Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just picked up my truck from the dealership. While testing them on the load balance machine they discovered that both front tires were out of tolerance. They replaced both front tires And load balanced them. So far, the truck rides much better. It's not perfect but substantially better. The tires are Goodyear Eagle LS-2, P275/55R20's. I'll be making a long distance run within the week so time will tell. I'll keep y'all posted.

Posted

Drove an hour away to a driveline specialist today and it turned out to be pretty much a wasted trip. They were shocked that I was bringing them a brand new vehicle. Literally the first words out of the mechanics mouth was "and what year is this truck!?" So I explain the issue and noted that there are others out there like this to which they reply "never heard of this problem". So we take it for a test drive... I'm in the passenger seat and I can feel the vibration. Granted I'm very in tune to it now. So we drive for about 15 minutes and he doesn't feel vibration. Stated that it feels like every truck he drives. I will admit that the vibration has improved since the new tires and wheel but I know for a fact that it's still there. The roads in that area weren't the greatest either so he was able to get a feel of how it drives on a flat surface. So we make it back to the shop and I start asking if the drive shaft could be checked to make sure it's running true. He tells me that he didn't really feel any vibration but the little bit he did, it was "100% not the drive shaft". He began to tell me of how he's been doing this for a long time and the vibration he felt did not match what he thinks would be the same frequency as driveshaft issues... He telling me that it must be the tires. So another truck pulls into the lot, it's an 03 Silverado. The mechanic knows him and states that this guy also has a 2015 with a 6.2 L. The mechanic asks the guy if he has had any problems with his Silverado in the most vague way possible. He states "**** yeah I do. It vibrates from 40-55 in the steerwheel"! literally sounds like I gave the guy my truck. So the mechanic asks "have you had anyone try and fix it? What are you going to do about it" and He says "I'm going to get rid of the damn thing" (Probably why he's driving the 03)... The guy with the 2015 also stated that he knows of someone who also has some problems but when they leveled it, it was significantly reduced. Whenever I have something heavy in the bed of the truck it definitely is a lot better. So the mechanic is still convinced that it's not the drive shaft and that I shouldn't waste my money when it's under warranty which I appreciate the honesty but I still wanted to have the drive shaft measured. Also nothing against this place, the mechanic seemed like a good guy with some knowledge but idk how a quick drive down a bumpy road can give a definitive answer. I left empty handed and went online to buy a dial indicator so I can measure it myself and maybe I'll have the dealer install the 1.5 level. If it do it that way then they said it will be still under warranty. Also I'm about 2 seconds from giving up and driving it how it is. Maybe I'll try different tires when these wear out. I'm really on the edge of defeat....

Posted (edited)

Drove an hour away to a driveline specialist today and it turned out to be pretty much a wasted trip. They were shocked that I was bringing them a brand new vehicle. Literally the first words out of the mechanics mouth was "and what year is this truck!?" So I explain the issue and noted that there are others out there like this to which they reply "never heard of this problem". So we take it for a test drive... I'm in the passenger seat and I can feel the vibration. Granted I'm very in tune to it now. So we drive for about 15 minutes and he doesn't feel vibration. Stated that it feels like every truck he drives. I will admit that the vibration has improved since the new tires and wheel but I know for a fact that it's still there. The roads in that area weren't the greatest either so he was able to get a feel of how it drives on a flat surface. So we make it back to the shop and I start asking if the drive shaft could be checked to make sure it's running true. He tells me that he didn't really feel any vibration but the little bit he did, it was "100% not the drive shaft". He began to tell me of how he's been doing this for a long time and the vibration he felt did not match what he thinks would be the same frequency as driveshaft issues... He telling me that it must be the tires. So another truck pulls into the lot, it's an 03 Silverado. The mechanic knows him and states that this guy also has a 2015 with a 6.2 L. The mechanic asks the guy if he has had any problems with his Silverado in the most vague way possible. He states "**** yeah I do. It vibrates from 40-55 in the steerwheel"! literally sounds like I gave the guy my truck. So the mechanic asks "have you had anyone try and fix it? What are you going to do about it" and He says "I'm going to get rid of the damn thing" (Probably why he's driving the 03)... The guy with the 2015 also stated that he knows of someone who also has some problems but when they leveled it, it was significantly reduced. Whenever I have something heavy in the bed of the truck it definitely is a lot better. So the mechanic is still convinced that it's not the drive shaft and that I shouldn't waste my money when it's under warranty which I appreciate the honesty but I still wanted to have the drive shaft measured. Also nothing against this place, the mechanic seemed like a good guy with some knowledge but idk how a quick drive down a bumpy road can give a definitive answer. I left empty handed and went online to buy a dial indicator so I can measure it myself and maybe I'll have the dealer install the 1.5 level. If it do it that way then they said it will be still under warranty. Also I'm about 2 seconds from giving up and driving it how it is. Maybe I'll try different tires when these wear out. I'm really on the edge of defeat....

