Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

jeepincbum11 Enthusiast

jeepincbum11

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, BamaBen said:

Mine went in for the 5th repair attempt yesterday.  This time they're replacing the rear window with a new one and they said they're gong to redo the spoiler for a 4th time.  I'm going to ask them for a water hose before I ever leave the lot.

 

Thanks to @Jeepincbum55 I'll make sure I check the level on the rear window replacement when I pick it up. 

What is up with my account?   oye.  It appears my tapatalk account for this site is out of sync with my browser account.   Anywho....  Jeepincbum11 and 55 are me   :) 

 

As for the GAP.  It was a huge difference between left and right.  You can see the frame behind the window near the drivers side top of the glass compared to the passenger side.   The arrows are sitting on the spoiler where the spoiler stops and the window is supposed to start.

 

I asked the dealer if they were happy with the work of the third party glass shop and the service guy is like "HUH".   Service guy didn't even check it out.   So i walked him out and said, what are we going to do about this?   He didn't know how to reply.  So back to the dealer it goes to get the window removed and or reset or replaced.

 

What sucks is this one doesn't leak (YET)  :) 

 

 

gap.jpg

gap2.jpg

  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

Jav_eee Enthusiast

Jav_eee

Posted
Posted
Went in for my first rear window leak repair job last week, service rep said they've done a few now with success. 
The work invoice shows they applied hi-tech sealer to top of rear window and redid the spoiler bolts...per Chevy Bulletin 18-NA-383. 
Still leaking as much now (if not more) when I washed it a few days later.  Scheduled to return next week for round two! 
 
THIS SUCKS CHEVROLET, IT"S A DAMN SHAME....YOU ALMOST BUILT A GREAT TRUCK!
 
Considering all the comments and failed repair attempts I'm losing more confidence in CHEVROLET with every post!! 
I'll be spreading the word to be on the lookout with every Silverado owner I speak to! 
 
GREAT MARKETING CONCEPT, CHEVROLET!!!!! 



GM*** owners. It’s both Chevy and GMC trucks that leak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
BamaBen Enthusiast

BamaBen

Posted
Posted

So my saga may have finally ended...

 

After the 5th repair attempt, it is NOT leaking.  They replaced the entire back glass and remounted the spoiler again.  After major rain here all day, it bone dry in the cab.  I did check the glass install and it's level and square.  The only different thing that I can see is a bead of clear sealant was run between the top of the glass and the cab frame.  You wouldn't notice it if you didn't know it was there.

 

So maybe...just maybe...my 2 year issue is over.  We'll see how long it holds up.

 

As for GM, they have until the 26th to respond to our demand letter.  I will have to decide to move forward with a suit or drop the case if I don't hear from them after Monday.  It's been in repair for 41 days total, which triggers the law in Alabama.

Duramaxsky Enthusiast

Duramaxsky

Posted
Posted

Lots of rain today. Mines still dry. Fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted
So my saga may have finally ended...
 
After the 5th repair attempt, it is NOT leaking.  They replaced the entire back glass and remounted the spoiler again.  After major rain here all day, it bone dry in the cab.  I did check the glass install and it's level and square.  The only different thing that I can see is a bead of clear sealant was run between the top of the glass and the cab frame.  You wouldn't notice it if you didn't know it was there.
 
So maybe...just maybe...my 2 year issue is over.  We'll see how long it holds up.
 
As for GM, they have until the 26th to respond to our demand letter.  I will have to decide to move forward with a suit or drop the case if I don't hear from them after Monday.  It's been in repair for 41 days total, which triggers the law in Alabama.
Maybe you finally got a Bama fan to fix your truck instead of somebody who supports Auburn or LSU

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Haha 2
Bigfoot98 Enthusiast

Bigfoot98

Posted
Posted

Just came across this again after testing it several times with no leak and washed my truck not to long after seeing this poll, now it's leaking on the passenger side. I don't see any damage to the headliner, or carpet on inspection just a small leak from the rail for the slider.

 

The truck is a 1/20 build Silverado RST with rear slider and defrost.

 

I also noticed 9 cracks, yes NINE CRACKS!, on the rail visible from the inside of the truck when looking at the slider from the passenger side.

 

I never go in that seat so I don't know when it started, all I know is the last time I inspected it was in February/March of this year with no cracks or leak and now yesterday found them. Hopefully it just started and this is resolved quickly.

I hope the dealer can see it today so it can get parked inside or plastic covered, they have to call me to schedule it because of the potential service time, can't just walk in unfortunately.

 

Ugh. Fingers crossed that it will be replaced due to being able to see cracks and the new bolts installed for the spoiler since they aren't reusable.

 

wvmountaineers Enthusiast

wvmountaineers

Posted
Posted

Mine goes back in to the dealer tomorrow. I took it there after telling them the problem, last week. They called me first thing in the morning and tell me there’s a TSB for that problem (no kidding) and they have to order bolts.

So I drove it in there, left it overnight for them to do that!!!!!?!??!.

Anyway, bolts are in. Getting “fixed” tomorrow. Why do I get the feeling this is the beginning of a long painful saga?

Hope I’m wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bigfoot98 Enthusiast

Bigfoot98

Posted
Posted (edited)

I read thru the thread pretty extensively since my leak started. Ugh my luck.

I really don't want to go down lemon road with this truck over something so simple but yet obviously something gm is somehow struggling with.

