Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

HERE is the 10,006........................Fresh off the F150 site!I am having similar issues with my 2016 Platinum. However, they are much worse in sport and towing modes. Ford has stated that these are normal operating characteristics and that it is my driving style that is causing the issues. A co-worker of mine blew his rear differential at 800 miles. He and I also have vibrating in the drive shaft and steering wheel with humming coming from the transmissions. We bought our transmissions in different states and nearly six months apart. There is a much larger issue here and Ford is obviously trying to cover it up.

Nooooo!!!! Say it ain't so!!!! Ford F-150 "with similar problems"? Can not be :) ...

  • Like 1
Posted

but but but.. Fords are supposed to treat people better.. they don't have issues like this.. It's a Ford... Its a true blue american truck! Fords are better than Chevy! They have to be! We don't have shake issues, we have a cool little turbocharged engine!

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

It's not, go read the thread lol

 

 

2015 F150 3.5EB rough shifting

 

Greetings.

New to the forum, new to Ford. Bought my first one last August. 2015 F150 XLT.

I've noticed an issue when cruising along under very light acceleration (just cruising) and you feather on the gas for a slight hill etc. Any other vehicle it's never been an issue. With this one, I often notice a clunk (hard shift)as it shifts from day 5 to 4 or 4 to 3. Sometimes it really sounds loaded down and I have to hit the gas harder even though I don't want to accelerate, just maintain speed. Interstate off ramps with a 180 are the worst.

It seems to drive much better if I use sport mode or tow mode.

Maybe unrelated but it seems like it takes a while to shift from 4 to 1 or 3 to 1 when at a stop sign. I have to consciously have to wait until it downshifts. An extra 1-2 seconds after I would normally go. If I don't, again it loads down or clunks.

It seems like in regular mode it is trying too hard to maintain lower RPMs.

I did go to the dealer and got a TSB updated. It does seem better (25-40ish) but still seems not quite right.

Any suggestions? TIA

 

 

 

 

 

FWIW, dealership re-applied the TSB because they said there was an update. My shifting problems (low acceleration, slow to downshift at corners stop signs etc ) are gone. It's awesome.

It is possible the first time when they applied it they didn't download the latest map. That was part of the TSB instructions. Or if they did maybe there really was another update to the map. Dunno.

Now just have the occasional rough shifting between gears and I'm all sorted out!!
Edited by C6Bill
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Nooooo!!!! Say it ain't so!!!! Ford F-150 "with similar problems"? Can not be :) ...

 

It's not, go read the thread lol

 

 

 

 

trans clunk, not a constant shake when driving. Carry on everyone.

 

Hi Bill, thanks for clarifying it

Edited by Jesse D
Posted

trans clunk, not a constant shake when driving. Carry on everyone.

 

Hi Bill, thanks for clarifying it

Whew! What a relief!

  • Like 2
Posted

But those Honda Civic's with the paint peeling off the hood, now that's the same issue right lol

  • Like 1
Posted

Update 2

 

As some of you know, I have a shake/vibration issues between 70-82mph, where the entire center console shakes pretty bad. I also had vibrations under my driver's seat.

 

I had my truck at a driveline shop yesterday and they confirmed my driveshaft was out of balance. They also said there was minor run-out but not bad enough to where he felt it would create issues. They fixed the balance issues and reinstalled the driveshaft for $70 out the door.

 

Well today I had a lot of time to test the truck. I took her on a 25 mile test drive on open roads. The seat vibration is practically gone, I'd say 98% gone if I had to give it a number.

 

Now the bad news. The center console still shakes pretty bad between 70-82mph, especially on good roads.

 

My guess at this point is the tires. I'll go for visit 4 at the dealership soon. I don't have much hope that they'll actually fix it.

Posted

Update 2

 

As some of you know, I have a shake/vibration issues between 70-82mph, where the entire center console shakes pretty bad. I also had vibrations under my driver's seat.

 

I had my truck at a driveline shop yesterday and they confirmed my driveshaft was out of balance. They also said there was minor run-out but not bad enough to where he felt it would create issues. They fixed the balance issues and reinstalled the driveshaft for $70 out the door.

 

Well today I had a lot of time to test the truck. I took her on a 25 mile test drive on open roads. The seat vibration is practically gone, I'd say 98% gone if I had to give it a number.

 

Now the bad news. The center console still shakes pretty bad between 70-82mph, especially on good roads.

 

My guess at this point is the tires. I'll go for visit 4 at the dealership soon. I don't have much hope that they'll actually fix it.

 

Keep hope alive. I'm probably going to take the loss on a trade. I have better things to do than figure out a multi-billion dollar company's engineering shortcomings. Great looking truck, nice tech, but it's been a poor experience.

Posted

 

Keep hope alive. I'm probably going to take the loss on a trade. I have better things to do than figure out a multi-billion dollar company's engineering shortcomings. Great looking truck, nice tech, but it's been a poor experience.

If I could I would. I took a big hit trading in my 2013 ford edge for this truck. My Edge was having tons of issues. Traded it in for another car with issues. Great luck right ??
Posted

I'm not so sure luck has anything to do with it, just the new norm of auto manufacturing I suppose.

