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Posted

What package level is your truck? SLE w/o the LEDs, your HID's will be on as your DRL's. SLT and Denali, your LED's are your DRLs and HIDs come on when it gets dark.

 

 

 

If you have a silverado, they will be on as your DRL's. Not sure what truck you have.

 

I've got a Sierra SLE. I thought it was a little goofy that they turned off when I put the vehicle into park, but turned on when I put it in drive. I've never seen that before.

Posted

 

 

 

I've got a Sierra SLE. I thought it was a little goofy that they turned off when I put the vehicle into park, but turned on when I put it in drive. I've never seen that before.

That's how my old '06 works. Kind of nice seeing as they like to burn out so frequently on my model.

Posted

Yea, anytime your in a gear other than park, your headlights will be on. Your factory bulbs have a dimming feature for DRL, but with HID's you need a relay to give them full power all the time. Without the relay, the bulbs will flicker and intermittently turn on and off. That goes for the Sierra SLE and any silverado package.

 

My 2008 silverado had a fuse under the hood that was for the DRL. If you didn't want the DRL feature you could just pull the fuse and your lights would only come on when it got dark. Not sure if these newer trucks are the same, but just food for thought.

Posted

to those of you who have done the complete projector retrofit, especially on an SLT Sierra, which color would best match the factory LED strips. I currently have a 55W 5K bulb that matches perfectly but I am getting my headlights retrofitted during Christmas holidays. I am planning to stay with a 55W bulb as I prefer the most light I can get and am willing to sacrafice on the shorter life span.

 

thanks in advance.

 

- Mike

Posted

So far so good with the new harness. Does anyone have pictures of where the mounted ballasts and HD relay at? I tried looking through this thread, but after 20 pages it got tedious. Would love some ideas on where to mount them, and the cables as well.

Posted (edited)

So far so good with the new harness. Does anyone have pictures of where the mounted ballasts and HD relay at? I tried looking through this thread, but after 20 pages it got tedious. Would love some ideas on where to mount them, and the cables as well.

I mounted my ballasts on the side of the headlights betwen the headlight and the grille. That way they are out of sight and out of mind.

 

 

I don't have any pictures though and I don't think anyone has posted pics of where they mounted the ballasts. I have watched this thread since it was just 6 pages. It has grown so much and I don't recall a picture like you're looking for.

Edited by Mike1220
Posted (edited)

There is a high pitch noise emitting from one of my ballasts, is this normal?

Edited by SierraAT
Posted (edited)

OK. so i read and read and read on this thread. just want to make 100% sure i don't get the wrong kit. is this the right kit to get for my truck, does is come with the capacitors or whatever.

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-9012.html#.VG_ATPnF9ic

If you call them they will get you the right thing and help you with more info also. The guy I talked to was very helpful.

 

That is the right kit for yours. Dont think the capacitors are included. 55watt kit doesn't need them.

Edited by Crf450r420
Posted

Someone sanity check this and confirm please--

 

I installed 55W HIDs with single beam relay. Works fine at night, but during the day (with the DRLs on) I get buzzing and endless flickering. Sounds like I need a capacitor between the stock output and relay, correct?

Posted

Someone sanity check this and confirm please--

 

I installed 55W HIDs with single beam relay. Works fine at night, but during the day (with the DRLs on) I get buzzing and endless flickering. Sounds like I need a capacitor between the stock output and relay, correct?

It sounds like you need a Harness to give you the correct amount of power. When I spoke with VLEDS, they explained that on our trucks that use our headlights as a DRL, the DRL function only sends about 6 volts of power, for a less bright light. However, HID's need power power than that to properly turn on and stay on. You will need a harness that allows your lights to come on as they were designed (drl function) and still work correctly as your headlights.
Posted (edited)

It sounds like you need a Harness to give you the correct amount of power. When I spoke with VLEDS, they explained that on our trucks that use our headlights as a DRL, the DRL function only sends about 6 volts of power, for a less bright light. However, HID's need power power than that to properly turn on and stay on. You will need a harness that allows your lights to come on as they were designed (drl function) and still work correctly as your headlights.

 

 

I'm no electrical wizard, but I'd think a solid state relay with an acceptably wide operating voltage range would be in order. That buzzing is parts actually moving very very fast and they will eventually fail...in not so long a time.

Trust me...

20140821_181807_zpskbqmi5gw.jpg

 

Hows about one of these?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/DC60S3/?qs=mNyg5qXQ%2FsdpD8JEee%252brpQ%3D%3D&kpid=2139422&gclid=CIKSldvXjsICFUuVfgodrD4AvQ

 

When I go thru things on the truck again for a projector retrofit, I'm going solid state on the relays.

Edited by spurshot
Posted

It sounds like you need a Harness to give you the correct amount of power. When I spoke with VLEDS, they explained that on our trucks that use our headlights as a DRL, the DRL function only sends about 6 volts of power, for a less bright light. However, HID's need power power than that to properly turn on and stay on. You will need a harness that allows your lights to come on as they were designed (drl function) and still work correctly as your headlights.

Forgive my ignorance and I'm sorry if used the wrong terminology, but isn't a relay + harness the same thing? In order words, I do have power coming from the battery. Thoughts?

 

 

I'm no electrical wizard, but I'd think a solid state relay with an acceptably wide operating voltage range would be in order. That buzzing is parts actually moving very very fast and they will eventually fail...in not so long a time.

Trust me...

20140821_181807_zpskbqmi5gw.jpg

 

Hows about one of these?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/DC60S3/?qs=mNyg5qXQ%2FsdpD8JEee%252brpQ%3D%3D&kpid=2139422&gclid=CIKSldvXjsICFUuVfgodrD4AvQ

 

When I go thru things on the truck again for a projector retrofit, I'm going solid state on the relays.

How would I go about installing this solid state ready?

Posted

A relay is a switch. The box that all the wires are connected to. The harness is the whole system to draw power directly from the battery.

Posted

Factory projector..

20130909_212700_zps34af12c0.jpg

Fx-R projector..

IMG_7032_zpsbc9a4a2d.jpg

IMG_7031_zps3049403c.jpg

IMG_7033_zps9cfd82f7.jpg

Also took couple pics at the car wash..

IMG_7036_zps594f9c13.jpg

IMG_7035_zpsbe442d76.jpg

:)

So do your high beams work with your bolts in the way of the blinds springs like this? I did my first one just like this yesterday and when I tested the blinds it jumped a little but didn't move. I had to remove it and modify the install to get them to work.

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