Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Correct me if I’m wrong. 
 

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500

 

they can fit 33x11.5 factory.

 

Negative Offset in a wheel pulls the wheel out from the inside of the wheel well.

so if I have say a -24 mm offset wheel I can accommodate a wider tire. 
I have mixed reviews on largest tire size. I only have the front leveled 2 in. 
I just ordered a set of 5 pro comp wheels with -38 mm offset. Could pull the wheel out 1.5 inches.

im looking for tires. I wanna run a 305 70 r17

34x12

this should fit with no rubbing?

I forgot to mention I have a barricade pre runner front bumper with skids.

just looking for some reassurance on that tire size before I order. Looking to order on Thursday.

 

99C651B4-C372-41B9-A42F-A93AF38E0129.jpeg

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

If it doesn't fit add a wheel spacer, may as well push those tires right out of the fender!

I’ve come to the conclusion from research 33x12.5 will fit.

-38 mm offset wheels

17x9 wheel

pre runner front bumper

found a set of kendras at a local shop for 925$ going to pick them up at 9. My rims still haven’t processed yet but I’ll still need tpms. Never have done it but the Chevy is worth it.

don’t want spacers they’re trash. Buy the negative offset wheel. I use to sell stuff for Extremeterrain so I’ve learned a little about wheels and also jeeps are trash. Lol

Edited by Alan Bowman
Jeeps
Posted (edited)

My reply on your other thread:
"With -38 wheels and 33.8x12 tires on a 2" level, you'll have some rubbing issues.
I had 33" BFG all terrains, which run a tad small, and I barely cleared on the stock +24 wheels on mine.
If one pushes them out to -38, it will cause some issues without some trimming.
Heck, you might be looking at a NorCal mod (I hate cutting into my truck). "

If you push the wheels out, you'll get more rubbing on the fender without a higher lift.
Quite frankly, I'm not a fan of tires outside the fenders - it just gets your truck dirty and sprays dirt, rocks and water (if it's wet) on those behind you.

Edited by MikeBMW

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...