Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just was the post from the corvette owner top of page and that is what was described to me regarding a tooth or gear that was out of acceptable tolerances. Sounds about right

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

When I get a chance I'll take out the drive shaft and go to a local shop here in Houston Texas and get it checked out. Hope it helps/ it's the solution for me

Posted (edited)

Here is the update on what they are seeing, he said that seven out of 10 of them tend to be fine, It tends to be more common in different configurations long beds extended cabs double cabs they think it might be related to issues with driveshaft which he said is The longest they have ever been. There is some truth to the issue being caused by tires specifically 22 inch wheel packages with Bridge stone or continentals mounted on them. They have rectified the problem in some instances by putting Michelin's on them. There was some discussion about a bulletin coming out related to the ring gear not being in specification, unacceptable variances on the teeth causing a vibration at speeds. Some of you may know this but GM will put out a bulletin ahead of a recall, if the vehicle comes in with the problem they can fix it per the bulletin but it saves them the money of doing a full recall. He feels there are secondary issues with GM putting too large and too wide of a tire on the truck that is not designed for it but that is more of his opinion. I would be curious as to how many folks with this problem have Bridgestone or continental tires, that may be the best place to start in terms of fixing it, get those tires off and have your dealer spring for Michelin's or a better tire.

GM is keeping a close eye on this but they do not want to address it in mass, and will continue to push the dealers to go with the tire balance agenda

Good luck, I think I will continue to drive my 2006 Silverado for long as I can

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thank you again daleone3! I've mentioned here before that I figured GM and their engineers knew the cause/causes of the vibration problem. I'd bet the fk'n GM bean counters have sat in smoke filled rooms several times discussing ways to avoid the issue as best they can and as long as they can. Pretty sad, especially after we bailed the SOBs out with our tax money. And jerking customers off like they have been, and will likely continue to do, will do nothing but hurt their customer base. Well, at least it sounds like they realize (hopefully) something has to be done.... bulletin will prolly happen sometime after hell freezes over LOL.

Edited by Willyone
Posted (edited)

I've read a lot of the post on here and my issue a strange vibration around 80-90mph when gunning it. I did get the balanace and rotation done and helped while cruising at 70-80mph. So while driving normal (70-80mph) no vibration at all, really smooth drive but when hitting the eccelarator and gear down shifting getting up to 90mph, I feel a vibration in the rear end which is bothering the hell out of me. It's not a huge vibration but noticeable at those speeds. Wheels are already balanced and rotated and from one person fix was getting the driveshaft checked out and balanced/ fixed.

Also I recently installed RC 2.5" leveling lift kit but I highly doubt the lift kit is causing a vibration while getting on the accelerator at 80-90mph.

I had the same issue and it ended up being my drive line angle was off, I also have a 2'' leveling kit. They put shims in the rear with the larger end facing the front of the truck and shimmed the transfer case up. What was happening was under acceleration while moving the truck that fast the engine was applying a lot of torque to the rear end which twists the rear pinion upward and makes the drive shaft angle off. Mine would only do it when i was traveling 75mph or more and accelerated hard. The joints need to cancel one another out with torque applied to them. I also have the 6.2 engine with 373 gears, so that also applies more torque to the rear end.

Edited by Silverado 6.2
Posted

I had the same issue and it ended up being my drive line angle was off, I also have a 2'' leveling kit. They put shims in the rear with the larger end facing the front of the truck and shimmed the transfer case up. What was happening was under acceleration while moving the truck that fast the engine was applying a lot of torque to the rear end which twists the rear pinion upward and makes the drive shaft angle off. Mine would only do it when i was traveling 75mph or more and accelerated hard. The joints need to cancel one another out with torque applied to them. I also have the 6.2 engine with 373 gears, so that also applies more torque to the rear end.

