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Hey Everyone, I’ve been looking at this forum for a long time but I’m a new member. I have a 2015 GMC All-Terrain that I’m wanting to level. I’ve been trying to decide between the ready lift 2.25” with the 2” rear block or Rough Country 2.5” with the 2” rear block. I want to run 275/65r20 tires on the stock wheels. I was also considering buying a set of Hellwig helper springs, I pull a trailer a few times a month and don’t want much to any squat. So I guess my questions are:
1. Has anyone done either of those kits with that size of tire? (Please share a picture)
2. Would it be better to do an Add-A-Leaf
in place of the 2” block and Hellwigs?
I have looked through all the leveling kit post and haven’t really found what I was looking for yet.
2007 Silverado 5.3 V8 with AFM with 180,000 miles
Truck had lifter ticking sound and white smoke upon every start up which would go away after a few minutes, no check engine light
Replacement list :
- valve gaskets
- upgraded drivers side valve cover
- valve stem seals
- intake manifold gasket
- exhaust manifold gasket
- 8 new afm lifters
- 8 new non-afm lifters
- head gasket bolts
- engine coolant temperature sensor
- spark plugs
- spark plug wires
- fuel injectors
- water pump
- cam sensor
- crank sensor
After completion of engine reassembly no longer had white smoke upon start up and no ticking sound but flashing check engine light code p0300.
Code p0300 was for cylinder #1, #4, & #7
Moved coil packs between cylinder #1 and #2 to see if coil packs was bad but no change. Set engine at TDC before installing the rocker arms.
All bolts have been properly torque and no parts have been left unplugged or uninstall.
Any possible advice would be helpful
hey all, I have a 2015 chev Silverado 1500 with 56k on it. yesterday (5-22-2020). I was sitting in line in drive and started hearing a loud squeal. thought it was the car in front me until I shifted into park and took my foot off the break and it went away! car moved up so I shifted back into drive and moved forward and it did it again just sitting still until I put it back into park. having lots of problems trying to diagnose it. drove it again today (5-23-2020) and it did it again but not as loud. would could this be? checked the tranny fluid and it was in the normal range. any help is great as I travel for work. thanks
By Ramblin Man
Last summer I purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine, replaced the rear rotor/pads and air filter, then went on a 13,000 mile 8-month road trip starting in Boston, going through Maine, Atlantic Canada, back to Boston for a seasonable job, then to New Mexico via South, back again to Boston through the midwest and finally Florida to help my folks through covid (all safe).
The truck now has 191K miles, but the original title indicated the mileage was not accurate (which is how I got it for $1,200 on eBay), so, who knows. The mechanic who did the rear brakes was surprised how little rust was in the undercarriage. I removed the rear seats, added a mattress and three milkcrates for my stuff, installed a cheap aftermarket radio with bluetooth and a rearview mirror camera. Brake and ABS warning lights were skillfully covered with duct tape by the previous owner, I removed the ABS fuse because ABS kicked in without need when breaking at low speeds (dirty sensors?).
Over the 13K miles I had 2 oil changes + tire rotation at Wally, and poured Bar’s Leaks into the radiator to stop a slow coolant leak out of the intake manifold.
I drove full tanks at different speeds on cruise and averaged:
- ~13 MPG city
- 20.44 MPG at 55 highway (sorry truckers, thanks for not throwing your pee bottles on my windshield)
- 19.53 MPG at 60 highway
- 18.81 MPG at 65 highway
It’s been a hell of a truck, and now in Florida I have a garage + time, and will do some maintenance. Here is my list, I appreciate any suggestions (or requests):
driver side rear caliper/pads/hose (the wheel is a little warmer than the others after driving, and it just started to whistle though pads/rotors are only 13K miles) front rotors and pads, total brake fluid flush check if front hubs need replacement (I occasionally hear a noise when turning left at very low speeds) oil change w/ amazon synthetic + mobil 1 filter trans fluid flush w/ Dexron VI, new filter, and tighten valve body bolts (sometimes tranny thumps from a stop after highway driving, but the fluid is still pink enough) spark plugs and wires (just tested resistance, 7 AC Delco wires are perfect, at about 660 ohms but the 1 shorter Denso wire is at 505 ohms; double platinum AC Delco 41-962s have some gray and orange and could probably go back, but I’ll change just because I went through the trauma of removing them - BTW, three out of the eight plugs have oil in the threads, should I be happy?) fan clutch (not a lot of resistance, and my ac belt “jackhammers” when moving from idle - which according to some of the forums might be due to higher freon temps at idle due to a dying fan clutch) fuel filter clean and seal all grounds both downstream oz sensors (voltage is getting lazy)
I’m predicting that between the freed caliper, new plugs/wires, fuel filter, trans fluid and oz sensors I will see some mpg improvement over the next 10K miles, which will hopefully cover the Pacific Southwest, California and Pacific Canada. Thank you all for sharing you knowledge here, I look forward to putting it all into practice.
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