Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Get a lawyer!!!!!!!!!!!

GM has literally driven me crazy with this

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Posted

IMG_20140531_100424_984.jpg

My $980 totally worth it set of tires! They're LT275 70 18 Nitto Terra Grapplers. They fill up the well nicely and look a lot more aggressive than the stockers

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

IMG_20140531_100424_984.jpg

My $980 totally worth it set of tires! They're LT275 70 18 Nitto Terra Grapplers. They fill up the well nicely and look a lot more aggressive than the stockers

 

Nice and this fixed the 70+ mph steering wheel vibration you were having? Any rubbing in the front when you turn the wheel?

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

 

Nice and this fixed the 70+ mph steering wheel vibration you were having? Any rubbing in the front when you turn the wheel?

They're only one size wider and one size taller than the stock tires and no rubbing. I believe you can go with 285 65's and still not rub. I would 95% say that a wheel vibration is tire related. It would be rare to have a bad CV or something drive related in the front end this early. I couldn't be happier with my truck with new tires at this point. I knew my problem was the tires because I rotated the wheels and the vibration followed the tire that was bad. I wasn't going to go down the same path as my first 14 fighting for things to get fixed so I just got the tires I wanted to begin with. The same tires for the first truck I had with 20's in an LT load E were $1500+ so I waited. These I got @ Tire Kingdom for $225 + installation and taxes. I looked at the Michelin's but liked the look of the Nitto's better. Vibration is 100% gone. Edited by 20Bowtie14
Posted

I am glad I did not let this shake issue stop me from purchasing my truck. It is the best vehicle purchase I have ever made. it is an amazing truck.

 

I wonder what the odds are of getting a dud... 1/1000?? anyhow just thought id post for those in the middle of looking at getting this truck. Do it you wont regret it

  • Like 2
Posted

They're only one size wider and one size taller than the stock tires and no rubbing. I believe you can go with 285 65's and still not rub. I would 95% say that a wheel vibration is tire related. It would be rare to have a bad CV or something drive related in the front end this early. I couldn't be happier with my truck with new tires at this point. I knew my problem was the tires because I rotated the wheels and the vibration followed the tire that was bad. I wasn't going to go down the same path as my first 14 fighting for things to get fixed so I just got the tires I wanted to begin with. The same tires for the first truck I had with 20's in an LT load E were $1500+ so I waited. These I got @ Tire Kingdom for $225 + installation and taxes. I looked at the Michelin's but liked the look of the Nitto's better. Vibration is 100% gone.

 

So are these Nitto's Load E rated?

Posted

I haven't read through each and every one of the 1800+ posts here, but if the vibration is believed to be tire-related, and changing tires seems to solve the issue for some, has anyone researched which tires are the main culpret? (22" Bridgestones here, no vibes.)

Posted

Yes. You feel the road more with the higher pressure E rated tires but its totally worth it not to have vibrations though. Here's the site:http://www.nittotire.com/Tire/Grappler%20truck/terragrappler

 

I feel the road NOW!

 

I haven't read through each and every one of the 1800+ posts here, but if the vibration is believed to be tire-related, and changing tires seems to solve the issue for some, has anyone researched which tires are the main culpret? (22" Bridgestones here, no vibes.)

 

Seems to be the Goodyear Wrangler SR-A tires. 18" in my case.

Posted (edited)

 

Seems to be the Goodyear Wrangler SR-A tires. 18" in my case.

Interesting. I'll try to read through some more of this thread for some details. (I just haven't had a whole day to invest in reading such a huge topic! ) Thanks for the info.

Edited by Luster
Posted

Interesting. I'll try to read through some more of this thread for some details. (I just haven't had a whole day to invest in reading such a huge topic! ) Thanks for the info.

 

Pretty much anything Goodyear. Most I would say being the Eagle LS2's.

Posted

 

Pretty much anything Goodyear. Most I would say being the Eagle LS2's.

OK thanks.

Posted

I had the gas saver 18's and then BF Goodrich rugged trails, then the Goodyear eagle LS 2's. They all made the truck vibrate.

 

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I have th 18", 265/65/18 Good Year SR-A tires. I brought it in for vibration at 70+. The dealer swapped out two of my tires around 1500 miles ago. It was almost fixed after they swapped the two, but it's slowly coming back. I believe mine to be a tire issue. When it first started coming back I noticed that on the 2 older tires...if you ran your hand along the sidewall you'd feel bumps and ripples...but barely on the 2 new tires...well the two newer ones are now like that. I'm right on the line of getting an alignment and 4 Nitto Crossteks put on and see what we have afterwards. I might as well just do it because it could very well fix the whole problem for me. If it doesn't I'm still keeping the truck a while so might as wlel have decent tires on it. I know some people are trading out but I'm not going to do that. You take too much of a loss doing that this early in the purchase, and honestly...I'm getting 19.5 to 20 mpg lately so it's saving me money. Other brand trucks arent going to get the gas mileage these new GM's are getting so i think it's crazy to entertain losing on the trade value vs what's owed, plus a hit to the wallet every time you fill up. I had 5 grand in equity to my trade so there's no way I'm pissing that away. I may have talked myself into new tires just now LOL! They can only help...just sucks to dump the money towards them so early in the game.

Edited by MJFlores

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...