Jump to content

Long post, 2018 Silverado LTZ steering wheel controls dead


Recommended Posts

Posted

Had my truck worked on at a body shop(dent fix and new windshield) then straight to a proper detailing.

I assume one of the two disconnected my batteries (L5P Durramax).

Now, the buttons and controls on the steering wheel do not respond. 

Confirmed with both shops, nothing was disconnected from the steering column.

Everything else, horn, dash, lights, radio, etc. All function correctly. Only the stero paddles, and menu nav buttons do not work.

 

Scanned all the modules for codes and received back 2 codes in the Instrument Panel Cluster.

DTC 1: B3622-39 Steering Wheel Controls Signal Circuit - Internal Malfunction - (No ****** Sherlock)

DTC 2 : U1510-00 LIN Bus Lost Communication with Device 0 - (Ah yes, Device 0, obviously). I am not sold on the clock spring still as I don't have any SRS module codes.

 

Repair manual says those codes together is a short to ground.

 

Cheryl on-top was this YouTube video,

 

 

Anyone have enough knowledge to help me figure if it's a bad module or a cut wire?

Screenshot_20200419-160813.png

Posted

It’s probably not power because you’d have an airbag light.
It’s probably not ground because G210 is the ground for half the interior and everything works except the controls.
Using a dvom check Circuit 3894 pin 3 at the steering wheel controls to Pin 20 at the instrument cluster, that’s your LIN circuit that’s down. If the circuit checks ok then it needs the controls.
Probably needs the controls.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

By "needs the controls" do you mean it needs new components on the Steering wheel? 

 

Also, something I haven't learned yet, is G210 a "facility" ID or is it a code? I keep seeing bit but electronics is new-ish to me. 

Posted

Thanks for the post concerning the issue with the windshield. Good info in case I ever need to have it replaced in my '17 Silverado. From your description, I bet the windshield repair tech accidently cut a wire shown in the video. A set-up for failure, IMO. Please post what you end up finding.

Posted
1 hour ago, tlaw91 said:

It’s probably not power because you’d have an airbag light.
It’s probably not ground because G210 is the ground for half the interior and everything works except the controls.
Using a dvom check Circuit 3894 pin 3 at the steering wheel controls to Pin 20 at the instrument cluster, that’s your LIN circuit that’s down. If the circuit checks ok then it needs the controls.
Probably needs the controls.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

1 hour ago, jshbatatta89 said:

By "needs the controls" do you mean it needs new components on the Steering wheel? 

 

Also, something I haven't learned yet, is G210 a "facility" ID or is it a code? I keep seeing bit but electronics is new-ish to me. 

 

"Needs controls" that's correct, he's talking the switches in the wheel itself.

 

G210 is the labeling for the ground that those switches and many other components ground at.  The entire steering wheel, HVAC blower and more ground there.  Being you've got two switches out of everything else working, I see his reasoning for it not likely being a ground issue as in the ground point itself.

  

schem.thumb.jpg.4081cb064e34590404ed02b8325e516a.jpg

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...