Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone ordered and installed clear lenses only from the Retrofit Source for 2014 Sierra? Looking to get clear lenses but don't want to do a whole new projector.

Posted

I'm setting here holding a Sierra projector. The lense is held in a molded FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) assembly of two parts. There is the nose portion of the projector that holds the lense out away from the reflector bowl, then there is a FRP part I'll call a retainer that goes in behind the lens and holds the lens in.

 

DSC_2796_zps3147b43e.jpg

 

DSC_2802_zpsb2b4c2c5.jpg

 

In the picture above, you can see the pen indicating where the retainer is held by a melted stud (hot plastic "rivet"). You'll need to cut this off to get the retainer out of the nose of the projector. The nose is also attached to the reflector bowl in the same manner, as can be seen at the center top of the reflector. You'll have to put screws in after cutting off the rivet studs.

 

None of the work above is difficult. But it seems to me that the projector itself is a poor performing unit, even with HID bulbs. If you go to the trouble to open the housing, either from the front or back, the projector replacement would be a more logical choice.

 

Many have put the FX-R projector in. But I'm not happy with the fit and the way it has to be modified. I like the RX-350 non-afs BiXenon. The Hella looks like a good fit as well.

Posted

Im having some problems with my recently installed DDM tuning hid kit. I purchased the 55watt kit for the low beams on my 2015 Silverado HD. Install went normal as this is probably the 8th DDM kit ive installed over the years. Install was on Wednesday, Friday I noticed that one or the other bulbs either wouldnt fire or would shut off some time while driving. A quick turn off and on of the lights would bring them back. I then left and drove 10 hours mostly at night and never had a single problem with the lights at all during the trip. Got back in the truck Saturday night and I had nothing. No matter how many times i turned them on and off, nothing. Not even a flicker. Drove with my high beams on for about 30 mins and still had nothing. Just got done inspecting everything. First thing I went for was the fuse because Ive had problems with those before and it seemed fine. Replaced it just incase and nothing. Changed ground, nothing. Inspected the relay and ballasts and all connections and they are good as gold. Pulled the bulbs out and put the stock ones back in and they work just fine. But I did notice that on each of the HID bulbs, they look pretty dirty and smoky. Is it possible that they both shit the bed at the same time or is something else causing the issues? Im lost now. Heres a picture of one of the bulbs.

rZt0yl.jpg

Posted

After doing the switch, did anyone have issue with condensation in the housing? I had both fog lights replaced. And changed a cheap HID kit to another. And now have moisture in my headlight.

 

Thanks

Posted

After doing the switch, did anyone have issue with condensation in the housing? I had both fog lights replaced. And changed a cheap HID kit to another. And now have moisture in my headlight.

 

Thanks

I had some moisture issues. I wrapped some rice up inside of a paper towel and tapped off both ends (I actually rolled up the paper towel around the rice so it couldn't escape since I tapped off both ends) and then I tossed it in the headlights overnight. Pulled all the moisture out.

 

As for sealing it, you'll want to put some silicone around the grommet in the dust cover on the backside of the headlights so that moisture can't sneak in between the grommet and the dust cover.

Posted

Im having some problems with my recently installed DDM tuning hid kit. I purchased the 55watt kit for the low beams on my 2015 Silverado HD. Install went normal as this is probably the 8th DDM kit ive installed over the years. Install was on Wednesday, Friday I noticed that one or the other bulbs either wouldnt fire or would shut off some time while driving. A quick turn off and on of the lights would bring them back. I then left and drove 10 hours mostly at night and never had a single problem with the lights at all during the trip. Got back in the truck Saturday night and I had nothing. No matter how many times i turned them on and off, nothing. Not even a flicker. Drove with my high beams on for about 30 mins and still had nothing. Just got done inspecting everything. First thing I went for was the fuse because Ive had problems with those before and it seemed fine. Replaced it just incase and nothing. Changed ground, nothing. Inspected the relay and ballasts and all connections and they are good as gold. Pulled the bulbs out and put the stock ones back in and they work just fine. But I did notice that on each of the HID bulbs, they look pretty dirty and smoky. Is it possible that they both shit the bed at the same time or is something else causing the issues? Im lost now. Heres a picture of one of the bulbs.

rZt0yl.jpg

 

My guess is you got a set of bad bulbs. That blob is not normal AFAIK. Can you get your hands on a spare bulb to try?

 

John

Posted

I'm setting here holding a Sierra projector. The lense is held in a molded FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) assembly of two parts. There is the nose portion of the projector that holds the lense out away from the reflector bowl, then there is a FRP part I'll call a retainer that goes in behind the lens and holds the lens in.