Posted

Correct.

 

It's hard to tell if the studs are running true, we are going to put an axle in one of them and see if that does it.

 

I'm curious about this too.

Posted

But those Honda Civic's with the paint peeling off the hood, now that's the same issue right lol

For sure. Also, all you cold weather dudes and dudettes who live up there where your roads are salted and drive Tundras should be aware of the recent rusting frame recall. Don't know how they're going to do that. Should be interesting.

Posted

 

 

Today, Toyota has recalled 110,000 1st generation Toyota Tundras due to frame rust concerns. Specifically, this recall requires dealers to inspect the rear cross member and rear brake line mounts on 2000-2003 Tundras for significant rust. If dealers find that the frame’s rear cross member or brake line mount has significant rust, the corroded parts will be replaced as soon as possible.

 

Well at least they are admitting there is a problem and are trying to fix it lol

  • Like 2
Posted

Well at least they are admitting there is a problem and are trying to fix it lol

No argument here. My wife drives a 2007 Avalon Limited and I can't pry her out of it, she lived that car. It's had two recalls in it. The supposedly sticking gas throttle which was actually caused by people to stupid to replace their drivers side floor mat after cleaning their car, mat would be flipped on top of the pedals. Others was a dash boars replacement, did it on my wife's car about six months ago, car was 9 years old. The problem with getting a recall established on this shaking/vibration issue is that it can't be attributed to a single cause. If you read through these 670 pages you wind virtually every part or component blamed except maybe the lug nuts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Would you supercharge the 6.2L on a 2021 GMC Yukon Denali XL with ProCharger?.... 605HP is the stated number without going crazy - it's not the LT4 682HP package, but I'm tempted to install it... This vehicle was ... not... recalled on the engine swap - but I don't really know if that means ...don't do it... or do it;)    Maybe i should start a prediction market pool on it in case it blows up;)   Any thoughts appreciated - I already OWN the supercharger - stopped the installation when the recall was announced and now it's taking up space in storage until I can solve an electrical issue with the vehicle...  4th GMC suburban-equivalent truck - I like them a lot - when they don't a) discharge their batteries randomly, or b) throw a rod at highway speeds;)
    • We tested the sleep mode with an ammeter in series with the negative battery terminal - 30amp fused - so we do know the actual shutdown and non-shutdown current draws and timing of the shutdown sequence.  We just have no protocol information to determine what module is issuing the network keep alive.  
    • TrueBlue...Even if you don't have that info stuff displayed, If Mr. Computer thinks there's something you should know about, it will pop up a warning message no matter what else is being displayed. I keep the speedometer displayed all the time, yet the brake pad message pops up anyway.
    • BTW, the 11.5amp draw is all the usual systems active - it's not a single draw - that's the "we're all awake" state of the vehicle - forinstance if the power steps are actuated, the draw will spike to 22amps for that operation.  when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected, the vehicle shuts down that one time only - and we see a 10-15minute progression down 11.5  10.5  9. 8 6. 5. 1.6... 500ma... and then off to sleep at 40 milliamp... as expected.  So we know it's a module that is simply refusing to allow the SDGM to proceed to the sleep state.  We do NOT think it is the telematics VIM module - since we already duplicated the problem with the "VIM bypass" solution installed (we reverted that since it also disables the gmc app - but it does not appear that the telematics system is the culprit).  We've replaced the rear heater control module, tested without the wireless charger, and the other modules on CAN Bus 5 - but still something is keeping us awake and removing X2 from SDGM allows sleep to proceed.  We cannot diagnose from OBD since OBD drops off at about the 9volt level in sleep mode and we can't communicate with the vehicle - also we can't trace the SDGM internal packets from the OBD side - we have Autel Ultra.   Any ideas on why disconnecting X2 would allow sleep to proceed appreciated.  This is no longer a repair situation - this vehicie is simply unusable in this condition and NOBODY at GMC Dealer can even understand what it is doing.  This is crazy.  We made these systems too complex and now we're paying the price.
    • Did this ever get solved?   I'm chasing 2021 Yukon Denali electrical issues - vehicle will not enter sleep mode - we can disconnect and reconnect the battery and it will sleep - but that's likely because we powered down whatever module doesn't correctly sleep.  once we start/accessory the vehicle and turn off, it will stay at 11.5 amp draw with something keeping the SDGM alive - it appears to be activity on the X2 segment, specifically CAN FD Bus 5 - but we don't know which device and we think we've already isolated all of the devices on that segment - so what keeps the BCM and/or the SDGM alive is unknown.   I don't yet have a packet trace from CAN 5 (and since this Global B we might not get much info from it) - but the vehicle has been down for 8 weeks and previously GMC Dealer was unable to resolve "kills battery" issues with this particular vehicle - so I'm at a loss - it seems to be beyond local repair capabilities - and the number of "telematics keeps vehicle from sleeping" posts indicates this whole architecture has major issues - I hate to say it, but we might have to install a battery cutoff switch on the front grill - one of those red boat switches - to turn off the vehicle.;)  Any pointers appreciated;)  I just bought a CAN FD interface and I'm planning to try Savvycan and Peak Can SW to triage this further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...