Boss stickers, not debadged, maybe destickered. 
 
Yes De-stickered would be a better way to describe it. I left the badges for now as they don't bother me as much as the stickers.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

Guess I'll add mine.  Nothing special, but I love it.  Lost my tail on the P.O.S. RST I had for a month with the 5.3,  but I'm glad I have this one.  At least it doesn't vibrate and feel like a cell phone vibrating in the center console every time its between 1200-1500 RPMs

20190324_182639.jpg

  • Like 6
Posted
2 hours ago, Robwcormack said:

Guess I'll add mine.  Nothing special, but I love it.  Lost my tail on the P.O.S. RST I had for a month with the 5.3,  but I'm glad I have this one.  At least it doesn't vibrate and feel like a cell phone vibrating in the center console every time its between 1200-1500 RPMs

20190324_182639.jpg

Can you elaborate on the vibration you were experiencing? I am wondering if I am experiencing the same thing or if it is just my tires... Nitto Trailgrapplers( I've owned 3 sets of Nitto's in the past and never had this happen)

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Aycock1987 said:

Can you elaborate on the vibration you were experiencing? I am wondering if I am experiencing the same thing or if it is just my tires... Nitto Trailgrapplers( I've owned 3 sets of Nitto's in the past and never had this happen)

Yeah, it only did it between 1200-1500 rpm range if I was on a flat or slight downhill slope and lightly touching the gas.  Unfortunately where I live and work there's a lot of driving in those conditions.  It would even do it on the interstate though.  You could feel it in the floor, pedals. Steering wheel, and center console.  Almost felt like running over some very worn down rumble strips or rough grooves in the road.  The first several times it did it, I looked at the console for my phone because I thought I had left it on vibrate and it rang sitting in the top cutout there in the armrest part.  

 

I took it to the dealer and he said it was normal and was just where it was going into v4 mode.  I explained that this doesn't have AFM like the 18s and doesn't go into "v4 mode".  That was at 600 miles.  At 1300 miles I took it back and the same tech admitted that my truck was the first 19 he had even driven and that he wasn't that familiar with DFM and how it worked exactly.  I said if its normal, we should be able to go out and get in another new one and it'll do the same thing.  Drove another, and it did but not nearly as bad.  Obviously not normal in my opinion.  They had no clue, so I contacted GM who was not helpful at all.  They escalated my case to a lady that would only call me in the evening when i wasn't available. I would return their call during normal business hours and leave a message explaining I was only available during those hours.  Then they'd call me back that evening.  Went on like that for over a week and I got sick of it.  Ate a huge loss trading it in on a 6.2, but MAN what a difference!

Posted
24 minutes ago, Robwcormack said:

Yeah, it only did it between 1200-1500 rpm range if I was on a flat or slight downhill slope and lightly touching the gas.  Unfortunately where I live and work there's a lot of driving in those conditions.  It would even do it on the interstate though.  You could feel it in the floor, pedals. Steering wheel, and center console.  Almost felt like running over some very worn down rumble strips or rough grooves in the road.  The first several times it did it, I looked at the console for my phone because I thought I had left it on vibrate and it rang sitting in the top cutout there in the armrest part.  

 

I took it to the dealer and he said it was normal and was just where it was going into v4 mode.  I explained that this doesn't have AFM like the 18s and doesn't go into "v4 mode".  That was at 600 miles.  At 1300 miles I took it back and the same tech admitted that my truck was the first 19 he had even driven and that he wasn't that familiar with DFM and how it worked exactly.  I said if its normal, we should be able to go out and get in another new one and it'll do the same thing.  Drove another, and it did but not nearly as bad.  Obviously not normal in my opinion.  They had no clue, so I contacted GM who was not helpful at all.  They escalated my case to a lady that would only call me in the evening when i wasn't available. I would return their call during normal business hours and leave a message explaining I was only available during those hours.  Then they'd call me back that evening.  Went on like that for over a week and I got sick of it.  Ate a huge loss trading it in on a 6.2, but MAN what a difference!

Man.... I don't blame you. That's not quite what I am experiencing but mine seems to have a, behind the scenes, vibration that seems to come and go every 4 seconds when I am at highway speeds. I am hoping it's the tires but the thing that makes me think otherwise is I drove another 2019 for a couple of days and it seemed to have the same vibration noise.

