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Brakes will not disengage after 10-15 minutes of driving.

BrianBrianBrian

By BrianBrianBrian
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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BrianBrianBrian Enthusiast

BrianBrianBrian

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On 1/2/2024 at 7:32 AM, UrbanRage said:

Have you tried turning off the Emergency Automatic Braking in the infotainment system? 

Yes.  I've tried turning off the grade braking, the stabilitrak, traction control, mashing the P-Brake.   None of these options have worked unfortunately 

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asilverblazer
asilverblazer

The picture attached isn't accurate to these trucks but what I'm getting at is the "poppet valve" in the image isn't fully closing or is leaking this would apply the brakes until the vacuum (on the va

mikeyk101
mikeyk101

No, I was replacing the original OEM pads as they were worn down. I cheaper out and bought the O'Reilly's brand BrakeBest pads. No problem with brakes sticking on original pads. However, first set of

Snowcamo
Snowcamo

@160k I replaced my hubs. 

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Westland Enthusiast

Westland

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Posted

Pumping the brakes momentarily relieves the problem?  When the problem begins does the truck pull to one side?  Have you felt the rims to see if one or more is hotter than the others? 

BrianBrianBrian Enthusiast

BrianBrianBrian

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23 hours ago, Westland said:

Pumping the brakes momentarily relieves the problem?  When the problem begins does the truck pull to one side?  Have you felt the rims to see if one or more is hotter than the others? 

Oddly enough, pulling over and pumping brakes and putting it reverse back into drive seems to temporarily get me back on the road.  After speaking with a mechanic friend he sends to think it might be wheel bearing issues.  

I just put it up on Jack stands and when I try spinning the front wheels, I don't get a full rotation freely after letting go.  

 

I don't have a lift or after market wheels.  I do have slight larger tires than factory (33x12.50 R20). I do tend drive in AWD from time to time.   So maybe the bearings are shot? I would've thought bad bearings would've thrown a code or something.

 

To answer your question, oddly enough, there is no pulling to either side.

 

If not the bearings... My new conspiracy might be the torque converter.  But again, that would most certainly throw a code or two given the outcome

 

 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Time to take the wheels off to check the brakes and wiggle the wheel hub. The way it sounds, you should be able to grab the top and bottom of the wheel and wiggle it. 

 

Yes it does sound like bearings. Or brake pads, clanking metal.

Edited by Snowcamo
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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

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FWIW, I just had to have bearing replaced on passenger side. I had noticed my fuel economy had dropped off a bit. But what I really noticed was a noise on turning especially on sweepers. It wasnt a loud noise but a definite change. Driving straight forward was fine but when I turned left, the different noise was present. It went away as soon as I was driving forward again. This pointed to the right, passenger side wheel. Because of outside conditions and the fact that I'm a professional procrastinator, I let the dealer diagnose and they confirmed a bad wheel bearing in right side. I had it replaced and the sound went away. I also noticed that it held the line while driving ahead again as well. I had started getting a bit of sloppy wandering while driving straight ahead and I'm guessing that the additional resistance on the one side had a hand in that.

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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

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Just wanted to add that I also have a Goldwing trike. Last year, I diagnosed bad bearings on right rear side. Surprisingly, I didn't have any back and forth movement when grabbing the wheels but there was a bit of a grinding sound when manually spinning the wheel and it was more pronounced when compared to left side. I bought the replacement hubs from Rock Auto. The hubs were actually front wheel hubs for a 97 Cavalier. They appear to be similar to how the Silverado hubs look. It was stupid simple swapping out these trike hubs and for good measure, did both sides. 

 

I have seen several other threads on the Silverado front wheel bearings and they do seem to be an issue with failing...

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mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

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1 hour ago, Snowcamo said:

@160k I replaced my hubs. 

The only reason I let the dealer do it was because it's still covered under the GM Protection Plan I purchased. Mine done last month was at just over 90k miles.

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Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
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4 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

The only reason I let the dealer do it was because it's still covered under the GM Protection Plan I purchased. Mine done last month was at just over 90k miles.

Rock on man. I use the truck to keep me busy outside. I'm always wrenching on something. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
BrianBrianBrian Enthusiast

BrianBrianBrian

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Posted (edited)

Well...

 

I'm officially tapping out!   I've replaced the brake pedal sensor switch, Both left and right Wheel hub assembly, rotors, pads, calipers, and complete flush.  Still have this damn issue.  

I just came across this post today and his scenario is damn near an exact as to what I'm  experiencing.  
READ THIS POST

 

I  dropped off the truck yesterday, we'll see what the technicians find.   &*()#*#*@)( !!!

Edited by BrianBrianBrian
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Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
On 12/29/2023 at 12:54 PM, Snowcamo said:

Check pedal to booster linkage.

 

If it were me I'd look at replacing the master cylinder or booster. 

 

Maybe just bleed the brakes for the experience? 

^^^

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