Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
13 minutes ago, Steve-2019 said:

Wow, sorry to hear that again!  Now what?

Not sure. They have done the sealant, then replacement, then sealant again. So now, I have to send GM a certified letter due to lemon law I suppose. I really don't want to dump this thing on Carvana, but I also don't want another slacker service guy scratching the interior panels or leaving sealant all over the outside. Just frustrated right now. 

Posted
1 hour ago, UGADawgs said:

Well, here we go again. I am now experiencing leak #4. Sigh :(

 

image.thumb.png.468a79705887c9fb5c5397312dca3d48.png

You're a better man than me. I am heading to the dealership to drop mine off right now. If they try three times and are unsuccessful in fixing mine, I will take the loss, trade it in on something else and never buy another GM vehicle.  There is absolutely no excuse for not being able to fix that after 3 attempts. I won't fight with them, they'll just never get another dime of my money (and I have purchased 4 brand new Chevy's in the last 2.5 years alone and still own 3). 

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, UGADawgs said:

Not sure. They have done the sealant, then replacement, then sealant again. So now, I have to send GM a certified letter due to lemon law I suppose. I really don't want to dump this thing on Carvana, but I also don't want another slacker service guy scratching the interior panels or leaving sealant all over the outside. Just frustrated right now. 

Have them check the clips for the spoiler. Here is a pic of before (on my truck) and the “new” style clips GM is sending out with a gasket. Hopefully it’s as simple as that and not the window...

F2711155-ABED-44F7-B86F-B234AAE6620C.jpeg

039A0101-1E9B-4E0A-91F1-05B146118E1F.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

Well, here we go again. I am now experiencing leak #4. Sigh :(

 

image.thumb.png.468a79705887c9fb5c5397312dca3d48.png

It's possible this leak is coming from the yellow retainer.  The area of the stain is exactly below where the retainer sits.  It has a very thin and flimsy/delicate gasket that can easily be damaged when you pull the spoiler.  I had the same leak the 2nd time around.  I had to make my own gasket because when I order the part GM didn't include the gasket.

Screen Shot 2021-01-18 at 2.08.40 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-01-18 at 2.09.03 PM.png

Screen Shot 2021-01-18 at 2.11.56 PM.png

 

 

Edited:  Yup, Dali555 beat me to the punch.  My gasket got stuck on the cab side where the retainer goes in.  I thought it was missing the first time I took off the spoiler, but it's there and mutilated.  

Edited by SilveradoRST
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, RWTJR said:

You're a better man than me. I am heading to the dealership to drop mine off right now. If they try three times and are unsuccessful in fixing mine, I will take the loss, trade it in on something else and never buy another GM vehicle.  There is absolutely no excuse for not being able to fix that after 3 attempts. I won't fight with them, they'll just never get another dime of my money (and I have purchased 4 brand new Chevy's in the last 2.5 years alone and still own 3). 

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

 

yeah - I haven't fully made up my mind. Even if they fix it this time, it would have to fail a fifth time by the end of March for the 24 mos lemon law for replacement or buy back. Then beyond that, March of 22 is the three year warranty. There really isn't another truck I'd want, not sure I want to keep this one, and if I go with a 2021, it'll probably leak too. Ugh.

 

1 hour ago, Dali555 said:

Have them check the clips for the spoiler. Here is a pic of before (on my truck) and the “new” style clips GM is sending out with a gasket. Hopefully it’s as simple as that and not the window...

 

 

 

52 minutes ago, SilveradoRST said:

It's possible this leak is coming from the yellow retainer.  The area of the stain is exactly below where the retainer sits.  It has a very thin and flimsy/delicate gasket that can easily be damaged when you pull the spoiler.  I had the same leak the 2nd time around.  I had to make my own gasket because when I order the part GM didn't include the gasket.

 

 

Edited:  Yup, Dali555 beat me to the punch.  My gasket got stuck on the cab side where the retainer goes in.  I thought it was missing the first time I took off the spoiler, but it's there and mutilated.  

 

Back in August they said they used new clips and washers and also resealed the new window. Maybe they screwed that up like they did the previous two attempts. 

 

 

Google Sends Reporter a GIF Instead of a 'No Comment' | WIRED

Posted

I originally took my truck in 13 days ago and they did a water test and confirmed it was leaking but had to order what they referred to as the spoiler re-installation kit. That's why I took it back in today. Mine is leaking from the plastic shroud area over the slider and drips onto the seat back. It does not appear to be from the area of the clips or bolts and hasn't done any damage yet. Hopefully, it won't start to leak from the clips after they reseal the window and re-install the cab spoiler.

