Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't have a 4x4, and by shims do you mean the leveling kit shims? Or something different?

 

At first I was like, I'm taking the lift kit off asap but I honestly don't think the lift kit could cause that issues or I might be wrong. On the rear end it would be the bigger block under the leaf springs, and the front end just those plastic polymer and preload strut spacer in the front.

 

Mine does it around 80-90 accelerating hard only

The shims they put in go under the the transfer case or in you case under the tranny mount and the ones they put in the rear are a wedge block that pointed the pinion downward more so when a lot of torque is being applied the pinion doesnt twist up to far

Posted

Exact same issue and setup level kit rearend and all except I have the 5.3.

My issue came back after a short while. Did yours? Also the shim kit they put in mine are silver almost like a cast something.

Mine has not came back

Posted

Mine has not came back

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

Posted

My exact situation, was looking at an Audi S3...pulled the trigger on the truck though. Dang!

I was looking at the A6 and the S4. Then saw the truck and was like "yep, thats mine"

 

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

Its not lift kits

  • Like 1
Posted

I was looking at the A6 and the S4. Then saw the truck and was like "yep, thats mine"

 

Its not lift kits

 

 

Okay cool, sounds good. I also don't think it's the lift kit causing it.

Posted

Test drove my cousins new 2016 Chevy the white one today with 200 miles and her truck does the same crap that mine with less then 6000 miles is doing the black one. So happy to say it's not the lift kit. Next step is to take the driveshaft to get checked out and hope that's it. I'll report back when I get the driveshaft back from the shop.

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-82370900-1478647495_thumb.jpg

post-164277-0-38783300-1478647511_thumb.jpg

Posted

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

You will have to take it to the dealer and have them ride with you to hear the noise, they will not take it to that speed or drive it aggressive, and if it is the pinion twisting up under hard accel at high speeds then they need to put shims in, the rear wedge shim they put on mine is additional to the block that is under the leaf springs, and they put spacers between the transfer case and the mount but on yours they would put them under the tranny. You could also go to the part store and get some leaf spring clamps and put them 8'' behind the rear leaf spring block, that will help stiffen up the spring pack and stop the pinion from twisting up as far, it wont hurt the ride of the truck either. tThe clamps are cheap also

What was your fix??? Mine only has blocks on the leaf spring and the front lift kit. That's it. No shims on the transmission/ I don't have a 4x4 so no transfer case or front diff.

 

So from your exp with your truck issue it is the lift kit???

You will have to take it to the dealer and have them ride with you to hear the noise, they will not take it to that speed or drive it aggressive, and if it is the pinion twisting up under hard accel at high speeds then they need to put shims in, the rear wedge shim they put on mine is additional to the block that is under the leaf springs, and they put spacers between the transfer case and the mount but on yours they would put them under the tranny. You could also go to the part store and get some leaf spring clamps and put them 8'' behind the rear leaf spring block, that will help stiffen up the spring pack and stop the pinion from twisting up as far, it wont hurt the ride of the truck either. tThe clamps are cheap also

Posted

Test drove my cousins new 2016 Chevy the white one today with 200 miles and her truck does the same crap that mine with less then 6000 miles is doing the black one. So happy to say it's not the lift kit. Next step is to take the driveshaft to get checked out and hope that's it. I'll report back when I get the driveshaft back from the shop.

Im not saying its your leveling kit, im saying its probably your rear drive shaft angle when under hard acceleration at high speeds over 75mph like mine was. If you check the angle while sitting on level ground it could be ok, but when high torque is applied to the rear end like while driving at high speeds and then flooring the gas peddle the angle can be way out of spec, i think the reason for this is the spring are to soft for the first couple inches to give a better ride which then makes the differential twist up and down to much, that is why if you try the leaf spring clamps behind the block it will stiffen up the spring pack so it dont twist as much.

Posted

I know, but I was kinda concern at first. I thought it was the damn lift kit but thankfully my little cousin just bought her new Chevy and hers is doing the same thing mine is, so that rules out the lift kit. I'll look into the clamps, actually if you have pics that would be great! But I still want to get the driveshaft inspected at a driveshaft shop. Only then I'll be okay

Posted

Funny, I was told by the dealer that I would have to pay them to balance my duratracs before they would move on to pooming at the driveshaft. I asked for a road force balance and they didnt know what that was.....

Ask around for the name of the GM Zone Manager or better yet, everyone with a problem should post to social media: twitter and use @chevy or @chevrolet in their post. GM monitors social media for this stuff and that will get their attention believe it or not. I had a problem with ADT and raped them on twitter and got a direct message from corporate offering to rectify the problem

 

This is from twitter

"@chevrolet @JHNemechek The new Silverado shakes and vibrates on the highway. Has GM figured out this problem yet?

 

Use Facebook if you have it or twitter and put it everywhere. This is what it takes now

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Family member (close) is service director for large chevy store. Has worked in chevy for twenty years. He has been told to take trucks in, rebalance wheels and send them on their way. If they come back replace wheels... said they had four more come in last week with bad vibration at 65-70mph. Secondary issues are hard shifting so there is def an issue with powertrain. I told him I found this string on the forum and he suggested passing along the info.

 

Might be an inconvenience to do so but bring it back for the same problem and continue to do so until they address. GM has zone managers that oversee dealers and manage recurring issues. They are well aware and if it is newer, you can force a buyback by GM. Buybacks go back to the dealer and they resell usually with a longer GM sponsored warranty as an incentive but you need to escalate it from the dealer level to get this resolved. Dealer will do nothing to facilitate a buyback

Hope that helps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My buddy has a 2015 and had hard shifting issues. At first he got the transmission is learning routine, After 6k problem was still there, took in for first complimentary service to local dealer, he bought the truck in Nevada at a different dealer, the only one he could find as a SLT with max tow and a leather bench seat in the front. Anyways, local dealer said maybe it just needed a reflash or program update. Local dealer calls back in 45 minutes and asks if he bought the truck brand new because it was 2 quarts low on transmission fluid. Topped the tranny off and it shifts just like is supposed to. Local dealer said the selling dealer should have caught it because it's parts of the process when receiving the trucks from the factory to check all fluid levels.

Posted

I've had a vibration with mine since I bought it with 8 miles on it, has about 6,000 on it now. Road force balanced tires 2 times, didn't really help. WELL! One of our techs found this today, and we checked another one with a vibration, and sure enough, same thing. Something with the left rear axle/face on the axle is out of round. I put a magnetic screw driver on the e-brake shoe as a reference. Watch the gap between the axle face and the screwdriver.

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Correct.

 

It's hard to tell if the studs are running true, we are going to put an axle in one of them and see if that does it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...