Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

General Motors I am beyond disappointed with the customer service I’ve received regarding my truck. I hope my voice gets heard in this matter. June 8th I was enjoying my Saturday, my engine made strange noises when starting my truck and stalled out on me at a light. When I started the truck again it made strange noises and started to smell funny, so I pulled over when suddenly my truck caught on fire. There could have potentially been an explosion injuring or killing me and innocent bystanders.  I purchased the truck in February for 45,000$ and haven’t even put 10,000 miles on it. 

No assistance in putting me in a vehicle since the ordeal. I’ve been paying on the truck and the insurance. Customer service has been very rude to me. They won’t give me any information on the investigation for MY truck stating what caused the fire, however They decided to buyout the vehicle.. still waiting on an offer. I was informed that I won’t be reimbursed for anything I don’t have receipts for. I keep all my receipts in my glove box which caught on fire. Plus there’s many items I travel with that I don’t have receipts for. I had sentimental items in the truck, like a picture of my dad on the dash. 

Buying out the truck doesn’t cover the down payment I just put on the vehicle in February doesn’t cover all the rides I’ve had to navigate and pay for the past month and 9 days.
I’ve been stuck at home all summer, no truck to take my boat out fishing. I am falling into a dark hole I’m depressed. I want my life back. I want to feel like a valued customer. 

#customerservice #customersatisfaction #GMC #chevy #fire #disappointed #share #like #fypviralシ

IMG_7689.jpeg

IMG_7690.jpeg

IMG_7692.jpeg

IMG_7691.png

  • Sad 1
Posted

It sucks, but they didn't have to buy the truck back.  Guessing they are determining there is some defect or fault on their part that they may be trying to cover up if it happened that quickly. Could be in your best interest to not accept the offer until more is brought to light or you may limit what can be ultimately recovered.

Posted

You had it insured. Your insurance company will provide you a replacement vehicle until you find a new one. Assuming it's totaled. GM should basically be out of the picture. It's you and your insurance. 

  • Like 3
Posted
24 minutes ago, Jus Cruisin said:

You had it insured. Your insurance company will provide you a replacement vehicle until you find a new one. Assuming it's totaled. GM should basically be out of the picture. It's you and your insurance. 

^^^ This. Insurance should be handling it They should pay out the value and you move on

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

GM owed you nothing. Theres zero chance of determining the actual origin of that fire other than to say its origin was in the engine compartment. Automotive fires are common, I know because I put a bunch of them out in my 25 yr career. Your story is not unique. This is why you pay insurance. If theres a delay in getting you in a new vehicle its an issue with your agent. Your insurance should have settled with you and then dealt with GM for whatever amount GM decided to contribute. No one is waiting for a cause, it will ultimately be "undetermined" because its extremely expensive and difficult to find. It would cost substantially more than the vehicle is worth. 

Call your agent and let them earn their money.  This is where you find out if all the hype your insurance agent talks is actually true. 

I feel your pain but its just a truck, they build new ones every day, thousands of them actually. No one was hurt and thats whats most important. 

 

Edited by 64BAwagon
  • Like 6
Posted

I'm on the fence with this one. 

 

Vehicle was still under bumper to bumper. I feel this should fall under warranty? This was a mechanical error, not an accident causing the fire.

 

I honestly don't know how insurances work. I always thought it was for accidents, hail, operator error, glass breakage, etc. Not mechanical issues. 

 

Am I to believe now, that my auto insurance is the same as an extended service contract, aka extended warranty? 

 

Help an old fart out.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Also, where is this fire starting? I'm not familiar what I'm looking at. Is this the left front shock tower area?

 

While I'm not in no way blaming the OP, this is one of the exact reasons I carry a extinguisher in every vehicle.

 

I don't expect others to fight a fire with a $20 extinguisher, but I know my actions saved a $250k combine with one. Resulting in a $200 repair in the middle of harvest.

 

Screenshot_20240717_063352_SamsungInternet.jpg.0662436ae6b10df17c69b10e74da93d8.jpg 

  • Like 1
Posted
39 minutes ago, gemarsh said:

I'm on the fence with this one. 

 

Vehicle was still under bumper to bumper. I feel this should fall under warranty? This was a mechanical error, not an accident causing the fire.

 

I honestly don't know how insurances work. I always thought it was for accidents, hail, operator error, glass breakage, etc. Not mechanical issues. 

 

Am I to believe now, that my auto insurance is the same as an extended service contract, aka extended warranty? 