That's insane. You should have told him to take out to driveshaft and check it anyways. The driveline shop I'm going to on Saturday told me the same thing but said if I still wanted them to check and balance the driveshaft, he'd change $70 and would have it done by the end of the day. Your mechanic seemed like he didn't want the work.

 

I will report back on what they find on Saturday.

Edited by EspoMan
Posted

Drove an hour away to a driveline specialist today and it turned out to be pretty much a wasted trip. They were shocked that I was bringing them a brand new vehicle. Literally the first words out of the mechanics mouth was "and what year is this truck!?" So I explain the issue and noted that there are others out there like this to which they reply "never heard of this problem". So we take it for a test drive... I'm in the passenger seat and I can feel the vibration. Granted I'm very in tune to it now. So we drive for about 15 minutes and he doesn't feel vibration. Stated that it feels like every truck he drives. I will admit that the vibration has improved since the new tires and wheel but I know for a fact that it's still there. The roads in that area weren't the greatest either so he was able to get a feel of how it drives on a flat surface. So we make it back to the shop and I start asking if the drive shaft could be checked to make sure it's running true. He tells me that he didn't really feel any vibration but the little bit he did, it was "100% not the drive shaft". He began to tell me of how he's been doing this for a long time and the vibration he felt did not match what he thinks would be the same frequency as driveshaft issues... He telling me that it must be the tires. So another truck pulls into the lot, it's an 03 Silverado. The mechanic knows him and states that this guy also has a 2015 with a 6.2 L. The mechanic asks the guy if he has had any problems with his Silverado in the most vague way possible. He states "**** yeah I do. It vibrates from 40-55 in the steerwheel"! literally sounds like I gave the guy my truck. So the mechanic asks "have you had anyone try and fix it? What are you going to do about it" and He says "I'm going to get rid of the damn thing" (Probably why he's driving the 03)... The guy with the 2015 also stated that he knows of someone who also has some problems but when they leveled it, it was significantly reduced. Whenever I have something heavy in the bed of the truck it definitely is a lot better. So the mechanic is still convinced that it's not the drive shaft and that I shouldn't waste my money when it's under warranty which I appreciate the honesty but I still wanted to have the drive shaft measured. Also nothing against this place, the mechanic seemed like a good guy with some knowledge but idk how a quick drive down a bumpy road can give a definitive answer. I left empty handed and went online to buy a dial indicator so I can measure it myself and maybe I'll have the dealer install the 1.5 level. If it do it that way then they said it will be still under warranty. Also I'm about 2 seconds from giving up and driving it how it is. Maybe I'll try different tires when these wear out. I'm really on the edge of defeat....

What gear ratio do you have in the rear end? 3.08 and a third order tire vibration will feel the same on the road because they are so close to the same frequency , But a first order tire and 1st drive shaft vibration will feel totally different.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm about 2 seconds from giving up and driving it how it is

 

Don't give up Schmidt!! That's exactly what the fuk'rs want.

Posted

What gear ratio do you have in the rear end? 3.08 and a third order tire vibration will feel the same on the road because they are so close to the same frequency , But a first order tire and 1st drive shaft vibration will feel totally different.

I believe I have a 3.08 but I'm not 100% certain. I'll have to check on that. My truck is a 2016 double cab LT with a 5.3L. I believe I do have the towing package because I have the trailer brake above the headlight knob.

Posted (edited)

I believe I have a 3.08 but I'm not 100% certain. I'll have to check on that. My truck is a 2016 double cab LT with a 5.3L. I believe I do have the towing package because I have the trailer brake above the headlight knob.

Trailer brake = 3.73.

Edited by Severado
Posted

 

You just had the 10,000th post to this thread. Abominable, tell him what he wins!

I won a life lesson good sir.

 

I've driven almost 10k in this truck too. Less than 6 months of ownership and I miss my 03' VW that ran like a champ. Maybe I'll just trade my truck for something else and call it day.

 

Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

HERE is the 10,006........................Fresh off the F150 site!

 

I am having similar issues with my 2016 Platinum. However, they are much worse in sport and towing modes. Ford has stated that these are normal operating characteristics and that it is my driving style that is causing the issues. A co-worker of mine blew his rear differential at 800 miles. He and I also have vibrating in the drive shaft and steering wheel with humming coming from the transmissions. We bought our transmissions in different states and nearly six months apart. There is a much larger issue here and Ford is obviously trying to cover it up.

Posted

That's insane. You should have told him to take out to driveshaft and check it anyways. The driveline shop I'm going to on Saturday told me the same thing but said if I still wanted them to check and balance the driveshaft, he'd change $70 and would have it done by the end of the day. Your mechanic seemed like he didn't want the work.

 

I will report back on what they find on Saturday.

Yeah not a very good shop that doesn't seem to want to help anyone, I would take the shaft out and just take it to a Real Driveline shop that provides a worth while service.

 

RT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...