I lemoned my 2018 f150 and got my 2020 rst. I LOVE THIS TRUCK so much more then the Ford and don't want to lose it over this crap, but if it isn't fixed under nj lemon law guidelines then it may be a last resort. I have a year and 14k miles left so there's hope, I had 4 months from issue continuation on the f150 and just dumped it.

 

So my observation seems to be: 

2 leaks, 1 on the broken slider or 1 in the spoiler. The second of which is less common.

A select number of leaks are fixed with the sealant, but some seem to leak still

Most seem ok with a replaced window provided it's installed professionally

Others get relief from the non slider being installed.

 

So with what is going on with my truck I hope that the window is replaced from the get go. 9 cracks are visible inside the cab and went there when tested last month out of precaution or even visible in the past rain storms. I then would like to see the tsb done on the new window.

 

If that fails then I will try and either get it fixed again or just shell out the 500ish bucks for the non slider from a local glass shop. That seems to be the best fix to the crap issue if the new window fails imo and I didn't even want the slider, I just wanted Sirius and the garage opener lol.

 

So for those that had gone with the non slider option, out of preparedness I have a few questions. @Leevon I saw you did this. Any news?

1, what did you pay?

2, how has it helt up?

3, did you have to modify a wiring harness or just pull the fuse for the slider?

 

I just want a confirmation on that stuff so I know what needs to be done in a worst case scenario so I can get my truck back.

Thanks in advance

Edited by Bigfoot98
More info
Leevon Enthusiast

Leevon

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Bigfoot98 said:

I read thru the thread pretty extensively since my leak started. Ugh my luck.

I really don't want to go down lemon road with this truck over something so simple but yet obviously something gm is somehow struggling with.

I lemoned my 2018 f150 and got my 2020 rst. I LOVE THIS TRUCK so much more then the Ford and don't want to lose it over this crap, but if it isn't fixed under nj lemon law guidelines then it may be a last resort. I have a year and 14k miles left so there's hope, I had 4 months from issue continuation on the f150 and just dumped it.

 

So my observation seems to be: 

2 leaks, 1 on the broken slider or 1 in the spoiler. The second of which is less common.

A select number of leaks are fixed with the sealant, but some seem to leak still

Most seem ok with a replaced window provided it's installed professionally

Others get relief from the non slider being installed.

 

So with what is going on with my truck I hope that the window is replaced from the get go. 9 cracks are visible inside the cab and went there when tested last month out of precaution or even visible in the past rain storms. I then would like to see the tsb done on the new window.

 

If that fails then I will try and either get it fixed again or just shell out the 500ish bucks for the non slider from a local glass shop. That seems to be the best fix to the crap issue if the new window fails imo and I didn't even want the slider, I just wanted Sirius and the garage opener lol.

 

So for those that had gone with the non slider option, out of preparedness I have a few questions. @Leevon I saw you did this. Any news?

1, what did you pay?

2, how has it helt up?

3, did you have to modify a wiring harness or just pull the fuse for the slider?

 

I just want a confirmation on that stuff so I know what needs to be done in a worst case scenario so I can get my truck back.

Thanks in advance

I did it myself, so the cost was the window and materials, if I recall  less than $300.  If you're not experienced with this kind of DIY I would find a glass company.  There are some specialty tools.  I sold the truck, but I am 100% sure it was a permanent fix.  No mods, the window regulator / cable assembly got thrown in the trash so no need to pull a fuse.  Hope that helps.  This is nuclear option though, if you're willing to go that route, just seal it up correctly first.  IT CAN BE DONE.  The dealers are just doing a piss poor job.  

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Dropped mine off this morning. Gave me an Equinox...better than the Encore I got last time but I still can’t tow my damn boat. Supposed to be 81 degrees tomorrow. 

Bigfoot98 Enthusiast

Bigfoot98

Posted
Posted

Just got an update for my truck.

Even with 9 cracks gm won't approve a new window. Cheap c@*&suckers.

So they are having their body guys do the window seal tsb.

 

They also found the previous dealer that I had issues with didn't properly fix their screwed up alignment. Instead of correcting the out toe on the right side they put them both out to make the truck go straight. So now for the bast 1.8k miles I was driving on the outside edges of the tires so they are rotating and did an alignment on my dime again but they gave me the report and she is perfectly straight. And I never have to pay for an alignment again so that's nice too.

 

They said they'll have the new bolts tomorrow but the seal is complete and it will be water tested after the cure time. Honestly don't know what to think about they whole ordeal. Really wanted a new window and the tsb done to it but we'll see what happens.

Bigfoot98 Enthusiast

Bigfoot98

Posted
Posted

Thanks @Leevon

Hope it doesn't come to it but of I have to I will have the local glass shop do it.

I want to keep the truck and if it means shelling out 500 with labor to keep it I'll just keep calling gm and harass them into free stuff or something if possible and have it done.

 

It's just such a stupid f@<×÷$# design they made with the window frame and I can't figure out why they won't fix it. 

GN2018 Enthusiast

GN2018

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Bigfoot98 said:

Even with 9 cracks gm won't approve a new window.

Wow.  That's hard to believe.  Is there any way to escalate that decision to a higher level?  I know once, a long time ago, there was something like a regional manager that was the next step if the dealer wasn't getting it right.  Probably don't exist any longer, but unless the cracks are just cosmetic, which I can't see how that could be, I can understand why they won't replace the assembly.  Unless, maybe they have none?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...