 

DSC_2796_zps3147b43e.jpg

 

DSC_2802_zpsb2b4c2c5.jpg

 

In the picture above, you can see the pen indicating where the retainer is held by a melted stud (hot plastic "rivet"). You'll need to cut this off to get the retainer out of the nose of the projector. The nose is also attached to the reflector bowl in the same manner, as can be seen at the center top of the reflector. You'll have to put screws in after cutting off the rivet studs.

 

None of the work above is difficult. But it seems to me that the projector itself is a poor performing unit, even with HID bulbs. If you go to the trouble to open the housing, either from the front or back, the projector replacement would be a more logical choice.

 

Many have put the FX-R projector in. But I'm not happy with the fit and the way it has to be modified. I like the RX-350 non-afs BiXenon. The Hella looks like a good fit as well.

^ What he said. I've got a set of FX-Rs in my garage and a set of both TLs and RX-350 bixenons on the way. I'm going to see which I like better and hopefully do a writeup on mounting each type into the aftermarket LTZ housings made by Eagle Eyes.
Posted (edited)

I thought I'd better get going on my HID retrofit and make some progress during the holidays I have off work. I coordinate measured the two projectors (OEM and RX-350 BiX) and started hand making a plate. With these plates, I hope to not have to get into the housing and modify the mount like others had to do to fit the FX-R. I'm planning for a straight bolt it fit.

 

DSC_2804_zps8930aecd.jpg

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
Posted

I'm setting here holding a Sierra projector. The lense is held in a molded FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) assembly of two parts. There is the nose portion of the projector that holds the lense out away from the reflector bowl, then there is a FRP part I'll call a retainer that goes in behind the lens and holds the lens in.

 

DSC_2796_zps3147b43e.jpg

 

DSC_2802_zpsb2b4c2c5.jpg

 

In the picture above, you can see the pen indicating where the retainer is held by a melted stud (hot plastic "rivet"). You'll need to cut this off to get the retainer out of the nose of the projector. The nose is also attached to the reflector bowl in the same manner, as can be seen at the center top of the reflector. You'll have to put screws in after cutting off the rivet studs.

 

None of the work above is difficult. But it seems to me that the projector itself is a poor performing unit, even with HID bulbs. If you go to the trouble to open the housing, either from the front or back, the projector replacement would be a more logical choice.

 

Many have put the FX-R projector in. But I'm not happy with the fit and the way it has to be modified. I like the RX-350 non-afs BiXenon. The Hella looks like a good fit as well.

What do you plan on doing with the oem projector after your retro fit? I have a set of Morimoto minis and would like to see if the lens would fit the oem projector. I also have a set of fxr but am reluctant to install them until i see an install that has a nicer fitment into the oem headlights

Posted

What do you plan on doing with the oem projector after your retro fit? I have a set of Morimoto minis and would like to see if the lens would fit the oem projector. I also have a set of fxr but am reluctant to install them until i see an install that has a nicer fitment into the oem headlights

 

The one in the picture belongs to Bass Mechanic. I owe it back to him in the same condition I borrowed it from him.

Posted

The Retrofit Source sent me a link on how to do a full projector replacement with the FXR and it seemed like there was very minimal issues. Only thing I saw was the new projector had to have corners shaved down for being able to adjust them, but other than that that was it. This now doesn't seem like the case after that last few threads.

Posted

The Retrofit Source sent me a link on how to do a full projector replacement with the FXR and it seemed like there was very minimal issues. Only thing I saw was the new projector had to have corners shaved down for being able to adjust them, but other than that that was it. This now doesn't seem like the case after that last few threads.

I have already attempted the retrofit with my fxr's. After cutting my headlight apart, i found the projector does not sit flush bc of the oversized front cap. I have done retrofits before and i refuse to use glue to hold them in place lol. That was how i saw the diy was done on hidplanet. I havnt been on there for awhile and there may be a new diy available.

 

I will try again when i have more time but i may try and get a bracket made to hold the projector to the oem mounts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 100% agree, there are a lot of variables. I definitely do not drive I’ve like a grandpa but also don’t drive like I stole it. Truck is currently in the shop so I’ll have to get weight later. The price for driving it doesn’t bother me. My precious was a 6.2l so the cost between the two is a wash. 
    • if you want a short turning radius get a short bed Colorado!
    • that is pretty awesome MPG there!  I think so far one observation is these trucks do way better on MPG under 65mph vs 70+ and they really suffer at 75+   I noticed on the stretches into NE on 76 and 80 which is posted 75MPH and I was doing 82 I was getting more like 13.    
    • No ETA is available for that engine at the moment in the GM system.   I would start at the dealer.  Try and talk to the parts manager or service manager and see if they can start a CX Connect case and get an ETA from GM on when engines may be available.  If they just check Parts Workbench and say "no eta", they aren't trying hard enough.  They need to do a CX Connect and chat with DPAC to find the ETA.      
    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...