 

Help an old fart out.

 

That's the comprehensive area of an auto insurance policy that covers this situation. Just like a total from floods. 

Posted
3 hours ago, gemarsh said:

Also, where is this fire starting? I'm not familiar what I'm looking at. Is this the left front shock tower area?

 

While I'm not in no way blaming the OP, this is one of the exact reasons I carry a extinguisher in every vehicle.

 

I don't expect others to fight a fire with a $20 extinguisher, but I know my actions saved a $250k combine with one. Resulting in a $200 repair in the middle of harvest.

 

Screenshot_20240717_063352_SamsungInternet.jpg.0662436ae6b10df17c69b10e74da93d8.jpg 

I actually carry 2 in my truck after coming up on a vehicle fire and fighting it

Posted
3 hours ago, gemarsh said:

I'm on the fence with this one. 

 

Vehicle was still under bumper to bumper. I feel this should fall under warranty? This was a mechanical error, not an accident causing the fire.

 

I honestly don't know how insurances work. I always thought it was for accidents, hail, operator error, glass breakage, etc. Not mechanical issues. 

 

Am I to believe now, that my auto insurance is the same as an extended service contract, aka extended warranty? 

 

Help an old fart out.

 

The problem lies in definitively determining a cause. It is very difficult and expensive (if possible) and likely the forensics would cost more than the claim. Theres a large difference between what you think might have happened and what can be proven scientifically. Even though its still under warranty the vehicle has passed through the hands of 2 owners and been out of GM's control since it was shipped to the dealer. They have no idea whats been done to it since it left their control nor does the current owner since he bought it used. We can assume it was a mechanical error but what exactly was it ? were there rodents that chewed through some wiring and caused it ?  Thats a common failure on many late model vehicles.  Too many possibilities. Some of this I blame on TV shows that have 100 scientist working in a lab next to a wall screen showing the entire event as it unfolded. Thats NOT how the world works. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, txab said:

I actually carry 2 in my truck after coming up on a vehicle fire and fighting it

I have stopped a few on my own time with my extinguisher. Its a fine balance between being able to actually have an impact on it and risking injury. Vehicles have a narrow risk vs reward since even a small fire can make a vehicle unrepairable from an economic point. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ah the truck was still under warranty, another person did not come and firebomb his truck. He didn't get in accident which caused it to burn down. No he was driving normally and it decided to incinerate itself.

 

Please im all ears for the so called lmao experts here in this thread who have quickly exonerated GM from any responsibility here. Also please tell me how a flaw with a new truck that burns down to the ground is the responsibility of the insurance company, they are not there to pay out claims because gm has issues with their vehicles self immolating! Also to the OP making this claim might have actual long-term negative effects on your future rates. I would exhaust all avenues before using your insurance here, this responsibility imo should 100% fall on GM! We have had multiple people on this website have their trucks just burn themselves to the ground, maybe they can chime in to see what the process was for them.

  • Thanks 2
Posted

The insurance company if it’s worth the effort will go after whom they think they can get money out of. They’ll search the net or the records of claims to see if there’s a pattern. Yes they should be called first. It’s their job to investigate. Some companies are using soy based wire insulation that mice love. So you can’t rule out rodents. My brother in law had to get rid of a Toyota truck that was constantly dinner for rodents. I have outdoor cats for that reason. They winter in my garage. My brother keeps his hoods open a little. As a deterrent. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

The insurance company if it’s worth the effort will go after whom they think they can get money out of. They’ll search the net or the records of claims to see if there’s a pattern. Yes they should be called first. It’s their job to investigate. Some companies are using soy based wire insulation that mice love. So you can’t rule out rodents. My brother in law had to get rid of a Toyota truck that was constantly dinner for rodents. I have outdoor cats for that reason. They winter in my garage. My brother keeps his hoods open a little. As a deterrent. 

Exactly right insurance will take care of it not GM that's why they're insurance investigators and if need be they will go to GM to get there money but that's a stretch.

 

OP doesn't say if any aftermarket equipment was Installed there's a lot of unanswered questions here. It must be a used truck as he said he only payed 45,000 for it.

 

Just went back and saw his 1st post as it's a 2022 sle and had 25,000 miles on it when he bought it so it's hard to say what happened 

Edited by Silverado4x4
  • Like 1
Posted

As one of the so called "experts" I think I already explained my point. Clearly you have a different view which is your right.

 

The OP hasnt been back since his original post, I believe its time for me to move on. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...