Posted
1 hour ago, Robwcormack said:

Yeah, it only did it between 1200-1500 rpm range if I was on a flat or slight downhill slope and lightly touching the gas.  Unfortunately where I live and work there's a lot of driving in those conditions.  It would even do it on the interstate though.  You could feel it in the floor, pedals. Steering wheel, and center console.  Almost felt like running over some very worn down rumble strips or rough grooves in the road.  The first several times it did it, I looked at the console for my phone because I thought I had left it on vibrate and it rang sitting in the top cutout there in the armrest part.  

 

I took it to the dealer and he said it was normal and was just where it was going into v4 mode.  I explained that this doesn't have AFM like the 18s and doesn't go into "v4 mode".  That was at 600 miles.  At 1300 miles I took it back and the same tech admitted that my truck was the first 19 he had even driven and that he wasn't that familiar with DFM and how it worked exactly.  I said if its normal, we should be able to go out and get in another new one and it'll do the same thing.  Drove another, and it did but not nearly as bad.  Obviously not normal in my opinion.  They had no clue, so I contacted GM who was not helpful at all.  They escalated my case to a lady that would only call me in the evening when i wasn't available. I would return their call during normal business hours and leave a message explaining I was only available during those hours.  Then they'd call me back that evening.  Went on like that for over a week and I got sick of it.  Ate a huge loss trading it in on a 6.2, but MAN what a difference!

Wow, not good.  Not the first post I’ve read regarding the same sort of vibration on the new 1500 with DFM.  

 

Is this issue only in relation to the 8sp and 5.3 DFM combo?  The reason I ask is because you stated the 6.2 with 10sp is a huge difference, although I know the 6.2 has DFM also.

Posted

I have a 2019 Trailboss with the 5.3L and the 8 speed and do not have this issue at all.  I also have 14k miles on my truck so far.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just purchased my 2019 High Country.  Added the 6.2L Cat-Back Dual-Exit Exhaust System Upgrade and the 6.2L Cold Air Intake Upgrade.  It sounds awesome now and really gets up and goes now with the added horsepower.  Tinting the windows in the next couple of weeks.  Tire upgrade and life probably in the next 6 months.  Love this truck so far.  

file1-1.jpeg

file-6.jpeg

  • Like 5
Posted

How’s the clear coat holding up on the guys with black trucks? My truck is only a month old and has swirls and scratches all over like it’s a few years old.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Mine still looks like new. Sounds like you need to start washing yours correctly. Two bucket method or touchless automatic washes, if you must. You need to be extra careful about these things on a black vehicle.

  • Like 2
Posted
58 minutes ago, Thejet07 said:

How’s the clear coat holding up on the guys with black trucks? My truck is only a month old and has swirls and scratches all over like it’s a few years old.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

definitely sounds like you need to be super careful with how you wash it. If it's going through a car wash with brushes, any black car will look bad after a few of those. OnThereel said a 2 bucket wash is the best way... I couldn't agree more. One bucket has soapy water, the other is for rinsing... I rinse my wash mitt after i wash each panel both with the hose and in the bucket, then do the wheels and rockers with a separate mitt and do them last. Start with the glass and work your way down. Black is a pain to wash but looks awesome when it's cleaned and cared for properly.  

  • Like 2
Posted
12 hours ago, 2011Chevy said:

Wow, not good.  Not the first post I’ve read regarding the same sort of vibration on the new 1500 with DFM.  

 

Is this issue only in relation to the 8sp and 5.3 DFM combo?  The reason I ask is because you stated the 6.2 with 10sp is a huge difference, although I know the 6.2 has DFM also.

There's been several complaints on here about similar things with the 5.3 and 8sp.  I dont recall seeing any with the 6.2.  It blows my mind that GM continues to increase the prices on these trucks when they already have a huge profit margin on them, and then lowers the warranty to 60k miles instead of 100k on powertrain.  If they won't stand behind them for 100k miles, why are we all dumb enough to pay more for them?  Things I probably should have thought of BEFORE buying one.

Posted

I'm 500 miles in with a 5.3 LTZ and it drives like a Cadillac to me coming from Hondas and Subarus. Smooth and quiet, even with Z71.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...