 

They actually aren't going to work on it until tomorrow. I am hoping for good results.

 

Thankfully there's no rain predicted. So, I'll just rough it and drive my Camaro for a couple days. I love driving a manual transmission car.

 

I really like this truck and would like to keep it a while but I'll only tolerate so much BS?

 

This picture is from past Saturday morning:

20210116_110346~3.jpg

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, UGADawgs said:

Back in August they said they used new clips and washers and also resealed the new window. Maybe they screwed that up like they did the previous two attempts. 

Man, what a horrific journey you’ve been on. Thanks for always being a steady contributor to this thread, and reporting your process with this. Really hate it for you. 
 

I’m starting to plan out trading my 2019 RST for a new Yukon AT4. Thankfully, my truck’s leaking (only did the reseal... which didn’t work, no surprise) isn’t bad enough to stain the headliner. 
 

But I can tell you this... after going thru this with GM, I’m really leery of getting a Yukon with the all-new pano sunroof. 

Edited by econometrics
  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, RWTJR said:

You're a better man than me. I am heading to the dealership to drop mine off right now. If they try three times and are unsuccessful in fixing mine, I will take the loss, trade it in on something else and never buy another GM vehicle.  There is absolutely no excuse for not being able to fix that after 3 attempts. I won't fight with them, they'll just never get another dime of my money (and I have purchased 4 brand new Chevy's in the last 2.5 years alone and still own 3).  

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

Just like in my signature.. brand loyalty means nothing.  You are replaceable. 

Posted

Add me to the list. 2021 Elevation. Like a lot of you guys, bone dry after a car wash and things like that. But a few drips snuck in after a real steady over night rain. Driver side only. I'm going to wait as long as I can to get it fixed. Rain in upstate NY this time of the year is rare. I figure the longer I wait the more of a handle the dealer will have on fixing it...hopefully in one shot. 

Quote

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, Colossus said:

Just like in my signature.. brand loyalty means nothing.  You are replaceable. 

I agree 100%! Thankfully I don't have brand loyalty. I have purchased 12 brand new trucks from 5 different manufacturers (and that's just the trucks).

 

I only purchased the Chevys because my friend sells them and I like the looks & features. In my opinion, the new generation Silverado is the best looking full size truck, hands down.

 

I hold no reservations about moving on to another manufacturer.

 

JMHO

No expertise implied or expressed

Posted

I'm not in this club yet. It seems like this rear spoiler is contributing to a moisture mess and a dust mess on the rear glass. 

 

To stay out of the water club, is there anything wrong, besides looks, to take something like clear atv silicone and run a bead all along the spoiler? Not making a mess might be a challenge, but I have ran atleast 200 cases of caulking in my previous life. The silicone could be sliced in event the spoiler would have to be removed later. Thinking black rtv would look good on my dark blue paint.

 

After reviewing photos, I think gm using that foamy gasket setting in a inch, is the wrong idea. Some hard type rubber seal, like door seals, that would stick out just a tad like a valve cover would be better.

 

I just can't fathom, how that much water is getting to the top of the window channel from rain or car washes, unless a pressure washer is blowing in that little gap between the spoiler and window frame. The spoiler must be channeling water right to the top of the window frame.

Posted

I think the problem is likely a combination of engineering misses.  These trucks have a spoiler that water can get past in multiple places, a weak window frame that cracks, a poor job of sealing the glass to the frame, tabs and bolts that pass through to the inside of the cab, and a gap between the spoiler/glass/frame that allows water and gravity to do its thing.

 

My concern is that if you completely seal the bottom of the spoiler, the water that gets under it from the top and light will pool underneath.  Then the path of least resistance takes the water through the tab and bolt holes.  Not sealing the channel on top of the glass allows water to make it through the cracks and inside the truck, and it drips in along the rails inside.

 

That is my conundrum when thinking of solutions to the problem.  The only full proof solution at this point is to get a solid window.  The downside of that is it will affect trade in value, because I am effectively removing a factory option.

Posted

I understand the solid rear window. But according to some of these pictures with stained headliners, wouldn't the water be coming thru that cheezy gasket and then on thru that yellow tab or bolt?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Anyone have any info about backorder time? It's classic 4th of July hot here in ohio.
    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...