I guess the one problem I have is that they are selling brand-new trucks with a problem and you are coming back and getting shims was put into the driveline that will obviously need replacement at some point will be prone to failure overtime and miles. Chevy has been doing this shit for years, I have had three Dodge trucks in the past five years and I have to tell you that the drivetrain is far more buttoned up then anything Chevy is putting on the road. I still have my 2006 Silverado with 140k and will drive that into the ground before I give them any money for a substandard product that has to be shimmed and rebalanced constantly.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I had the same issue and it ended up being my drive line angle was off, I also have a 2'' leveling kit. They put shims in the rear with the larger end facing the front of the truck and shimmed the transfer case up. What was happening was under acceleration while moving the truck that fast the engine was applying a lot of torque to the rear end which twists the rear pinion upward and makes the drive shaft angle off. Mine would only do it when i was traveling 75mph or more and accelerated hard. The joints need to cancel one another out with torque applied to them. I also have the 6.2 engine with 373 gears, so that also applies more torque to the rear end.

I don't have a 4x4, and by shims do you mean the leveling kit shims? Or something different?

 

At first I was like, I'm taking the lift kit off asap but I honestly don't think the lift kit could cause that issues or I might be wrong. On the rear end it would be the bigger block under the leaf springs, and the front end just those plastic polymer and preload strut spacer in the front.

 

Mine does it around 80-90 accelerating hard only

Edited by Amuro
Posted

I had the same issue and it ended up being my drive line angle was off, I also have a 2'' leveling kit. They put shims in the rear with the larger end facing the front of the truck and shimmed the transfer case up. What was happening was under acceleration while moving the truck that fast the engine was applying a lot of torque to the rear end which twists the rear pinion upward and makes the drive shaft angle off. Mine would only do it when i was traveling 75mph or more and accelerated hard. The joints need to cancel one another out with torque applied to them. I also have the 6.2 engine with 373 gears, so that also applies more torque to the rear end.

Exact same issue and setup level kit rearend and all except I have the 5.3.

My issue came back after a short while. Did yours? Also the shim kit they put in mine are silver almost like a cast something.

Posted

Is there an in vehicle road test that can be done to check for out of balance drive shaft? Taking up to 75 and dropping in Neutral and coast down... Does that stop the shaft from spinning?

Posted

Is there an in vehicle road test that can be done to check for out of balance drive shaft? Taking up to 75 and dropping in Neutral and coast down... Does that stop the shaft from spinning?

No, the driveshaft is always spinning if the car is moving.

Posted

Is there an in vehicle road test that can be done to check for out of balance drive shaft? Taking up to 75 and dropping in Neutral and coast down... Does that stop the shaft from spinning?

That would not stop the driveshaft from spinning as the driveshaft is solidly attached to the rear axle, so when the wheels spin, the driveshaft does as well.

Posted

Thanks, I am going to go for some exploration on the driveshaft issue balance and runout issue.

 

Just to recap my vibrations:

 

a light constant vibration in steering wheel, multiple tires, Road Force and balancing never clears it up not speed dependent

 

Highway speeds 65 to 85, vibration subtle 65 to 72, 73 worse, anything above 76 feels like the rear is hopping

When getting on it from 40 to 80 not much vibration, vibrations return on deceleration

Highway speed vibration seems to move from front to back and back to front when going up and down hills

Highway speed vibration seems more pronounced when going taking sweeping turns

Posted

Drive shaft will always spin like others have stated.

First thing I'll do is take out the drive shaft and get it inspected at a driveshaft shop that specialize in that type of work.

If that doesn't take care of the issue as I hope it does though, then the last step for me is to take off the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit and put the suspension back to factory and test drive it again, time consuming and redo the damn alignment again.

Posted

Funny, I was told by the dealer that I would have to pay them to balance my duratracs before they would move on to pooming at the driveshaft. I asked for a road force balance and they didnt know what that was.....

Posted

I feel that, I'm so disappointed I kinda wish I had gotten the Audi I was looking at. But I like trucks more

My exact situation, was looking at an Audi S3...pulled the trigger on the truck though. Dang!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...