Jump to content

Do I not understand traction control?


Recommended Posts

Posted

The other day I was merging onto an interstate. I wanted to place myself between a semi and the car behind him. So I kicked it in the a$$ to get up to speed. This puppy just about went sideways on me!  Granted the road was damp, but not wet. I thought I was gonna roll it! Certainly got my attention. Thing I don't understand is why didn't the traction control kick in? My last truck a 2009 Dodge Laramie 1500 2wd, would have been jumping all over me before I ever got to that point. I am beginning to question my purchase of this thing. Or is my traction control defective? I was in 2 wheel high.

 

Ed

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
The other day I was merging onto an interstate. I wanted to place myself between a semi and the car behind him. So I kicked it in the a$$ to get up to speed. This puppy just about went sideways on me!  Granted the road was damp, but not wet. I thought I was gonna roll it! Certainly got my attention. Thing I don't understand is why didn't the traction control kick in? My last truck a 2009 Dodge Laramie 1500 2wd, would have been jumping all over me before I ever got to that point. I am beginning to question my purchase of this thing. Or is my traction control defective? I was in 2 wheel high.
 
Ed
Mine is the same way. Unless it's raining.....then it's on 100% of the time.
Posted

Mine as well. It'll get sideways real quick on wet roads. Kinda wish i had a way to turn down the throttle % for rainy days.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted

Temp is your issue. There is a table for traction control based on ect. Seems silly to me but there is. I set mine to 400* and torque to 1000. Still comes on but incandescent rool the tires a few times first.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Temp is your issue. There is a table for traction control based on ect. Seems silly to me but there is. I set mine to 400* and torque to 1000. Still comes on but incandescent rool the tires a few times first.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Nice!

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok so the stock is -40 so it is the 2nd picture that is the issue. As GB says too many variables in the computer.
But you can also set throttle leave it kicks in. In may play with that and have is more active at higher speeds. 5e38f91725c1d615a0fa354967474934.jpgc263e08e096c920bc72d2b9154f5ce3b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Ok so the stock is -40 so it is the 2nd picture that is the issue. As GB says too many variables in the computer.
But you can also set throttle leave it kicks in. In may play with that and have is more active at higher speeds. 5e38f91725c1d615a0fa354967474934.jpgc263e08e096c920bc72d2b9154f5ce3b.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Let us know how changing the throttle works out man. Id like to eventually make this truck act like the DBW systems and not be as throttle sensitive in the rain.

Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Posted

Am I missing something, the 2nd pictures is the TCC (torque converter clutch) tables, what does that have to do with traction control?

Posted

Trans temp min 104F. Thanks 1Slow1500. Been looking for that number. 

 

9 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Am I missing something, the 2nd pictures is the TCC (torque converter clutch) tables, what does that have to do with traction control?

Goes to torque multiplication. 

Posted

My torque converter is disabled in all gears but overdrive, guess I never have these type of problems. Was one a first things I did.

Posted
8 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

My torque converter is disabled in all gears but overdrive, guess I never have these type of problems. Was one a first things I did.

You have yours locked UP? How did you do that in slip tables are just disable. I ask because this is IMO the most talked about issue with our trucks and more so the AFM/DOD system. As GB and I have tacked about the slip or power and the GM trans issues.

Posted

The opposite. The stock calibrations want the torque converter locked in every gear almost all the time. I set it to disable the converter for all gears but over drive. It's a popular thing to do and many people in the corvette and camaro community do this as well. Should help with converter life too, though that can be driver dependent.

Posted
The opposite. The stock calibrations want the torque converter locked in every gear almost all the time. I set it to disable the converter for all gears but over drive. It's a popular thing to do and many people in the corvette and camaro community do this as well. Should help with converter life too, though that can be driver dependent.
So it's slipping / unlocked most of the time? I am not an expert in auto boxes by any means but wouldn't that wear the torque converter out quicker?


Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT

Posted

The name of the game is fuel mileage for GM, that is part of the reason why it's always trying to be engaged.

 

Over time things have advanced and changed. Take the old 4L60 and 4L80e's, they only had the converter lock in 3rd and 4th gear. When the first 6L80e came out it was allowed in 2-6th gear but not first. Now it's allowed in every gear to try and maximize fuel economy and have minimal slippage and power loss for a smooth driving experience. The AFM/DoD played a large roll in how they want the converter to act.

 

I'm no expert either, but the less that the converter is locking and unlocking the less wear that can happen. The less chance I have to deal with the studder or weird vibrations at lower speeds because the converter is locked in 3rd gear doing 14mph at 1,000rpm.

 

Torque converters are designed to slip and with the low stall speed that these trucks have, they do not produce a ton of heat. So the request that I am asking should not be hurting anything.

Posted
29 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

The name of the game is fuel mileage for GM, that is part of the reason why it's always trying to be engaged.

 

Over time things have advanced and changed. Take the old 4L60 and 4L80e's, they only had the converter lock in 3rd and 4th gear. When the first 6L80e came out it was allowed in 2-6th gear but not first. Now it's allowed in every gear to try and maximize fuel economy and have minimal slippage and power loss for a smooth driving experience. The AFM/DoD played a large roll in how they want the converter to act.

 

I'm no expert either, but the less that the converter is locking and unlocking the less wear that can happen. The less chance I have to deal with the studder or weird vibrations at lower speeds because the converter is locked in 3rd gear doing 14mph at 1,000rpm.

 

Torque converters are designed to slip and with the low stall speed that these trucks have, they do not produce a ton of heat. So the request that I am asking should not be hurting anything.

Yes this and Fuel deactivation force the TCM to change the slip. As it should. We just worry that the on off can cause wear on performance based tune and power adders. I favor lock up in all but OD. With the higher stall and more power I can flash right to 2500rpm issue is when the convert locks up what power/load am I under and can the parts hold that without extra heat and wear. 

All tuners disable many of the factory setting at least at first so they can tell what their changes are doing vs. one of the million variables in the factory tune. 

I will post more pictures.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...