Silverado and Sierra Plants In Michigan Shut Down Due To Extreme Cold Temps
Thinking about doing an intake, exhaust, and tune to my new-to-me 2017 Sierra 1500 5.3L 8 speed. I miss the throttle response my 2013 6.2L had, it would lurch forward at the slightest tap of the gas. I also want to hear the engine, its so quiet!
Cold air intakes seem to be disputed for having any performance gains, so are they really worth the $$$ in terms of better air flow? healthier engine? sound? any words of wisdom? Your $0.02 is always appreciated!
I'm looking at the Magnaflow 15267 catback as it seems to sound pretty good for what I'm going for. I've read that there is a flap in the factory exhaust system that creates back pressure for AFM shift into V4 mode. I do like V4 mode and would not want to go away with it. How can a catback system integrate this feature? Also, what would be the rough performance improvements if any from a catback exhaust? Any other options that would sound similar and perform better/keep V4 mode for around the same price as Mgnaflow (~$800)?
As for the tune, I know ZERO about tuning but do want to get rid of the rev limiter, speed limiter, get some performance gains without having to put midgrade or premium fuel in. How does the tuning process work? about how much do they cost? how can it be adjusted in the future? I assume anything like this would void some sort of warranty?
Anyone do something similar and can attest to their experience with an intake, tune, exhaust?
I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors.
My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance.
My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again.
I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant.
Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything?
How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors?
I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right.
Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
My 2016 Sierra 2500HD has 176,000 miles on it already and recently started eating parts. The latest part to fail was the reductant tank heater (DEF Heater). Upon cold start the check engine light came on with code P21DD. After a little reading I learned that this can result in “Limp Mode”. I was in the middle of nowhere in Northern Wyoming. Not cool! I drove down to Denver and replaced it that week. I shot this video of the repair.....
2006 Gmc Sierra 1500 SLT
In KY this year we had some snow so I got out to play in it last night and went to get on it alittle and when I did all my lights inside including my radio dash and even headlights shut off for maybe two seconds like the key had been turned off (truck is still running) and then came back on after everything came back my battery light was on. It is a new battery from end of 2017. Got home had to run back into town and got on the brakes hard one time and didnt complety shut down on me but the lights surged hard having a hard time finding anything on this any input would help.
I have a 1999 chevy silverado 2500hd with a 6.0
The air was stuck on cold so I looked at the actuator and it is working properly. Both hoses in the engine bay are hot. I took off the actuator and tried moving the blend door and it is stuck. Any way to free the blend door so it will open with the actuator?
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 135 Members, 1 Anonymous, 902 Guests (See full list)
- Eric Barr
- Maize & Blue
- RAYS B4U
- Scott Monroe
- BO TIE 1
- Ron Schwartz
- DESERT DOG
- die hard